Hey there, viewers and welcome back to the self made auto channel got some 2015 jeep patriot. It's got the big two four uh, the guy tells me the money light comes on or is on. He has an intermittent throttle light coming on, so it's the red one with a little lightning bolt on it, and he also says that when you start it when it's cold, the temperature gauge is all the way up where it should be up in the middle up Near hot so uh anyhow, it sounds like they had another shop, they determined it was a thermostat. I think he said they put a thermostat in it, but it's neither here nor there, let's see what it has for uh, why the engine light's on? Let's see if that's related to the temperature gauge and let's see, if that's also related to the throttle, light coming on all right folks, let's have a little gander here, uh, so 15 compass, two four we're gon na go all dtc's and what do we have cooling System performance at 2181 - i wonder, don't know if that would cut off the uh the throttle or not.

I'm surprised to not see any type of throttle code in here. So what we'll have to do? Uh we'll have to go into some service data and look and see what the actions taken when the code set r and see what the code set criteria is um. Perhaps this one in eight. Yes, he didn't say anything about abs, light or anything coming on.

But let's, let's look that up all right folks, so we've got all right. Folks, we'll look at it here. The 2181 we come down. It is monitored ignition on engine running no coolant temperature code, so ect electronic coolant, temp codes present uh the set condition the coolant temperature should change at a specific rate.

If it's too slow or too fast, this fossil fault will set uh, it's a two-trip fault, meaning it has to fail two times consecutively. To turn light on three good times, though, we'll clear the check engine light, malfunction indicator light, uh electronic throttle control light will illuminate on the first trip failure bottom bing bottom boom. So that answers all our questions. This is probably the problem with the temperature gauge.

We certainly can say that it's going to be the problem with the throttle light, so that makes sense. I don't know why it lights that up the first failure, but it does, and that explains why he said it's been intermittently coming on the throttle. Light uh possible causes a little coolant, thermostat coolant, temp signals short voltage, shortage, ground, yada, yada, electronic coolant, temp sensor, uh inspect contact related pcm. Sometimes i think i've mentioned in the past we'll look through uh flow charts, so to speak just to see if there's any relevant information in them, uh oftentimes they can lead you.

I don't really want to lead you straight, but they're going to take you the long way around. So it looks like it's primarily using this engine coolant temp sensor, 1. uh see it's got a bunch of checks. There probably has a resistance value here for the sensor itself.

Anyhow, it's just going to be a bunch of basic circuit checks. So, let's see, i think they had a wiring diagram up here too already, and they did so right here. Engine coolant, temp sensor looks like it's got: other temp sensors, there uh engine, coolant, temp there, oil and intake. So let's see signal all right.

Let's go like this, let's just pop back into data here and see if we can see the coolant temp sensor, while we're right here, just see what it's saying see if we can just search it out cool 226.40 degrees. Well, that's funny because i just brought it inside and intake air temp is a cool 55.4 and it looks like it had an oil temp too right. Oil temp is 50, so something isn't right if that's 50 and that one's 50 and the intake air temp is 55, but the coolant temp is 200 and some change. We got a problem, houston, we're going in deep folks, you better get these babies out uh cool at temp sensor.

I think they live over on the plastic housing of these things. Look at this and i thought they were over in this neighborhood uh. Actually, i think it's sitting right up here on top and i see where somebody had the radiator hose off. Let me show you where i think it is so right up here and you can see where that hose clamps been moved, so i think they did do a thermostat, but i believe that is our coolant temp sensor.

I want to wiggle it quite just yet just wanted to see if there's anything obvious, any kind of moist damage. I still don't have my sniffer, so i can't smell mouse piss yet which is kind of good and kind of bad, but let's get uh. Let's get that pulled up on a skin tool, let's make sure our wire color matches, because what do we have a purple and some looks like a purple with the orange stripe there and make sure we're in the right neighborhood right what 230. So let me just give it a little wiggle here to see if it changes it just did just all right, so it's kind of flickering around there kind of wiggle the harness okay just want to make sure before we unplug it.

So, let's just unplug, it and 228 seems to be the maximum, and i see a little coolant down on top of the male pins here. So let's take grab a little pair of pliers, a little free tip for you and let's just touch this across two terminals. See if we can take her to minus 40. uh nope, some reason went to 159..

So that's weird: it went to 159.. I would have thought that shorten it unless there is a connection problem inside these terminals, which is plausible because there is uh coolant in there. Let's plug it back in just for poop and laughter and see if that goes back to 256.. One thing we should be doing is, i probably shouldn't be using oem data right now.

We should be using generic data because we don't want to accidentally have a substituted value because see see here's the problem. I don't know how many, how observant you guys are being right now, but look on the screen right here see. This is where it's going to burn us see the voltage 0.6. I unplug it and we go right to 5 volts.

That's what we want to see but look at the coolant, temp data pid it's at 159.8 and it's rock solid. This is where you're going to get burned using oem data. Now i'm not talking just an oem scan tool like this one. This is the wi-tech.

I'm talking oem data, whether you're using snap-on, all-tell launch top-down, any of them. If you're in vehicle specific data you're going to see this - and this is where it's going to get you - because that is, that is a substituted value - the pcm is filled in because we've probably set some other kind of code, it's filled in a generic value. So let's go here, so we did so. We set a zero zero or a zero one.

One eight - and this is yeah. This is where you get wrecked if you're not uh, paying attention, so let's go back to coolant five volts and then technically, when i short it with the pliers, it should go to zero and it's at zero point: zero: zero, zero volts. So we know we know what we know. We know it's a liar liar pants on fire uh.

We know our coolant. Temp sensor is bad. Let's get a generic scan tool, i'm going to show you guys it's a free, little tip to take home with you. So what i mean when we're talking about you know vehicle specific or generic obd2.

It's like, let's say when you're using your scan tool and you put in you, know: 2015 chrysler, you know patriot or jeep hatred or you know whatever you're working on you put it in specifically under that make and model that's what we would call you know, oem Specific data, but when we're doing um generic data we're just going um well, i can't go back to this to the start: menu we're just going generic obd2. So it's going to be like your little cheapy code, readers and stuff. Those typically do just generic obd2 uh. So we should be able to find engine coolant, temp yeah.

We did right here so which the the beauty of generic obd2 data is. There should be no substituted values. This should be just raw dog data, no fill in the blanks. For some reason, we've got one sitting here at 419 degrees, but let's look and see what these do, because that doesn't make sense.

I'm telling you how great generic obd2 data is and i'm showing you how much it sucks, but typically general rule. So now, let's see what happens, this should go open circuited when i plug it, and you can see that this one instantly drops to minus 40. this data pit over here. I have no idea the one that is 419.

I, let's just pretend we didn't see that uh, because typically this is how it should work here now we could put a variable resistor in here and you could run it through all the different ups and downs and ins and outs. But basically, what we're looking for is zero to five volts. You know open circuited, being five volts, which is negative, forty and then shorted together, which typically is 256 um, which i guess we could do with our fires again and just see what value that takes it to. I thought 256 was the high end now, in this case 375.8, when it's fully shorted so and it just depends on how it works if it's negative coefficient or positive coefficient.

I think it didn't set a code for this because it is within a given parameter range. It's not completely open and it's not completely shorted. So that's why we probably didn't have a code for it, but anyhow a long way to go about just putting in a 15 part uh. So hopefully, if you learned a little something napa who chooses not to sponsor us, because we won't let them and they've never asked.

Let's be honest, it's on their way with the coolant sensor and it's pretty easy. It literally pops in takes two seconds. You know piece of cake, wham bambino, but hopefully uh. What we get out of this video is, if you're looking at some data and says something don't seem right like.

Why is that sensor? Reading like perfect, you know uh. If something doesn't see, red seem right and you're in vehicle specific data jump over to generic obd2, because i think technically, the rules are that they can't uh use substituted values. So it's always a great place to go. You'll see me use generic obd2 data, often because i don't like substituted values.

I don't like the way that oem will interpret some data, sometimes so uh anyhow, don't you waste any time going to that comment? Sections the questions, the comments that concerns instead, facebook - you guys know just my viewers - if i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching.