Oh hey: there viewers welcome back to the self made auto channel. That's a 2008 ford taurus. I don't know what engines in it, but it's big and it's got a bad wheel bearing um uh along with a bunch of other problems. The left rear spring as you'll see, is uh very much busted wrapped around the strut and the right front.

Bearing is equally as bad as the left rear bearing. However, the only thing we got authorized to repair is this left rear, bearing so that's what we're doing. As you can see, we already got through the hard part aka, taking the wheel off find out what torque set is that is a t40, so we'll buzz. That out looks like somebody just put rear rotors on it not too long ago.

Wow that could have used a little something we're going to give a little reach over here, mother, whatever we're going to take the caliper brackets off couple 15, mil kind of difficult to show back here, we'll get this out of the way. There's two a couple bolts: there we'll get them loose and we'll get on them with a ratchet wrench and buzz them off. It might be a bit of paint because i could say the rear spring is busted pretty bad, but they didn't didn't want to fix that. I guess, or maybe they will at a later date or something so we're just going to kind of leave that sitting right there.

Oh, that was easy. Now we're down to the meat and potatoes pretty noisy, we'll find out where the wire goes round and round that direction looks like we have four bolts here that hold it on should be a real treat. Hopefully she comes off nice and easy like they always do. I think what we'll use is our bolt jacking method, because i'm sure this is going to be stuck in there quite well.

Maybe not though so this one the speed sensor is separate. I don't know if you guys can see it is not part of the bearing. I made a mistake, but um, so you don't. We don't need to follow those wires out, so we'll just take and hopefully get these bolts out.

These are the ones that hold the bearing in so there's four of them total i can reach up through here. Oh fella, calm down come on baby. That's too steep angle for that one we'll do something different, we'll get the other two. Oh.

What do you think hey the days you get lucky, mr? Oh just like that piece of cake, i think perhaps it wasn't seized because it's missing the majority of this upper spot here you know by design, so it has less. You know area to seize between this gap here and that gap. There i mean it's, that's probably less than a third, it's probably at least a quarter of it. You know, has less spot to grip and it only goes in.

I don't know three eighths of an inch or so so, let's give her a little shine. I'm getting real spritz of the fluid film that way there. It comes out easy for the next guy well before i'd love tap that in because you just got a little bit to go. I'm going to line up the bolts, because last thing i wanted to do is to go in and not be perfectly lined up.

Then we're going to pop the bolts back out, put some loctite on them. Tighten them. But let me get a couple started here and we'll very gingerly give it. Why why? Why don't you feel 100, it doesn't feel 100.

I do not believe there is a right side up and i know we cleaned it out good. There was just a bunch of aluminum oxide in there, but there is this tin piece here now. I do not know if that is part of the og bearing and that needs to come out. They're.

Not let me have a little gander here. That seems awful snug. There, mr, oh, don't seem right. Fella see that tin this tin cover wheel, speed sensor is on the other side of that, let's have a closer look at our bearing that we took out you know.

Obviously this is our old one. This here is our new one. I'm gon na get a couple measurements of the overall height to this and the diameter just to be sure before we tap it back into that metal cup sort of speak and if we're right, then we're just we're just going to give our l okay. According to my micro meter, they are the same like exactly so they're ten hundred thousandths of an inch.

I wonder if it would be wise to just tap that out clean the corrosion put this on the bearing and then put it all back together. That would probably be the wiser plan. Young man, i don't know how stuck that is in there - probably very stuck, of course, we've already got it. Lubed up, i'm gon na try to work this a little bit there come on baby.

She looks like she's wiggly. You might have to go around on the back side and tap it perhaps with a brass punch or something yeah. Let's do that before it gets deformed too much, it appears to be broke loose around the top half here, i'm gon na go behind it. Give it a little whack, oh it's not as exposed as i thought it was folks.

Let's see here, we're gon na need a lot longer punch bingo. We got her and that is the problem. Folks, i think it's super corroded. Underneath there there's our speed sensor.

We got to be careful of it. Of course we got everything, gooey and gooey. Now a dandy uh. Let's get the rest of this corrosion out of here and i'd be willing to bet that this will fit good when we're done.

Flander out still feel some slight imperfections even brought a real hammer: oh dang, it loctite's leaking all over. I think we're in good shape. At least i'm gon na i'm gon na say that we are where that speed sensor is you got to go in manuel, like this just get out some of the crusties now a lot of folks are typing right now like. Why don't you remove the speed sensor? Well, you can't not in our estate or at least in our area of the world uh, if you try to take that speed sensor out, you'll just be buying a new one, because it's just as crusty as the rest of it here.

So a lot of big chunks on this thing - yeah aluminum around here - is just as bad as steel. As far as corrosion you just get aluminum oxide instead of iron oxide, just pretty similar all right, so that should fit now. I'm thinking, let's give it the old college, try here. Oh, like a glock see, we didn't have to beat it in we'll blast her down again all right and then we don't need the bolts here now take them back out and then we'll re-lock tight these with some blue and we'll stick the bearing in that's a Whole lot better, just remember folks, if something doesn't feel right, it's probably not so, if you're putting your bearing in - and you know you got to give it any more than just a real light - love tap there's something wrong in this case.

If we had tapped it more thinking that we're going to get the tin, you know cover there to go back on. Probably what would have happened, we can speculate as we would have banged it right back into the speed. Sensor broke the speed sensor and then we'd been in big trouble, be sure to torque that down to factory specs. Obviously, as we always do now make sure the inside of your rotor is clean, where the rotor meets the hub and on this one you don't have.

Doesn't matter where you get it, it's always in the right spot. Now those you don't have to kill them. Whoa push back the rust careful backing plates. You push too hard and they just don't exist anymore.

There's a fine balance of where they're good and, where they're not that right. There is perfect nice slide the old brakes back over perfect and then we'll grab the caliper bracket bolts, a little loctite put them back in factory specs, always always always well. That's it! Folks! Uh changing the rear wheel, bearing in your taurus. I imagine the sables are the same way.

This vintage uh. This is only a two wheel drive, so it wasn't too bad. You can get these cars in four-wheel peel too, of pretty much the same process except you know the axle shaft goes through there. I don't think they have the tin cup on the back of them would be my guess, because there's an axle shaft there.

I don't recall doing one on an all-wheel drive, don't see many of these cars in our area, so uh, that's that what i do want to see is. I want to see you in that comment. Section down there comment, subscribing and ringing the bells doing everything you do find us on the institute, the facebook everywhere else and just show our viewers. If i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching.