In this video we have a look at a customers vehicle that has no blower motor. It doesn't take long to find out there is more to the story than just a failed blower resistor. -Enjoy!
Want to tear apart the bad motor!? Shhhhhh 🤫
Bonus Footage: https://youtu.be/Gi5vKzpNNr8
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We've got the 2010, it says nissan cx, tara, off-road edition. It's got the chubby rubber uh customer complaint is uh, no blower motor at all. No high, no low, no, nothing! Let me hop in here folks, so that seems work. I can hear that stuff moving.

I can hear that stuff moving, so it doesn't seem like the hvac is unresponsive. It simply seems that there's no blower motor where's that baby live on this little guy ouch. Ah, let's see move some of the rona equipment here, i'm getting the rona, and what do we got? Oh right up in there? Well, that's easy! Let's go get a test light. What do we have here? Well, let's see got the key on we've: got it cranked up on high, let's give it the old fawns first they'll find a rally yeah, it works better in the movies.

I guess let me get a good ground here. I like to go off the door. Uh latches, they are usually shiny and grounded well and then see if we can't stupid nissan. Get this thing out is that thing got to come out first or no looks like it's one of those deals.

Maybe not there look at them. Look at that potatoes! Oh, we got a power, we got a ground, negative ghost rider yeah, we just got power no ground, so the ground is probably done through. The resistor would be my guess, which looks like that's probably this thing over here well, which one's the power. Okay, white with green is power.

The blue is the grounder, but usually when your resistor dies. Typically, you still have high speed because usually that doesn't run through it, but what the heck do i know looks like in this case. It possibly does that's interesting uh. What's interesting is we've got a power that looks like a power, probably the same color as what's at the mortar black is probably the ground.

This looks like one of them: fancier computer controlled, bear ones there. Let's see that part growing there whammo we got power in the ground, so we got a white with a green stripe as the power the black is the ground. The blue, i assume, is the same one that comes out to here. You know what i'm saying and then we've got a small wire, a light green, that's probably like a duty cycle control from the head unit.

Let me pull this get down here. This is just a wire retainer here. Um, we're gon na have to look at a so typically you'll see a setup like this on a uh automatic hvac one. You know what i mean one with the auto button.

Usually you don't see it on the on your classic high medium low style. So i just want to slit this a little bit because we're going to get in here, so i just want to open it up just a smidge to provide us with some room for probage, we'll trim that off. So it looks normal. So that would be my guess so, looking at this, i'm going to assume power and ground, the big blue is going to be the control coming out of the blower resistor.

You know to the motor to control the motor and then that little wire is probably duty cycle controlled uh. Let's go grab our little u-scope uh. That would probably be the fastest way to tell well actually the fast way to tell me just look it up um, but we'll give it the old, poke and hope see what happens. The old classic pokemon only works in certain situations, so we'll let this little guy fire up here.
What do we have two volts per division, probably close enough. I'm gon na grab us a ground and then we're gon na give it a classic front probe here. Just very gingerly um not seeing any action here of any sort make sure we got a good ground when we stick on 12 volts. Yet we do i'm gon na go back into.

Maybe it's got to be plugged in it might have to be plugged in. I doubt it, but maybe we'll do it in place, get that from the back side, keep it tab there. We go now we're cooking. Well, let me i got ta move some stuff here.

Folks, let's see we have you oriented correctly now: okay, we do so. Let's uh so right now with a plug. Oh our battery's, almost there we're gon na hustle right now plugged in. We are probably how many volts two volts per division: where's our zero.

So we're two four. It looks like five volts uh. So, let's go through. Let's change our scale here, one two: three, four: five yeah we're just a just our whisker over the five volt setting here for zero all the way at the bottom.

There now we can see. Sometimes i cheese a little just move our trigger up, see where we're at yeah, so we're at uh, actually just a blonde one under five. So, let's move that back down we're gon na go here, go to our monitors and we'll select duty cycle our duty because right now our blowers on high. So let's kick her back a peg.

But oh, let's see that's off that's low speed! Next one up! Next, one up next one up next next: next, you see our duty cycle over there. There you go. Can you guys see so look in the upper left-hand corner? That's our duty! That's full beans, and then i'm gon na bring her down progressively one notch. At a time, oh look at that.

Oh come on, i'm so childish, let's see, and then you just keep bringing her back. This thing's got a lot of clicks on it. It doesn't just have high medium low, so that's probably why it uses the style controller. So that's off and then, like i said you progressively bring it up, the duty cycle gets higher.

You can see it in the waveform until we hit full beams, see what i'm saying so that was easy. We didn't even need a uh whatever it is. You know wiring diagram, i suppose they call them so here we go we're just screwing off at this point, so there's off low and then, as you bring it up to high all right, that's it he's a blue resistor. What's screwing around so a lot of these systems are kind of the same folks when you're looking at blow resistors, and you see that you only have a couple wires.

That's typically how they're controlled, usually a duty cycle control uh, at least in my small world of cars that i work on. I want to put this baby on the charger uh. So, let's see if we can get a blower resistor now there is the ultimate question, the meaning of life - we're not going to get that deep. But the ultimate question is why the blow resistor fail lots of reasons.
A it's older than just kind of crapped. Out or b, the blower motor itself draws too much current c that current spec isn't published so you're just guessing uh. You either get a new blower motor. You can compare that or you put a resistor in it and if that one should bed in like a week, you tell your customers, like hey, well i'll, warranty that out, but we should put a motor in it.

That's typically how it goes if uh, every mechanic is being honest, uh or c or d forget what letter we're on you could have poor airflow through the hvac unit overheating the resistor, causing it to burn out lots of options, but first we're going to start with The resistor itself, or, as i like to call it a piece of resistance, we have got the blower resistor coming. I do want to look. I did order a cabin filter. Also.

I assume this has one. I was looking at service data, while i was waiting for the parts fell out to pick up the phone now she's equipped with the advanced airbags, and it says that it does have one so we're gon na have a little look-see unhook. The old cable here and survey says usually nissans are a disaster. They put their cabin filters in the stupidest locations this one, oh baby, this one doesn't look as horrible.

Some nissans you got to crumple it right up into a little ball. You stick it through a hole about that big and then let it open up. I i kid you not folks, the guy who invented that nissan you guys working in shops, know what i'm talking about uh. Let's see, can we do this without dropping a ton of garbage down into the blower motor? She looks like a two-piecer.

Let's even get all this sucker come on. Oh man, she loaded it's all gon na go in that blower motor. I hate these ones that are right smack on top of the blower motor, because you got no choice. We got no choice though.

Well, it's not too bad, not too bad, so she is slightly dirty stuck that one down there now there's number two: a lot of heavy breathing for changing a blower motor uh can't be built there here. We're gon na give that one a slide to the side. Very gingerly, we don't want to drop all the stuff off it because she's loaded up too there. She is folks, it's got a little bit of stuff in it completely plugged.

Now you can still shine a light through it old school style, right huh, it's good tap! It off put it back in, but you can have a little look. She's filthy is that the cause of the burned up blow resistor? Probably not. It sounds good, though, when you're selling it does, it need to be done. Yeah, it needs to be done, obviously, probably have to get up in there with a blow nozzle and give that a little twirl yeah.
It's got a great over top of it, but still you get crap that falls down in there. Anyhow, we'll wait for the parts store to show up: it's not an apple, they didn't have any, nor could they get any for today. That was disappointing. One thing i did notice, as i mentioned this, was unusual to have this style blower resistor on a non-climate controlled system when i looked it up through napper, they showed, with or without climate control, with or without automatic climate control, and this system takes the blower resistor For the one with automatic climate control, even though it does not have auto climate control and you're like well eric, oh somebody put the wrong one in well.

That's what i said to in my head to myself, so i called nissan: got the oem number crossed it to double check and then actually had the nissan guy get the one he had and he said no, it's got big cooling fins on it, so boom uh. So that's that and they both take the same connector, so it potentially uh could fool you. So anyhow, let's get a screwdriver here, the wearer tool kit with belt clip for the mechanic with the on-the-go lifestyle, we'll use our classic wear kit. If we use it too much we'll wear it out, classic wear a joke kind of cheesy.

I know i think they're 7 mil of course, they're not hopefully they're 5.5. That's what they look like 5.5 mm, who came up with that size, anyways huh who's. That guy tried to make a proprietary size then it failed. I can just see him in the meeting they're at the meeting and they're, like all these people are taking apart our cars.

The guys, like i know, let's make a size that they don't have not five, not a six, how about a 5.5? I don't know if that's exactly how it went down. Yeah man long-winded little guys ain't. They, i don't even know if you guys, can see. Probably can't that's: okay, not more channel, not how to make a video channel there.

She is baby, oh you guys can't see. Can you i'm just kidding? I thought you could, but so there she is made in usa. That's got some numbers on it, but yeah there's his folks. That's that now he's going for the new one.

It looks like the og. Give you a little better look, see these here and truth be told this could be causing some of the problem. You know if that resists are overheated uh, because the resistors are very dependent on airflow through the dash, and you can see she's plugged pretty tight. You know regardless, if you could shine the light through it.

You know she's pretty cruddy, so are they original? I see they're, probably nissan ones. Nobody ever changes these things, there's the arrow. We got ta slip this baby in and now kind of push it to the side, so make sure they got pushed all the way over there. You probably can't see, but that's okay.

This is where you got trust me folks, and then this one goes. I think chevrolet way back in the day when they first came out in the silverados, i think they had a uh. A double donger filter set up. I remember correctly, could be wrong.
Put this baby back on there, there's that sealed up point: oh there's our new resistor and that should fit right back up in the hole get the old screws here, put the screws right to it, kind of in an awkward position, and, let's see where are ya, We'll get one to hold, it almost got it in there we go yeah baby. Okay, then we got ta get the last one in which i don't think we can get with screwdriver handle because it was too long. Always my problem: let's see there, we go. Oh snug that one up snug that one up we'll plug it up make sure you trim off.

If you cut this back a little bit trim it off. So so you don't look like a scumbag click that in there that goes back up in the little slot. This thing, when you put this thing back on there, a little retainer kind of a neat idea, there's that now before we plug this in we're gon na see if it lights up a light, we'll stick our test light, which is the four amp variety right there. Let me see if i can prop it up on something, so you guys can see.

So we can all see, look at that and we're off right now and that's on full blast and it's going back off. Let's see here, she thinks that she's, one of them smart modules. So there's one click, two click, three, four: five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten close your eyes. It's like the sun and then back off wow.

Now that we've melted our retinas, we should be able to plug it up. Let's see if the blower works, oh sugar, you know what you know what your mother lovers. You know why that burned up. I think this is junk um.

We don't want to melt it. We don't want this one to go nuclear, let's unplug this thing again, let's make sure our resistor is still good cause. I should have just kicked that blower motor on, but you know what i think she's he's lacking on this. Let's make sure this thing's still good.

All right that baby's still good all right. That's good! Blower motors junk! Let's see oh yeah, she junk. I just heard it go chunk, chunk, hey! That's something! That's something all right! That thing's still good! I just wan na make sure we're not burning up our resistor. So before we get stupid here, wow i feel like a jerk hole.

Let's take this out because she is she doing. We got ta get to the one screw. So we got ta pull this little thing out right here. I think all right folks, i got ta.

Come clean, i'll, be honest with you. Why did i stick a test light on there initially? Well because, typically, when you go in there with the blow nozzle and you're blowing out the junk, usually you hear the old whirly gig in here whipping around and i didn't so my belly. I told myself it's itself. You didn't hear that whizzing around maybe she's seized up and then, when i was off camera waiting on the parts fixed, a few other cars, i thought nah that can't be.
I just didn't hear it. Oh yeah, she threw a rod, should have went with my freaking gut. I knew i didn't hear it. Twirling son of a whoo awesome just like that folks, the brand new one is here and we'll find out which way it goes in.

Probably the plug facing this way would be helpful, made in tijuana says, get that baby started get the old ratchet. Here i want to go too much with it. Yes get that one back! It's there, nice thing about plastic. You don't even need them straight baby.

You just need them started. That's not true! Folks, do a good job. Do it like you were working for your mother unless you don't, like your mother, get that one there that was all torqued to spec, okay, third time's, the charm. Folks, let's get the key back on.

Are you ready three, two one? Oh, we got a whistler sounds like she got a turbo man wow, that's cool all right folks. So that's that blow resistor blower motor in fixed done cabin air filter. So she's got good air flow and uh. You know it's got all its gears.

Now. Everything seems to work well, guys should be happy, but i'd be willing to bet that that blower motor was making some noise before it all gave up. The ghost so keep an eye on your blower motor or an ear. Rather, if you hear it, making some funky noise check it out a couple things that could be causing it.

You know seized up bearings like in this case or brushes that are completely shot and getting ground up in there or some junk that just fell from the cabin air filter and got in there is getting all jiggly with it. So anyhow, let me guys juggle on down to that comment section. The questions, the comments, the concerns we're down there subscribe, find us on the institute find us on the facebook if you're over 60 and just remember beers. If i can do it, you can do it.

Thanks for watching you.

By EricO

16 thoughts on “Nissan xterra: blower motor not working”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael wears says:

    You were talking about smelling like cologne. In my day we always wanted to smell our best, so we would put After shave like Aqua Velva, old Spice or the such down our defroster vent. Ya know when we picked up ole loverly Lulu Leatherhole!! Ya know be prepared or is that repaired!!

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars laserhawk64 says:

    I concur with JK Brown below — that "resistor" is going to be a transistor circuit at least… wouldn't be surprised to see it as either an R-C tank circuit (resistor and capacitor in parallel) or an old-style 555 with its two resistors and a cap, plus a power MOSFET of some fairly beefy spec. You really don't need a 555's precision for a blower, if it were me and I was cost-engineering… knob's a potentiometer, put a cap across it, that's your R-C tank… the "resistor" pack would have a single-gate version of the venerable 74HC14 Schottky hex inverter chip driving a MOSFET like I mentioned, plus a Zener and a pulldown resistor to eliminate the extra +5v supply lead since everything on a car is unregulated nominal 12vDC, tolerance being 9.0v through 14.5v (14.2v is charging voltage IIRC). However, since there's detents on that knob (that's how it feels like it's 'stepping') I bet they've gone the potentially even cheaper route of a rotary encoder with a peg on the knob working as a stop, and something like the now-famous Padauk three cent microcontroller driving that MOSFET. You don't get detents on a potentiometer!

    BTW if you want a "proprietary screw" sort of thing… study modern Apple systems. (Warning, rant incoming. Sorry in advance.)

    I'm a computer guy and an electronics guy — learned both in the 90s at the same time, and I work both on and with computers (just a hobby, sadly I'm too life-incoherent for an actual job…) through the lens of electronics. There is exactly ONE brand I can name off the cuff, one*, where their all-in-one desktops have to be literally cut open and if you're not insanely stupid careful and know what you're doing already you'll wreck the screen going in (which is universally about half the value of the complete system!) — and you have to replace what you cut through on your way back out or it literally can't vent and will basically Crock Pot slow cook itself inside. There's *one brand where I need a freaking heat gun to open their laptops and a proprietary weird-as-heck screwdriver set once inside… a screwdriver set that I will use with specifically that one manufacturer ever and nobody else's systems. There's one manufacturer that designs the smartphones they also make to purposefully have some screws exactly a tenth of a millimeter longer than the others — a difference absolutely imperceptible to the unaided human eye — and there are PCB traces (wires in the PCBs) routed under the screw holes inside those things so that if you put the wrong screws in the wrong holes, that extra 0.1mm will cut those traces and hardware brick your phone.

    This company doesn't even fix their own systems, they just ship you a new one and they don't care if you have good backups or not — your priceless photos of your grandkids aren't their problem… and they will charge you what they feel like and they will not give two fat s***s about whether or not you like it no matter how much Ex-Lax you pump them full of and for how long. You'll find a way to pay it, they know you will. That's how you get iPhones that cost less than $200 to produce being sold at retail for $1200 a pop.

    Must be nice to be Tim Cook. The sort of companies they contract with in China BTW are the ones with "suicide nets" on the multi-story buildings. It's in the news, from reputable sources. Don't ask me, ask Google, it's out there, you just gotta look… or, don't. But I'm not fixing your cratered, cracked iCrap. Go buy a new one, you can afford it and I just can't make myself care that much if you want to support That Rotten Fruit Company.

    My own stepmother has a Macbook Air with a dead battery and when she asked me, that's what I told her. Bless her heart, she's a fool, she's got some local guy who's talked her into letting him at it. I wonder what she'll say when she sees the bill? They don't make it easy, lads. Ask the expert — Louis Rossman recently moved, I hear, but he's made a living for longer than I care to think about with his little Midtown Manhattan repair shop, un-Humpty-Dumptying every curbstomped iDevice on Wall Street, and bless him and his soul for it. He must have the sort of patience that would turn Mother Theresa green with envy. Glad there's someone out there like that… I ain't got it and I think it shows.

    But if you are the sort to take that particular variety of "some people just want to watch the world burn" to the sort of levels that earn you worship in the halls of both r/madlads and r/bossfight at the same time… Apple Comma Incorporated is your ultimate case study to start with… and may whatever lies beyond us have mercy on your soul.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars jo300hn says:

    People who present their cars like this to a third party for any kind of work amaze me.
    Probably don't even wear fresh undies when they go on a date with a good chance of getting a bonk.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Frank Van Leeuwen says:

    The French and Itailan scheisse use the same filters.
    And as you say …you need an arm that can bend at 5 places.
    By the way " scheisse " is the german word for doodoo…🤔😁

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Allen Stautz says:

    Please direct me to where I can order a good set of probing leads as you do, Eric…With a great selection of probe ends to both back probe/front probe small/large terminals in connector plugs….Now on these small pins I use different sizes of sewing pins or hemming pins…need something in a good kit as you use…can you direct me to a
    'Good kit selection ' to order??
    I ordered one kit and wasted my money, sent it back cuz was junk.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dan Lemke says:

    Some of those resisters are big bucks. That did not look like a resister. While I woulda checked motor first with 12v, I like the way you wring out a system and actually find the issue. Most of us if they are honest, would've loaded the cannon on this one. First time I changed the cabin filter in a Chevy, I thought I got a two pack of filters and had a spare… Yes, I really did.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tom Oakhill says:

    Mechanics have it so easy these days. I spent Sept 1970-May 1974 in the Oldsmobile final assembly plant in Lansing Michigan. It was a hoot watching my co-workers assembling the dash. It was face down on a special support, and they had free access to everything from any direction. To assemble the dash they use custom-made tools to snake wires, and cables through the rats nest. Thus, even if your mechanic pulled the dash completely out of the car, they would never ever be able to complete some repairs without those special tools. I will bet only the dealers had access to those special tools. But I don't know.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars mark H says:

    Ever have a "my fan is noisy" complaint that turns out to be the debris the mouse dropped in the fan after it chewed through the cabin filter? Also, occasionally the dead mouse as well. But those are usually, "my car stinks when I turn the fan on"!

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars D Davis says:

    I enjoy watching you man, you take pride in your work which is ver respectable with how many bad and shady machanics there is and on top of that you crack me up with the dad jokes and mechanic jokes all around good people and run a great shop. Keep up the great work and positive attitude. I just did the blower motor in my 97 silverAdo.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars D G says:

    Sorry, being a bit of a 'ding dong' here, but can someone explain what told Eric the resistor was fried? The scope seemed to show the duty cycle was working fine? What did I miss?

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robert Hemmerly says:

    i was worried when you dident check the blower motor before you sold the job ..been there done that and still do from time to time glad to see even you make mistakes i have been doing this for well over 30 years and not to blow smoke up your ass but you seem to be a great honest technician and business owner ..count your blessings (and i am sure you do ) with that awesome family you have

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Sharting Khumbubbles says:

    i CANT BELIEVE you didnt torque those 5.5 mm screws to factory spec . those poor people are going to be driving down the road one day and get an " OOPS upside yer head " i said oops upside yer head …… i'm astonished !!!!

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars windage says:

    why not put 12v to the blower to test function early on?…find us on the FB if you're over 60? I am offended!…I turn 65 this coming March..still using the SnapOn top box I bought off the 'rape van' in 1974 blahaha

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Neal Rehm says:

    Eric, last winter my heat quit working. This was on my 2005 F-150. It had over 300 thousand miles on it. Da… I pulled out the blower motor, it was dirty, I hooked it up to a 7 AHR battery and it turned on. But it didn’t spin super easy by hand, again way too many miles on it. This truck has the automatic temperature control. So I bought a new resister, very expensive, put it all back together and it still didn’t work. I then took the blower motor back out and after testing I realized that motor had dead spots, Ah ha! So new motor new resister and it still didn’t work! Running out of ideas I plugged in the old resister and the system worked super! NAPA resister was no good and motor no good.
    Moral is motor’s only last so long. Plus no returns on electoral parts.

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars nokoman85 says:

    Hey Eric O, been watching your channel now for a year…thanks for sharing your videos! I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade and a DIY auto mechanic on the weekends. You've taught me some tricks that have made the job easier…even on the jets that I work on. I also live in the rust belt, Minnesota, and my next investment is going to be a torch.
    Looking forward to getting my SMA hoodie. I will wear it with pride in my hangar.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rob Relf says:

    I'm a little disappointed this time, you're usually so logical and precise. I agree with thumping on the motor as it often shows up worn out brushes and condemns the motor. Checking for power and ground, good. It bugged me that you continued to refer to the "resistor" when it is clearly a power transistor and not a resistor at all. Once you had unplugged the transistor it is a simple matter to jump the blue wire to the large ground wire in the same connector to check for motor operation, this tests the entire load side of the circuit. This is a good time to repeat thumping on the motor as you know it should be running full speed at this point. No running means worn out brushes (high resistance or open across the motor connector pins) or armature stuck (low resistance but motor not spinning). Your testing of the duty cycle confirmed the operation of the control side of the circuit and at that point you have the whole picture of what needs replacing. As a Honda tech I replaced plenty of transistors that had spontaneously failed with no apparent cause. Not trolling here, I love you and your channel!

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