In this video I bring you along the journey of swapping out the infamous ball joints on a Subaru Crosstrek. I didn't realize till this video was done that we'd all ready done one on Subaru ball joints. No worries thought, it is always good to have a refresher on removing the lower bolt. -Enjoy!
In this video I bring you through the process I use to replace exhaust manifolds on a Chevy 2500HD with the big 6.0. This is a pretty common job in our shop and is pretty much the same process for all GMC, Chevrolet trucks with V-8 LS engines. Broken bolts can be recessed or protruding and both are relatively easy to get out if you have the proper tools. come along as I get started on the passenger side fist. -Enjoy!
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Hey there, viewers welcome back to the self playing all channels got our 2015 subaru, it's the crosstrek, it's the big 2o and it needs front ball. Joints easy peasy folks get out the biscuits because we're going to be slopping up the gravy once the wheel is off. We'll take off the castle nut now you can take your time to take the cotter pin out, but we're not reusing anything. So we don't really care we're.

Gon na take the cotter pin out the old-fashioned way, beat a socket up on there, get the wrong side socket, get dinged on that's a 21. What is this thing? 19. yep appears to be we'll go get a black one before somebody gets mad at us. I should know better there's that one i'll go do the other side, so i'm gon na see if we can't pop the ball joint off, we could just pickle fork it if we wanted to so we're not really worried about destroying it.

At this point come on baby there she goes, and i just got ta give her a little whack that worked now she's cracked loose we'll use the old hockey stick push that to the side. We'll do the other side, and this is where life gets real. Folks. Do not under any circumstance break this bowl off in the spindle.

I tell my boy josh here all the time you break the bolt, i'm gon na punch you in the throat. That's exactly what i thought. I'm i'm a pretty nice guy, so use an old subaru catalytic converter. Heat shield would be my suggestion to you because they fit quite perfectly to protect.

The cv is what you want to protect. If you don't trust yourself or you don't have a suitable heat shield. Uh remove the cv. Axle from the front would be my next suggestion, trying to get some light where we can see so we're going to stick this through here make sure it's not touching the cv boot, because if your heat shield touches the cv boot all of a sudden, it just Becomes a conductor and not so much a shield, an insulator, i guess it would be, and then what you want to do is take your lower knuckle there and we want to turn it blood, red and very gingerly work.

This bolt, i can't see crap, that's a little better, make sure that you have your 14 mil socket that you probably aren't in love with, or at least one, that you can get warrantied easily and that's what we have here. We've got one from the mac man, so we'll give this back to him next week once we turn the end of it blue you'll notice, when you try to take this off, it's not going to want to cooperate heat shield in place, fire extinguisher, ready, torch at Hand and just let it rip now i find that sometimes it seizes up here on the straight shank portion of the bolt where it goes through and sometimes on, the threaded portion, usually i'll heat up one side or the other, give it a go. You're gon na want it just this side of liquid, so that's not quite as high as i normally take it, but we're going to see if that cracks it loose, be very careful. We got nothing folks.

This is a very delicate process. I don't care what you spray on it. It ain't gon na work unless it's oxygen, acetylene you spray it with that. It'll come loose, but just be cautious.
Folks, i've done a lot of subaru ball joints, so this is where you're gon na have to trust me. Here this one's not even really that rusty mother lover yeah, that's right baby once you feel you're cracking loose, you know you got it, but make dang sure that that it's actually turning on this side make sure you can see it with your own peepers like right. Now i can see that side turning all right and at this point grab your weakest impact. At least one you can put in wuss bag mode.

We're gon na give her some rattles. Can you guys see now you'd be real tempted to grab the big dog, but don't do that because you're just going to snap it off brush it with a little bit of acetylene yeah baby pull off our heat shield and i got ta slip it up past The uh cb boot here there you go now. You didn't hurt your boot uh. Let's set down the turtle shell here and now she comes so that's easy, easy peasy! Changing your ball joints on your subaru piece of cape.

As long as you have a torch, ooh a sock, so now that's done. All i can do is pop the ball joint out, bing bada boom. Now we'll see, i'm gon na have to move that. Give us some room move your tie, rod one way or the next.

That should give us enough room. We will get our subaru ball joint puller up on this joint thread that baby up on there. This is made by astro handy bit of kit right here folks, because getting the bolt out is step one and that's usually a mother lover, step two: that's a mother lover is getting the ball joint out of the hole out of the knuckle, not anymore, almost ripped. My finger off, but there that was easy, easy, easy, easy there thor! Okay, so there it is it yanks it right out! Huh! Look at that, because these things can be a son of a hoof because they get rusted in there, so stinking bad that freaking whack.

My finger, they don't have a warning on this thing that says: don't whack your finger like a ding dong and then the other cool part about the astro tool is, if you want, you can take the center of it here with a pair of pliers or your Fingers vamp pliers, not a sponsor uh, take that out she's threaded on that side i was at half 25 8 something same thread as your uh slide hammer. So if you wanted to, you could hook that on your slide, hammer screw it up on there, but why would you do that when you've got this bit of kit right here it is your classic astro whatever that number is 78 620. I think, can you guys read that probably not, but that's your subaru ball joint puller, quite inexpensive, but a handy, dandy tool. Let me tell you what we'll go, do it on the other side? I'll show you so, of course, over here.

I've already done all the heating and the swearing this side came off hard. So we thread that baby up on there get a few threads. Don't jam it down, don't be an animal. Oh, let me move this back, so you can see you want to see.
Then you break out thor or amber. It's all lined up like that. It's got pins that hold it from turning, don't let them hit your fingers like. I did ding dong little thor just places that thing there she is, you can see how crusty and nasty that was how much of a pain that would be to take out, but not no more you're.

Not that's not doing anything for me now. It is, then, you have to clean out the hole, so i just go up in with a little flap wheel. It doesn't take much to get the sides cleaned off. However, up in the very top we'll get a uh we'll get a chisel or something here and we'll knock out the rust you'll see a bunch of that fall out.

Bear with me hold on folks. I think we'll use the needle scaler he's old school and it leaks, so he needs a new air fitting on the end, but we'll go up in here and rattle out that crap yeah baby, i'm trying to plug the air hose into this thing, come on dewalt. There now she's got a clean hole. Well, not once you get past the used part, then it's pretty filthy, but let's uh shine that up.

Let's have a look: oh fancy. Okay, that should be good. So now the new ball joints when we get ready to put it in it should slip in easy piece. Now i got these from napper they're made by ctr ctr ball joints, not a sponsor made in korea, um knapper's just now, starting to get some ctr stuff which i've used in the past, and i've had good success with and they're priced quite reasonable.

So i chose these over the napper chassis products because they come in a bag folks, but i think they make a lot of oem stuff too yeah. That's really - and this should in theory, doesn't fit what a piece of junk no i'm just kidding. I do have to clean it out some more. There is still some junk in there, but once we get her just right, we should be able to just very lightly love tap that up in there we're going to never seize the snot out of it, and then we should be good to go.

I guess avoid the temptation of wanting to spread this apart right here. It's really easy for us to want to just smash a chisel or something in there spread that apart it can make putting the bolt in a son of a mother. You take the chance of you, know, smashing the edge over so try to try to avoid that. In my opinion, all right we got it cleaned up pretty good.

I'm gon na use a little, never seas, but there's no freaking brush on it. I'm gon na go ahead and use some never seas. Try this again, hey! Look! This one has a brush we're gon na slobber it right up in there. Get it good folks, don't miss anything.

Chances are you'll, never be doing the ball joints again anyways, but trying to make life easy for the next guy, the guy at the picking pole, i like to say when he finds this little gem get that lined up should have josh over here. Helping me i'm going to stick a socket on here. We shouldn't have to whale the crap out of it all right, i'm just being silly at that point. Let's go find the bolt make sure you clean your bolts up, i know roger or whatever the name of your wire wheel is and then we're gon na code with never seas.
Now it's gon na go against everything that service data probably tells you to do, but i live in the real world. Folks, that's some engineers fantasyland, if you ever want to get that thing back out with a little bit of hope, put some never seas on now. Make darn sure you start that by hand, don't go just smashing her down in there with the ugga duggan gun feels like it started, we'll get a ratchet that way. We can force it in.

Just kidding, don't go forcing it in. You should be able to see it yeah we see here coming through. So once that's started, you don't have to worry about tightening it down right now. We just want to make darn sure started and then we'll stick the ball joint in then we'll get it all.

Torqued in and whatnot now i will say some of you in the future are watching this video, because you're doing your subaru ball joints and either a you got the bolt out and you don't know how to get the joint out or b you snap, the bolt Off and you're wondering what enough you're gon na do. Well, let me tell you: you: can a go to the junkyard, get a new good new knuckle start over okay, heater up blood red, get it out b, drill it try to easy out. It see take out what i would do. Usually they snap off right here in the middle i'd, stick a big old nut on here fry that sucker on there with a welder, try to pull it out.

This way that might work for you d, drill it straight through nice and straight and then nut and bolt seen that a lot come through. I don't know if those are all viable options or what i'm supposed to tell you. What you should do is go to the dealer, buy a brand new knuckle new bolt new ball joint new wheel bearing and do it that way, that's the appropriate way, but i just give you options of things. I've seen come in on other cars, but if you're here being proactive, wondering if you should do your ball joint job or not, which hopefully you're looking before before you get started, we'll tighten that down and then you've learned a lesson like hey.

That bull is the son of a mother. Unless you live in florida or somewhere else, it's actually york. So now we're gon na line that up. Let me get the hockey puck stick, not a puck! Now i'll go ripping your brand new boot, oh yeah, pink! What are we doing? What are we doing here? Fella get that kind of lined up.

We have a wheel, turned quite a ways right now, so we're going to turn our wheel in oh right. Nice went in there right nice and then these don't come with cotter pins. They use a lock nut nylock to be specific, so we'll snug that up, but while we have it held in there now we can get the torque spec and you can tighten up your ball joint here, while it's being held still click click and then we'll get The torque spec on this baby get that snugged up and there you have it folks, one ctr ball joint completely installed. Now a lot of you are saying: why is that boot all crooked there mick girl? I don't even know if that's how you talk but uh, the suspension is what we call full droop right now, uh for your jeep, guys uh.
When we sit at ride height, that boot will be nice and straight they're, a non-greasable joint. But you can see everything looks hunky-dory. You can also see the giant crack in the control arm because somebody's gon na write a comment about that. I never see these cracks, but it's inevitable.

It's going to be in the comment section. Did you see the broken frame? It was snapped in half now all we have to do is go over here. Do the same thing. On this side, we already got this bowl, that's the one we started on that one's out, ready to go, and, like i say it's pretty easy.

Providing you've got this tool from the astro pretty inexpensive, um move this thing out of the way we got this tool from the astro tools, don't even know the part number on it or what it's for, but they uh. We got that baby worked good for what we had to do. We got that from the astro we got thor from the astro. We got the needle scaler from the yard sale.

I believe that's where it came from. I know what brand that one is it's old old old. I can't mind it came over on an old wooden ship, uh sprayer from napper, not a sponsor a few sockets pretty easy folks, and that folks is that so not too bad. Putting the lower ball joints in your subaru.

Now they've used this style forever. I don't know what years, but for a long time, and that bolt that crossbolt that holds them in is always a mother lover to get out, and it's always the hardest thing for folks to do now. Getting the ball joint out of the knuckles. The second hardest thing to do: i'd like to hear your methods what you do down there in the comments section uh to get them out.

Do you spray them with some panther pee? Do you spray them with auction? Is settling? Do you just buy a whole new knuckle from subaru? What do you do while you're down there subscribe the insti, the facebook and just remember viewers? If i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching hey.

By EricO

10 thoughts on “Subaru Crosstrek: Ball Joints”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David G says:

    Wonder why the pinch bolts are so difficult on a Subaru? Or why an issue to open the pinch gap? Over here in the rainy, rusty UK they undo fairly easily on a Corsa. You have to grind off the rivets to get the ball joint off, but no need for acetylene or special ball joint removal tools, just some Plusgas and a splitter!

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stefan D says:

    Some things my real world engineering tutor told us:
    1) keep your nuts oiled;
    2) always keep your mating surfaces lubricated and whenever possible rub them together;
    3) cleanliness is more important than tightness.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars xamot80 says:

    Bringing back drive way nightmares of working on 97 subaru- ball joints , wheel bearings, endless trans and headgasket problems. And why got a toyota and never ever owning a subaru ever again.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars riley bell says:

    I've always done it that you get the crossbolt out , bit of propane torch and some percussive and 6 foot snipe , then jump, wedge on the lca till it pops from the knuckle then block and bash it from the lca , works every time for me

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ChallengerDood says:

    On my personal Subaru, I snapped the bolt off, drilled it out (threads and all) with a quarter inch drill bit and installed a new grade 8 nut and through bolt. Far easier to remove in the future, and I don’t see how it’s mechanically different than OEM. The torque spec isn’t even very much, maybe 50 ft lbs.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steve McRichards says:

    I liked your methods of heating up the bolt and knuckle. Really important to heat the bolt through as well.
    If you can focus the heat on the snout of the bolt (not the head) which will heat through the entirety of the bolt in a couple of minutes or less then heat up the knuckle surrounding and then go back and forth like you did tightening and loosening the bolt make sure you can see the snout of the bolt moving before trying to speed racer that thing out with the power tools.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BreadAndGatorade says:

    When I screwed up in the past I bought a junk yard knuckle. Make sure the wheel speed sensor (depending on car) is intact and not cut off/broken/etc. Also make sure the junk car did not suffer an impact on the side you are buying the knuckle.
    Very cheap and viable option to remedy a mistake.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars A Google User says:

    I broke both of these off on my 15 year old forester a few years ago. I also have a 2016 crosstrek so I checked if it had the same style. Took them out and added antiseize and put them back. Hopefully I'll thank myself in 5 years.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars R. B.L. says:

    click-click yup i heard that click, so it is good. one ugha-dugha is good on a sooby.
    Great vid, thanks for this, just getting ready to do an '08 (yeah 13 years in the salt, so should be no issue to remove …not!) now at least i have a plan.
    plan the work, work the plan – were learning Mr. O (keep them coming!)

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Grundy812 says:

    LOVE YOUR WORK…And your humor! I lived most of my life in the salt belt, New Hampshire. Worked a number of shops and the first wench you went for was always the torch. Got so I could remove a nut without ever messing up the bolt.

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