Well that there seems to be a bit of a problem classic 2017 hondu, it's the pilot. It's got some injectors that are gone funky on it and a bunch of codes uh. Do we want to rerun the test? You don't has codes for running rich on bank. Two, some misfire codes got all kinds of little issues.

I'm gon na turn that key on what i wan na check is the high pressure fuel. Let's see fuel pressure right here there we go so we're at 6, 26 and building so periodically. I will check this and it will start to lose pressure, which is wrong. I mean this is what it technically should be doing, is building fuel pressure because it's a closed system and when we shut it off, if the system's good, the injectors aren't leaking.

It builds fuel pressure, but i've done this before on this car and it's about every four or five times you shut it off and all of a sudden the pressure will, it won't drop like a rock, but it drops down pretty steady, almost as steady as when It's going up, but a little bit quicker. At any rate, i have made the executive decision, as owner ceo of the company to replace the fuel injectors uh made me feel good hondu had three of them in stock and by three i mean three full sets the. How they sell them is a six pack and they're quite reasonably priced to be honest with you uh. I can buy all six of these gdi injectors straight from honda, so genuine honduran made in america uh for the price of one fuel injector made in china for a chevrolet.

So that's good and uh. Here's the part number on these little guys in case you need them, of course, call your honda dealer to verify. Anyhow, i'm not you know trash talking, chevrolet, it's just. I found it kind of amazing that i can buy six for the price of one anywho.

We got to take the intake manifold off here, doesn't look too horrible, we'll probably leave the throttle body, that's over here attached to all of its hoses and cool lines and stuff like that and just unbolt it from the intake, and then i think it just zippies Out the bolts out of it and lift that off, and then i believe it's all right here i did check service data. They didn't have anything anything real particular about this other than uh reinstalling, new seals and such, but the injectors come with the seals on it. So i think we're going to be in good shape, but i'll tell you this i've been wrong before folks on lots of occasions, so you never know it could turn into a disaster or it could go extremely well and we actually could be right on our diagnosis. This car has been giving this guy fits for a little bit of time now, and it was, i think it initially started with him.

If i remember correctly, he would complain of a engine light coming on just periodically. You know it would come on on one drive and then he wouldn't see it for a month or so and then it's it's gotten to the point where it's quite persistent so now he wants to fix it, and i wish i could have shown you at a Moment in which it loses fuel pressure, but um, like i say, that's kind of sporadic also, but when it does, it does there's no doubt about it. What's going on and about the only spot it can lose. Fuel pressure is through an ejector, but it does fail.

The uh balance test there baby's toasty come on. How long are you wow, so i'm going to take this off, hopefully without ripping it, and when you check the fuel trim, the fuel trip number is not going to sink right off the chart. I think they're running like .86, so it's going to be somewhere around. You know average 12 to 17 percent negative.

You know it's trying to cut the fuel back on both banks, so there's that there's those four bolts o-ring seal and like i said i did that, so we don't have to mess around with the coolant lines which would be nice if we can avoid that. We have a connector here, of course, we already unhook the booster the map sensor there. I don't know what this is here. I just unhook, maybe a perch solenoid, perhaps is what it looks like.

I think um it does have a hose going to the bottom out. So we're going to get a pair of needle nose unhook that looks like we have one for the brake booster and then it looks like on the intake here, there's a fresh air side of the uh pcv system of some sort, and then i think it just Zips up these bolts out so take this hose. This looks like has something to do with the crankcase ventilation of some sort, so we'll pop that out of there also i'm gon na set that to the side, bad habit, we'll get our stuff off the cowl, and then we have a brake booster hose back here. It looks like get that baby to come loose, leave that sitting there and then, like i say, there's one way down here.

I'm at the move, you folks, let's see i'm getting the classic reach around here, if i can get it as a little clamp on it. I believe it's the perch valve is what it looks like. If not that's what we're calling it scoop that to the side get the hose to crack loose on it here, almost yeah there she is. The baby is born.

So there's that now i think we just got to take the bolts out and then this must have something to do this thing: a vgr yeah. I must have something to do with egr here, a couple bolts down here under so we'll take them out too. Never really know if stuff has egr anymore, you don't see it much so everything's hitting that vtec yo and that usually does away with egr because they do it with the v-tech. I think that's it that that everybody, oh yeah, she feels loose good at magnet because we want to grab both of these both these nuts.

We don't want to drop them. There's that one there's four of those looks like four of these: that's it baby. Let's set that to the side and see if we can't just there's, probably stuff we're missing, i'm sure um yep, it looks like it looks like the ecm cover here. It's got to go.

Let me see what holds this thing on. I might have to turn the camera off and just snap it off, but we'll try to avoid that. It's like literally this much plastic sticking over this edge, all right screw it we're checking service data, long story short, they don't say anything about removing that cover. However, it does say to fully remove the egr tube, which i think will give us the opportunity to slide it.

This way. That's what we're about to find out, then you ain't got to fiddle with the plastic, perhaps, but it doesn't say anything about it: service data. So we'll take the egr tube off all the way. Stick, our o-rings back in there we'll set that to the side, and now we will see if this allows us.

No, i can't because we're still on these studs am i right yeah, so that that doesn't benefit. I should have thought about that out loud what the flip man get wrecked. Honda uh. I had to turn the camera off for a minute and do a little bit of a little bit out loud, cussing uh.

There is two retainers on the back side that i could kind of see this one, so i reached behind give it the classic creature on the pick clicked it open pulled it up. Then i could see the other one, and i just did the old, poke and hope on the back. Uh anyhow it'll go on quick and easy, and then we should be able to uh. We should be able to click this little guy back together.

Surprise, that's not! In service data uh, the easiest way to do it would be to loosen the ecm. So that's all clicked back together. So you have your couple, a couple clicker tabs here on the front and then a couple on the back. The right way, i think, would have been to remove the ecm, get it out, so you can get behind it uh to get to one of the bolts.

So you got to take another bracket off and it was like too complicated. So i'll spend 45 minutes trying to do it a different way. There's that there's the intake upper there's that we don't want to lose our o-ring here and then i believe we need to take this little fell off, because i think everybody's sitting, underneath that that we want to get to now that we've overcome that little hurdle. We're gon na loosen up all these bolts and nuts one nut.

There looks like there's four nuts two on each end, oops that whole stud came out of that one, not a big deal. Okay, there's all of those short little guys here, so you have two four five of those and then uh four knots and in this case the whole stud that came out, which they say it's not a big deal, we'll fix it when we put it in and This should be loose. We don't want to drop a bunch of stuff down in the engine, so let's do that very gingerly, everything's nice and smoking hot before we even fill anything we're gon na get the vacuum and we're gon na give her a little gets rid of some of this Stuff and then we'll fiddle, because we have to take this little cover off and these this little cover off here and then that way we can get to our fuel rail here and take that off and then replace our injectors, not a lot of carbon buildup on This engine, i'm surprised, usually gdi, you pull the intake and it's like son of a mother. I can't see nothing, but this one's not bad, looks like this here clicks on just like so, and it is labeled this way two fuel pumps you got ta, make sure you put it on right.

Let's see, then we've got a plastic cover down. Here looks like the 10m holding that baby together, so we'll get one of those take that out. All the zippy zap like carefully take that off. You know and drop too much dirt down in there.

That exposes our high pressure fuel pump and a dead bee, and then we need to re uh move these two lines now. This baby price still has some pressure on it, so put on your squints all right, so they're, starting with sales rep from napper, doesn't want to sponsor us. That's okay! I put a little um cloths there in the port, so we don't drop too much stuff got out the 19. we're going to give it the crack loose with a rag over it.

So i just cracked it loose. I can hear it hissing, so it's hissing and ppin down there i'll. Let you see it you're ready, i'm not going to look, i'm not looking, i'm not looking, i'm not looking and then we'll cover it back up. That's how you bleed fuel pressure not really but and we'll crack the other one loose here, they're going to be drizzle a little while, because this thing's pretty hot, like i said, make sure you got on your squints while you're doing this we'll crack that loose now.

They're both down here just a hissing and we'll let those drizzle for a while. I think we're going to take and pop this little guy off too, because we're going to take these tubes out all the way it's our best bet uh. I don't know if this has a double donger connector. It probably does that push it in son of a mother.

It does so it's got one a release on the bottom of it also, which i don't know dang it all the heck there. We go yeah baby. So there's that connector stick that rubber back over it i like. So it tells you to push.

Of course that's on the bottom, where you can't see it, and then we have a bolt right here and then there's another bolt down here we got the 10 millimeter variety, the 12 and then we've got another 19 up here. You guys can't see crap i'd, explain it all to you again, but you're going to see it here shortly, so we're going to crack that loose. Interestingly enough of these fuel transfer tubes, usually on the domestic lines, they tell you to replace them like any time. You look at it, touch it, walk by it start.

The car, you know, always need to replace them, but on the hondu i did not see it in service data. Therefore we're not going to replace it. I think they, you know, because it's like a male and female half, it's like a like a brake line fitting and i think they deform - or i guess potentially that is a problem. I think what they're trying to do is not have high pressure fuel leaks.

You know what i mean norman jellybean behind it honda they don't care they're like whatever reuse it, because they looked at all the guys doing the domestic stuff and said hey. You know what they're all reusing them. Nobody replaces them. So there is that little monstrosity we'll have to get that cleaned off a little bit because it's got some dirt junk on it.

We don't want dirt junk down in our injectors, so i'm going to set this to the side. Very gingerly wipe them off. We don't want to get schmoo in there all right. Is anybody still with me at this point? Where can we set this right? There looks good set those bolts with that, and now we will do this.

We don't want to drop that there's those ones. Oh good thing we had stuff in the hole all right now we have the injectors that are still plugged in and we also have a high pressure fuel sensor down here that is still plugged in what i'm thinking i'm thinking. If we can get the injectors unplugged, that would be great looks like there's a release tab there boom. There's one there's two see if we can hit the switch on that one uh.

Let me get something else here: need your classic pick i'll hold up on the wiring hit the release boom. There's that one so there's three of those uh. I don't know how hard they're gon na come out. It didn't require any special tools, but they must be stuck like a mother down in there doody do there is regular clips and o-rings on the top of these injectors, and then they look like a standard high pressure injector which usually they don't wiggle out of the Head too easily: that's why i'll be surprised if these little clips hold together, let me go double check service data folks, yes, sir, i am correct this all.

They say they say. However, if the injector sticks in the head to remove it straight. So apparently these have a problem or perhaps just a tendency to stick in the head. I was hoping to be able to get up in there to give it some wedgie uh.

I doubt these little clips that hold on the top of the injector are actually going to be strong enough to pull it up on the head. Oh that one is that one's not so one out of three ain't bad baby. So let's go like this. There's our fuel injector, okay, i'm gon na! Stick this to the side, all right you stand by and over here on the side, all right, there's that those are the retainer clips, i'm glad that one of them stuck together, so we can figure out everything we need to figure out here.

We need to find out how to get a get a hold of this sucker. Okay, so get a hold of it like that. Now we are jumping these. So what's going to be the harm of just grabbing it like this, anybody have any objections, there's number! What's that four five, six one, two three, here's number one! I tell you what before we pull on it, we probably have to say make it wiggle.

Oh look at that. Come out easy, peasy, lemon squeezy there they are so it appears the design of this clip. This clip that goes right here is just spring retention once it goes into the hole and we tighten up the fuel rail that must just put a constant downward pressure on the injector. That's the only thing i can figure just by design and by looking at it.

That's what it looks like, so it's not like the ones you do on the gm's, where you have to have. You know 400 pair of pliers to click the injector retainer back over it uh. This is pretty interesting how they do it unless i'm seeing it wrong, but this should just wiggle out of there with the o-ring yep, the o-ring in the backer, that's on it and the new injectors come with all new clips and they just simply sit on there. So that's kind of neat so down here in the head, where the injectors go, it's actually nice and clean.

We're not going to do any more to fiddle around down there other than a little bit of lube. We're gon na have to use to slip them in. I'm going to take and just stick these injector connectors to the side for right now that way, when you do go to slip the rail down in there, nothing should be in our way hopefully and we're going to do these three and then we'll do the other Three uh no real particular reason other than that's what i want to do. So, let's uh go put the new injectors on the rail.

Let's see these come with the o-rings and everything already on the injectors. We don't have to worry about going through and resizing everything. We're replacing it or putting them together or anything uh. So, let's stick those three to the side like i say it did come with a bag of the clips, so we'll get out three of those or all six kian is who makes them and uh, and then these clips, i'm gon na, tell you they go like So like that yeah and they just sit on that injector top of that injector and then just spring loaded baby, and i guess that's that i don't.

I don't really think there's much more to it than that. I will double checking service data. If we have a problem actually i'll check before we have a problem, so there's that now what we need to do get out of the air cleaners, we need to lube them up. I believe service data said to use motor oil we're just going to use a little dab of the silicone grease just because we like to people get the people in the comments all pumped up, stating how this will destroy the catalytic converter.

So we're going to wipe a little on there just on the outside of the o-ring there's already the backing piece there underneath it, this stuff's, usually pretty slippery i'll, go like that, get a little bit more on this fella all right now we should be able to Go like this wiggle it right in there until it touches there's a little slot right there and then there's this little donger. That goes in the slot like that. What's up miss, though, then we'll pull these little caps off all right. These things look cool all right! That's it now we got ta, go stick it back in oh forgot.

These things. Don't forget that little heat protectors, i think, or something looks like them - bad boys huh. So what's up he's doing some favorite work? Let's pay our taxes awesome. So it's super exciting.

Isn't it you're like yeah, we made some money last year, you're like yeah, we don't have any more money kind of that feeling same feeling. We've had for the past 15 years in texas, or so for your whole life, one of those jobs where people wait for your tax return. Wouldn't that be great, i could just pay in like a whole bunch of extra yeah. That would be like yeah yeah.

It's tax time we get money, it doesn't really matter yeah either way. Well, let's save a cell born free text to death. That's what they say. I did throw a little teflon or a little bit of lube on the teflon seals here so now we need to start them very gingerly and very straightly like there now i imagine this is going to have some tension on it because we need to compress those Rings am i right so let me look up the specs on that and service data and then what's this it do.

It turns off the camera pushes on it and they click down in so yeah there's no spring tension, because, if you think about it, these other ones would have popped up in which they didn't so yeah negative. There ghost rider you just need to push on it. A little and they they clicked right in nice and nice and neat so we're going to stick these bolts on there and then these nuts and we will find the torque spec on these to be on the safe side. Safety.

First all right. But for now we'll just lightly: that's a half of a duggar right. There we'll come back through and torque them down, um we're going to take and plug them back in because they won't work unless they're plugged in true story make sure we got them plugged in well. This way here we're not mixing up connectors or anything silly.

There's that one and then our last one which is over here it's kind of a little bit more of a pisser to get to uh, i'm gon na leave that one off till we get the other fuel rail off, because i need to straighten up that rubber. So plan c we'll leave that one unplugged - i can't see these ones, but we'll just do the poking hope, nope nope nope, i keep hoping wait. A minute is a little clicker on the bottom. Oh yeah, the clickers on the bottom on these ones.

Maybe it's on the bottom of the other ones too. So there's that those those three are unplugged now easy, easy and then now we'll see if we can't wiggle these ones out straight, get the whole things to come out. If not, we know what we're doing and we have to take the fuel rail pressure sensor off also, once we get this one up come on baby, how many of them came out one two, three, none of them. So all three of those injectors stayed in the head, not a big deal.

It just says: push push what kind! I can't freaking see anything because you got this big cover over it. Oh honey, you're painting my anyhoo push these out of the way right. Hopefully, these injectors are nice and wiggly. I don't know what you do if they season the head.

I don't. I suppose we figured out so that one's wiggly, that one's wiggly and that one's wiggly now we're just gon na grab them like a caveman slip. It up and out there's one there's two and there's three so nice and easy one: two and three or three four and five to be more specific or four five and six. If you want to be really specific and basically the same routine, i'm going to swap the stuff over boom, lube them in the hole realistically, there's no real reason.

I don't think to take this rail off all the way. Is there and can't we just put it back together like it is, i don't know i kind of feel guilty if i don't take it off all the way i pissed around that connector for a little bit enough to know that i'm just going to quit, while I'm ahead we're just going to do it like this, because at the end of the day, it doesn't really matter we're not dealing with any sort of contamination issue. So, stick them right in the rail without even i try to peel the rubber back, but i don't want to. I don't want to cause a problem.

You know i'm saying so: let's get our rubbers, we'll lube the ends, and then you know, because that's the sound injectors make at least where i'm from so i'll just stick them on there. Lately all right, oops pull that right back out of the hole. Stick that pull this up here, line them up. Take our plastic caps off all right.

Stick them to the side, lube up our teflon seals here, i did look down in there with a mirror. Everything is nice and clean. Just like the other side was that's a plus everything looks good. We want to make sure we're lined up in our hole with our clip.

This one is not oh yeah, i guess it was a reflection. They're, all they're all lined up, never mind, move our wires back out of the way so they're not hindering us, stop being a hindrance there. Now this one we're going in blind, fellas you're lined up on those studs all right. We got to be in the hole because otherwise we wouldn't be down this far and then we push push push and then down.

It goes it's in all the way that was easy, so i'll stick all the bolts and nuts back on this piece of cake. Huh shows over at this point. I just want to find something to plug the hole here in the end of this fuel rail, this fuel, rail, i cleaned off the threaded portion when i had it out this one. However, we have to do right here, but i don't want to get any of the schmoo in the injector or in the fuel rail, so i plugged it with a little rubber cone and then we'll we'll get some stuff here.

Yeah very gentle. There we go. So i do this before i forget, i don't know if it's quite necessary, but it makes me feel good, knowing that those threads are good and clean. When we put the rail back on there, the tube transfer tube.

So i plugged all those fellas in and everything has been torqued uh 100 to factory specs. Now i did clean off our fuel rail here and then blew it out with some compressed air. But when i cleaned it, i let gravity do the work, because it's the law and then this is going to go, probably something like so and then that wire ran through the middle here like that. If i remember correctly and we'll get these nuts started, we'll get all three of them started that one and then we got the one up here on the high pressure rail itself get.

It started well everything kind of wiggled together here, it's pretty rigid, so you can only kind of fit her in there. One way, there's that, let me get this clamp. Where does that need to be able to get that twirled around there? Where that needs to be get this one started? I was wrong service data on the install procedure does tell you to replace the joint pipe. So i got a new one and put that on there to make sure we're covered there and then plug the high pressure fuel pump back in so now that i have that situated.

Thankfully i had a new one sitting here, we're going to finish, putting together, i'm going to take and clean off the junk where the intake goes on, get them gaskets back on there we'll get the intake set back on here. There's that one and then we'll get the one here for the egr side on there. Probably oh this stun this down here was pretty loose. You guys see that good thing i checked it so we'll have to get our other stud.

I was just going to say we should get our other stud and make sure that's tightened in that one's loose that one's tight. So we need to tighten up these other studs. So, let's uh, let me get that real, quick stand by i'm back. That nut was only finger tight on the one that the whole stud came out.

So i just spun that off no big deal there, we've got the stud installer for the eight millimeter size. Maybe these are ten millimeter. I think they're eight, so we're gon na snug them up and we'll get the we'll get the torque, specs and torque them to factory specs, but for now we're just going to snug them all right. So that's good! Nice word whisker and pal.

I've got our intake here. I clean that off in our new york, compliant eco-friendly parts, washer, which loosely translates to cost a lot of money and doesn't work worth us, and i was just testing you. Okay, wanted to make sure that fit, and it does now prior to putting that on, you do have some other jiggly bits you need to put on so we'll slip that down in that just sits on there, like so the 10 mil ask yourself: did everything else Underneath there get torqued to spec prior to putting that on. Hopefully the answer is yes.

In our case, i believe it is we'll very lightly tighten that come back and torque it, and then here where it says two fuel pump, we will click that back over our rail okay. Now we've all passed our test. Then we will stick this on the lower intake manifold and then we will get the nuts and bolts that go in it. Not gon na bore you with that process, but rest assured this will get snugged down very gingerly and then torque to factory spec.

As always, i think we're safe at this point click this little guy back on and then perhaps you can see where these retainers are on the back side. Here i got to come on the front side and line up the front ones. The front ones are lined up and then the back ones are lined up, so maybe from the top you can get in there i figured we could put it on because we can push the manifold down past it, but just wanted to show you that folks, anyway, Make sure you clean up the back side of your throttle body before you stick this down on here. It'll just be easier.

If you know what i mean without this thing in the way, and then we got ta look for the stud. Where is he ah hoping? I can see it so i can just line her up. First, try there's that one there's that one make sure your o-rings are on there and also there's a gasket for the egr to make sure that's on there prior to putting that on in a crisscross pattern. Crisscross remembers that bad they're winning the wicked wicked wiggity wet, remember crisscross, who wore their pants to school back, not this guy, but i do remember guys that did that in there hook that up.

Obviously we already torqued on the manifold there's that one and we don't want to forget our booster, we'll go from rich to lean real lean and no power assist on the brakes. We'll get all this stuff around the front side. When we get over there, we're going to take hook up our egr tube like twin tube jobby here. Does it go that way negative? I was testing all failed got me now.

Those just go into plastic, so use your mind, not your muscle or your torque wrench, whichever you prefer just don't get stupid all right. That's that, let's hook up the throttle body the rest of the jiggly bits over here and we're done. It's finally done survey says fast pass fast pass pass. We did good, i mean real good.

We have a steady increase in fuel pressure, kion engine off, so we've started at the 600 mark, ish, 620 or so in a very short period of time. We're building up pressure very quickly, so that's good. It means we have no leaks. We take referred, uh monitor fuel trims.

I want everything kind of steady out here. I can see we're running about five percent. Let me see here about five percent long-term average uh, which is way better than the minus 17 to 18. We were running so it goes through a lot of different fueling strategies, so it's not uncommon to watch your short terms, kind of be all over the place for a little while some of these partially zero emissions vehicles will do some pretty wild things with their fuel Trims where you think the car is broke, but it's not over here for a moment, opened up generic obd2 data because sometimes it's easier.

If that's what you're used to looking at as far as percentage of correction on fuel trim - and we can see uh, it's all warmed up. Well, you can't see it's all warmed up, because you don't know how warm it is. Uh 185, so we've been driving for a little while and then there we go so now we can see you know fully warmed up that our fuel trims are spot on. Everybody should be happy at this point there you have it folks uh putting the six pack of injectors in your honda, 3.5 earth dreams, direct injection engine uh, not too difficult of a job and actually relatively inexpensive for what it could be in comparison to some other Makes we won't mention names because people get sensitive and that's it? You can see the field trims are running great.

It passed this air fuel ratio cylinder test, uh which it failed the first time. So that's good and i i think that's all we need to do all i know that you need to do is go into that comment, section the nc, the facebook and uh. Whatever else you do when you're down here, questions, give me some of that and i'll answer them try to or some other folks here on, the youtube uh they like to go down there and answer stuff, which is great and helpful a lot of smart guys out There and just my reviewers, if i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching hey.