Ah where's the off there's the off with the wet one out there: engine lights on 2014., wait a minute, hey there viewers and welcome back to the south main auto channel sitting inside the 2014 nissan. It's a sentra lots of lights on uh engine light, tpms, abs stability, i step on the gas and it just wants to stall. It's not doing anything uh. Looking over here on the passenger side floor, it's had one of these things and it's had one of these things uh.

So we have a throttle pedal and we have a throttle body and we still got no go and we got a snap-on knife. I don't know what that tells us. It tells us likely not a bad throttle body and likely not a bad accelerator pedal uh. Let's get it inside here because it can't work out in the rain and um see what codes are in it see what we can do to fix it, we're in we're hooked up uh.

Well, i see lots of aftermarket gizmos on this car lots of echo. We got a four cigarette, lighter extension pack over here, with lots of buttons aftermarket radios, aftermarket lights, aftermarket cameras - i don't know if that's do anything with it, but something keep in mind: lots of codes. Every module has codes in it, except for a couple we'll go see what the report says: electronic throttle, control function, circuit, bank, one, etc, mot pwr bank, so probably electronic throttle control motor power bank, one isc - i don't know what that is. I don't know if it's idle speed control, so 507, more likely uh has some abs codes, some airbag codes, some com codes, but these are all passed.

It's the only current codes for low pressure, current code for sunlight sensor, uh. At some point it looks like it had some canned communication codes and then currently has a problem with the right front sensor for the abs, their customers main concern was the fact that the throttle doesn't work. Uh, i'm going to save this we're going to clear the codes out, we're going to start it uh see if these ones come back, this 2100 and the p2101, and if they do we'll track those down and see what in the thunder is going on with it. After clearing the codes firing, the car back up immediately the engine light came on i'll show you you step on the throttle here.

That's all the way to the floor. That's 2. 000 rpms! Let off it, goes back to uh high idle. So it's idle idling.

1400. Rpms, so that's pretty much all you can do right there 1400 to maybe 2100 somewheres in there so uh and it sets those codes again, a p2101 and a p2100. So let's look at oh radar. Detector is going off.

Oh and it's mrs oh uh. Oh it's! Detecting her uh we're gon na look at i'm gon na look at a little bit of live data. I'm gon na unplug some of this garbage. That's the unplugged unplugged unplug unplug unplug everything's unplugged, we're gon na look at some live data and then we're going to look at service data to see what it takes to generate those codes and then we'll take it from there.

It's kind of scanning through data. I see these data pits here are the only ones i kind of find related to the throttle. So we can see down here at the bottom, our accelerator, so that's wide open throttle and i'm starting to back off the throttle there. So it seems to see the accelerator pedal, which is good um.

I see the throttle position sensor. Obviously that's you know barely moving those two there all right, so that makes sense to us. Uh the throttle closed switch. You know clearly works one.

It has to be concerned a little bit this throttle relay. I don't know what this is, but its status has been just kind of stuck on off so uh. Now we know a little bit uh. Let's look up code set criteria, see what's going on with the circuit, so we identify it and um see what we need to do to test it.

Looking up uh service data here - and i see that nissan actually has a service bolted on this for the 14 centra the b17, that's exactly what we have uh crank, no starter engine starts with no throttle response and electronic throttle control related dtcs and it matches our Description perfectly um engine will start uh, no throttle response, one or both of these codes are found, and it lists the two codes, and it says action you know, for this problem is to just replace the ipdm, so the fusebox intelligent power distribution module with one of The parts listed below so that's kind of interesting uh, no testing, no nothing. They just tell you to shotgun uh this new ipdm at it. So that's kind of interesting, obviously we're not gon na do that. Unless our testing you know, leads us in that direction.

So i'm going to look up the in the service manual. What the you know the process is what the pcm is looking for. You know what circuit it's looking at and if we determine well yeah, there's a problem with ipdm perfect in that case, we'll replace it code set criteria for the p2100 electronic throttle control motor power bank. One throttle actuator a control motor circuit, open.

It says uh the dtc detection condition, so what what the ecm is looking for - and this is important, ecm detects - a voltage of power source for throttle control motor is excessively low, so essentially, an open circuit possible causes harness or connectors throttle control. Motor relay circuit is open or throttle control, motor relay problem uh. I think we need a diagram. I'm gon na look through the engineering trouble tree or diagnostic process that they want you to approach, sometimes there's some good information in there, not always, but sometimes i'm going to read through that and then i'm going to find us a diagram because see, and so this Is some of the good information might be like connectors terminal numbers, uh stuff like that, so good, good things to know read through this? Sometimes they can send you really on a rabbit trail but i'll glance through it see if there's some good information for us and then we'll um we'll take it from there.

I always feel like. I need a nap after lunch uh. I got a diagram here for us. Well, i got done doing that.

The throttle control motor relay this little guy right here that lives in the ipdm. I assume from what we read with code, set criteria that the pcm is not seeing this guy turn on uh. So we have two wires coming out of that we got power that feeds it feeds the control side and the load side. It's this fuse 54 15 amp hut at all times we're going to check that out both of those wires come down and go to the ecm.

One is the control that turns it on and the other is the one that receives the load uh and that must be the ecm. From that point, can you know output the power to the throttle body, so i think it was number 21 yeah so throttle control. Motor relay goes number 21. and then throttle control motor power supply pin number two.

So what i think we need to do find the epdm or ipdm find fuse 54 make sure it has power and then, at that point we're going to go, see fuse 54 yep. We'll make sure that has part of that point. If we have power there, which i assume we do we're going to go to the ecm, which looks like somebody's already been here right, there uh, i assume that's going to be our connector, we'll double check, because i see the tape's already cut back. This did come from another shop, as you can tell, because, with everything being broken removed, that's usually a sign.

It came from another shop, everything's f'ed up as usual, and then this is the ipdm which is already yanked out perfect uh. Let's find our fuse go from there at a glance, there's not 54 fuses on the back of this thing, so i'm assuming our colored wiring diagram is wrong. The oem that i printed out does not show that fuse on it. That must be on a different diagram, but i see here there is a legend and it shows fuse 24 for electronic throttle control 15 amp, which conveniently is this one up at the top.

So we'll go off that right now, which has power on both sides. So that's good uh, never trust service data and never trust your wire diagrams. Don't trust anybody is what it comes down to. I think what we'll do you can trust me, though, folks trust me when i say that let's try this uh, let's try to find connector.

E43, so that's going to be on this part: distribution, module, uh, pin 11 and 16. we're going to be looking for a gray wire and a light blue wire. We're going to see if we have uh the relay. I assume it's probably internal um.

I don't know. I have to look to see if maybe it's one of those relays i it could be because this shows three three relays in the ipdm one. Two three and there are three there, four there's four relays so who knows um. Let's do that? Let's try to find where those wires see if we have control well, this happens to be super convenient.

It happens to be this connector right here. I assume, because i count over 10 and then 11 is gray and 30. 14 15 16 is light blue either we got a strong coincidence. We got the right, connector uh.

Theoretically, our light blue is the control side and i have to assume that this will not light a test light if the pcm is turning it on. Oh, i hear it clicking on a relay. Let me get a lower current test light here. Folks, that test light is too powerful.

It's got too much power and it's kicking on the relay. I can hear it clicking this one should not, but it still does we're going to have to use a stinking meter. I can hear that clicking on a relay so another way. We can do this, so that tells us a couple things here.

We might be onto something: let's go on the load side, so that's going to be this gray, wire and technically. If that relay is on it would light this up, but the relay is not on so it's not lighting this up. So, let's get a second test light again, we'll get another test light we'll turn the relay on so this i think i think we're on to something. I think this is telling us that the relay is not turning on perhaps the pcm's, not turning on, but um i'll, just kind of stick.

This test light there just sticking across that pin, let me get another teeth in here. I'm surprised this uh. I think this tesla is only 100 milliamps. I'm surprised it turns that relay on so then we're going to come in here i'm going to turn the relay on yep and you can see it turns that test light on.

So i'm curious at this point. If if we jumper that to a ground, do all do we all of a sudden restore throttle control? If we do that, that's going to tell us a lot. So, let's before we get into the theories of what that tells us, i'm just going to very gingerly probe that we will use a test light because that's the safest, safest thing we're all about safety. Let's start it up see if we give it a rev up tune up.

Well that sounds good. We can give it the old rev up tune up. Um do we know we know a if we were doing a diagnosis based off service bolton alone. We would have been wrong and embarrassed if we put a ipdm in it, because that would not have fixed it.

We also learned which side of the circuit the problem is actually on. So when we look at our relay, so our throttle control motor relay - we know from here out to the ecm, is good on the load side because we supplied, we turned the relay on manually and we could give it the the rev up tune up. We know that we have power going to both sides. We know this wire comes out.

Therefore, our problem lies on this wire right here. The light blue wire that comes all the way down goes to a connector f, whatever f50 and e46 goes to this connector and then out of there goes down, turns yellow, comes around and then goes back to the pcm. So what we need to know is is the pcm controlling this thing and the control signal is not making it to the ipdm. Does that make sense it will in a minute transmission control.

So this is the one we need to go to. We need to go to pit pin 21. if we ground that wire at pin 21 and that baby turns on well now you got problems. Lady now, the problem's in you know our magic box over here, which hopefully it's not uh.

Hopefully it's just a broken wire. We do have a connector here, so that can be suspect, but that's what we need to know next, in theory, when we make our test full-time power, we should have power on. We should have power coming all the way through the coil of the low side or the yeah. The low side of the relay the control side should have power coming all the way through all the way down all the way to pcm and just like when we did here when we touched it, you know, click click, click, click.

We should turn it on and off um, which is what the pcm does. You know has power coming through when, when the pcm grounds it it turns that relay on, and you know bob's your uncle, you can rev it up. So, let's find we could do this. A couple ways we could we could work our way back.

We could find this connector make it make it there um. I don't know where that connector is or being that the pcm is right here and likely it's this connector, because somebody's already ripped into it. If that's the case, then we'll just make our test right here, because that's going to be the easiest, so let's find connector f. 24 pin number 21: it's a yellow wire ground it.

If it doesn't turn that on, then you know for a fact: you got a broken wire fella. Oh, i think we're on the right track. Now folks uh, i got ta, say, pin out for this f24 it was the right connector, so the connector that was already opened up was the right one. So that's good! I took the plastic cover off it, so we could expose it.

Uh number 21 is supposed to be on this front row, oddly enough, oem, diagrams and stuff have them labeled. You know one through. You know whatever here one through 48, but when you look at this connector, it's like abcd uh for the four rows and then you know one through. You know whatever number for the other.

You know for like the x y axis, it's kind of weird. So there's no numbers on on the connector that are helpful, but uh looks like we're one, two, three, four, five, six from the right one, two, three four five six and it happens to be yellow. So that's good, we're at least on the right color. So, there's that there we're going to take and probe it see if we can't back probe it there like that.

Ah, let's just make sure we're on the right color, so number 17 should be to the right of it, and that should be l, which is what l means. Blue, that's blue and to the left is another yellow and then it's number 25 and number 25 is supposed to be yellow, so we're on the right one. So i'm going to turn the key on and in theory, when i turn the key on, we should be able to click that and hear that relay click if this wire is not broke from here to there. So, let's do that.

Let me turn the key on here. Folks, okay, the key is on folks kind of give a listen here, nothing, no clicking. So the other thing we can do uh because technically this should go to ground when you know kion, engine off or kion engine running that should go to ground so to make sure that the pcm has control we're going to take a test light hook to battery Positive or battery negative, maybe we just have a bad connection here. I tell you what, instead of trying to back probe this, let's just poke into this we'll do the hokey pokey.

Let me get a wire pierced tool, we'll use our pomona kimono. Okay, still no clicking over there. Okay, so now we have a tesla. So this, oh, let me shut that off, so you guys can see um this one better, not poke it with that one.

That's probably too high current! So this one here, 150 milliamps or so when i shut the key off that should turn off because it would be similar to it turning off the control relay so let's shut the key off and that test light should go out in theory. There we go so it just turned off i'll hit the button back on and there we go. It turned back on so uh, so that's good folks, uh show's over in theory. We can go through.

We can find the broken wire. We could overlay a wire over here. I can show you that, or chances are about 95 chance. We're gon na have a crappy connection at this connector, maybe um.

That would probably be. My next approach is to find connector f50 e64. If it's accessible, um separate it and see you know now now we can break the system down, because we know at this point at the pcm that this wire is good this or that the pcm is good. The control for this throttle control motor relay is good because it can turn the test light on and off, but we also know that that signal somewhere is between here and the relay is open.

It doesn't work because we should be able to ground that and turn that you know turn that on or the fact that the pcm is grounding it and turning it on. But the uh ipdm is not working or it's not turning on, but we know that the ipdm is good because we grounded it and everybody's hacked so uh, so that you got to this point. Cut the wire run a new one or find the broken one. We're going to try to find where the system is split and then go from there.

I need to get my pad uh. I took the plastic cover off the front here, so this connector uh this f50 connector. It's that big jabroni there um it happens, protect. I just touched this third time kick on and touch something is this big connector right here, which is just a wire to wire connector? It's just you know handsy uh.

I took it off, so i was hoping that we could see it, but i think we're gon na have to have a look here. Folks, i'll, let you have a look and hints and hence focus. I think i see a crusty enhance focus come on baby there. She is, i think, oh that's handy, i think, there's a broken wire in there folks.

I can only enhance so much on the nets i'm in hence um, i'm pretty sure. I see green crusty, let's get a poking apparatus uh or we could probably undo the bracket. You have to be able to see it or not. I don't know if i can see here now, i'm just going to try to push down on that wire.

I think the one right above it, oh yeah. I did pick out a little bit of green. That's some green goo. If it's not the wire we're looking for it's a wire, it's a problem there.

It is there's some green and i think it's got. What was it a blue wire? I think there it is baby. We just broke right now, so there it is broke right at the connector oops. You didn't even get to watch the watch it for me.

Watch it with me glorious finishing. You didn't get to see it. I'm disappointing um! Where are we here and hence and hence so there's your broken wire, lady uh. It broke right at the connector folks, so we will come up with a different plan of fixing it and i'll show you what we'll do so.

Here's how we're fixing this one folks i cut the wire on the left, cut the wire on the right uh. I've got some 20 gauge blue, even the appropriate color. How about that and then we're just simply bypassing the connector. Now i am going to leave enough wire that if somebody wants to disconnect it, they can um in the sense that you know they'll just kind of do what they got to do.

Look in there inspect it or whatever uh, because if you make it really tight across the top of the connector, then that doesn't allow somebody the ability to do that. So i'll finish this off and then we in theory, if i cut the right two wires, everything should work right technically we're going to be using a crimp and seal style. So it makes a nice mechanical, crimp good point and then a little blow torch right next to the battery seal, her up trip the other side and do the same thing. So there's our finished product folks.

I do have to put this bend this connector back down a little bit out of the way and obviously re-tape some stuff here, i'm going to leave this, i'm only going to tape it up to this point here, so somebody can see what i've done and then We'll kind of just run it down the side here, so that's more! We can do. I don't believe that it we can justify taking that connector apart uh, you know ordering pins and this and that and the other thing we've done appropriate repair. It's not up that! Didn't break as a result of a crappy connector it broke as a result that something nicked that wire rubbed it externally. So we're just going to leave all that alone.

Um in theory. Let's set this down over here, i would leave that there. It should start rev up so we'll move our little tripod here. Out of the way we can hop in here, we'll give it the rev up tune up.

Let's see, stick that there oops yeah stinking battery's dead, hey jay! We give me a jump. That's amazed most eligible bachelor uh, getting the jump pack. We had the key on for too long he'll give us a jumper yeah. I see she's a little bit crusty out there, so he's using the what brand jumper is that one jump and carry jump and carry they'll jump and carry starts up like a champ.

Of course the money light's still on, but we should be able to rub her up. Oh baby, now she revs up there we go folks. Uh got a battery charger on there set on nuclear. The only thing like a bunch of little woodpeckers out there uh taped up that taped up the lower harness put everything back uh this clip on this is busted.

Of course you saw that when it came in, but we put it together the best we could uh put the ipdm snap that back in that all clicked in so everything's good there. So we should be good going to clear the codes uh do the throttle relearn ship it well. You have folks fixing your nissan sensor with the big one. Eight and i don't know if he told you which big engine it had, but it is the big one.

Eighth uh, as you've seen, we've gone through isolated. The circuit identified which half of the circuit was at fault and then we're able to trace that down and then like a blind squirrel that finds a nut once a while we're able to go right to the broken wire at the connector bypass, the connector and everybody's Happy so what's going to make me happy, is if you go in that comment section, you leave your questions, your comment, your criticism, you'll find us on the facebook, the instinct. I almost see the wrong gang sign there and just remember viewers. If i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching.