Hey there, viewers welcome back to the self made auto channel. You guys have 2012 ford focus, it's the sc, it's the 200, it's the automatic and the money lights on. I let it go through a system scan and it does have a p0014 pending and current and wow that escalated quickly. The customer told me that it had the 0014 in it, but they also said they had another shop who made the call on the pcm.

They said that had an internal computer mail function so they brought it here to have the computer replaced and reflashed. However, i think what we'll do ahead of that is. We need to look at this, so we're going to look at some data here, um that was exhaust cam right. I think so we're going to look ford's pretty good about this uh.

Let's see here, so we want to find exhaust cam. Can you guys see, hopefully uh minus uh, so this is uh desired, minus actual, so what the uh exhaust cam timing is calling for versus what it actually is. It calculates what it's calling for, what it is deducts it to. Theoretically, this should stay around zero.

If it's moving the amount that it should um and then we want to see, we want to make sure that it's actually trying to move it, and we will look at intake also. We should have the same thing here right there and there so there's that um. Let's go for a drive, real quick, just see where it's at see if it's like broke broke, uh or if it's working, fine um we'll get this up in a graph and i'll tell you why i'm doing this, i don't mean to kind of side track here, But i'm suspicious of the cam phaser solenoids. This is not super uncommon uh.

So this is the easiest way fastest way to tell i'm going to get these up in a graph here. So it's going to be these little guys here. So these are real similar to gm or real, similar to a lot of vehicles that use the variable cam timing. They have external solenoids that control the oil pressure going to uh the phasers on the end of the camshaft allow to advance or the cam as it's designed.

So i say we go per drive, we look at it. We see what it's doing, possibly to maybe save some time. Maybe we even back probe into the exhaust here. I hate fiddle with connections too much right now, uh, but maybe we'll do that we'll just probe into it we'll take it for a drive that way.

We can have it on our scope too, and make sure that it's receiving a command and all that stuff uh assuming it's still broke, but apparently, according this lady, they clear the code immediately comes back, so i'm assuming it's broke. They plug in kind of rough we're. Just going to use the all telescope because we have it hooked up currently inside the car and then i think what we'll try to do here. We use a couple of these back probes that it comes with and we're just going to probe into the back of the exhaust solenoid here.

Hopefully, we make a good connection. I always put the battery maintainer on them when we have them in here kion engine off, because it's such a big draw that you know if a car's battery is kind of old, which this one looks to be original. Possibly i just don't want to go in bed on my watch. Stick that under the wiper in case we accidentally turn it on like a ding dong.

You never know with this guy all right, we're good! Oh perfect, 114 on it lights on um! Okay, let me turn off the ac here: okay, and you can see right now, they're, both around zero, now they're gon na there's gon na be little bumps in them like if you whap the throttle, simply because they can only move so quickly. This is gon na, be the one we're focused on is the exhaust um. So what you have, i guess i'll give you example so right now the intake cam being duty cycle controlled at zero percent and it should be around you know: zero degrees of variance, uh or difference between commanded and actual. Now you can see it's being commanded.

At thirty percent and our actual is still or our variance between commanded and actual, is around zero, which is perfect, but you can see our exhaust is being commanded at zero, we're still at zero. So that's good, but when we bump the throttle there we do get some command. So what we need to do now we need to. I don't use this scope a lot, so we're going to have to we're going to fumble here a little bit we're going to pop into the scope here.

Hopefully it just auto-populates, because it should be a duty cycle controlled signal here. So, let's uh we're going to go to the 20 volt scale and then we'll change our time i will say: 100 milliseconds, let's just whack the throttle here, a little bit. Okay! So that's where that's where it kicked on: okay, fantastic! Let's change our scale! A little more so that's the exhaust, so we are getting a command there. So that's good! Now what we need to know.

Let's see, i think we can split-screen this baby we'll go back here. I think there's a button to do that with okay, so we got our scope there. We got exhaust cam b, so this is gon na, be our exhaust cam bank one uh over here. So now what we want to do is we want to go for a drive, see what our differential is.

Our intake shouldn't be having a problem. The exhaust is the one that says it has a problem with. So we're going to look and see what our difference is versus to make sure our signal's actually making it there, and that should be enough data for us to make a call. So let me get my seat belt on here now.

Some of you may wonder why our signal is going low on that. That's because i got the probes hooked up wrong. Oh, this is interesting. We're getting a fault right off the right of the get-go.

Well, would you look at that so i'll hold this uh? I think see i'm trying to drive and not not kill everyone here, so i can see that the command over. So let's look at the left side of the screen here see it commanding in about an 80 duty cycle. But then you also see that the differential pit there at the top is showing the difference of 30 some degrees. So apparently, 80 duty cycle translates to 30 degrees of cam timing that it wants, and you can see that the signal is there.

The difference is 10 degrees. I mean it's, not it's not good. Folks, um, all right. Let me uh before i crash here.

Well, i didn't expect that to be um that easy we didn't get to the end of main street. We barely made it to the stop. Sign and we made the call well kind of we kind of made the call now, let's see here. Hopefully let me let me turn here.

I don't see it coming i'll. Show you what a good system we're gon na have to scroll down here. So look at the intake. You see how the intake is being commanded, what not now, but there it is at 30, whatever percent and the differential between actual and desired is at around zero.

That's how that should look, and then, when you look back at that exhaust, that's bad news bears it's trying to command. It looks like the pcm is trying to take control of it. It's got some kind of strategy. We can see what it's doing there.

It's probably when it codes maturing it's doing its best to move it. The camshaft is not moving at all. It is stuck in a fixed position and then that's probably when it gives us the bird and says hey you're broke fella, and i just i think it just keeps trying to repeat that cycle. So very interesting, but we learned a lot i know.

Holding the camera is not real ideal for you folks, but it's the best. I can do we're back to the shop folks. What did we learn? Uh? That was pretty pretty handy. Sometimes, videos work out better than i suspect they will.

We learned that the code generated is 100 correct. The exhaust cam is not moving. It's physically staying stationary, the solenoid that controls it that controls the oil flow to the phaser appears to be receiving its signal. It's when, when the pcm says hey, i'm trying you know i'm sending 80 duty cycle to this guy, it's actually making it there because we could see it on the scope.

You know it's it's showing up, it says: hey, i'm here do something, but then when we saw the other data pid the actual minus desired, we see that it was skewed. You know, 30 degrees. Whatever you know it was trying to command it. That says: hey move.

30 degrees, the cam phaser says nope not today, and it is stuck so there. There was our 30 degrees of difference and you could see how the intake worked and how it kind of stayed right about zero, which is ideal. So at this point, what do we have to do? We? We need to check that solenoid um, a couple things we can do with that. Unfortunately, you got ta, pull the stinking valve cover to get these ones out.

Um we can. We can do an ohm check on it. Is it there electrically um and then, after that we could uh. You know we can jumper power to it.

Sometimes you can hear them clicking. You know there's a uh, you can do that and then the next thing to do is to just simply take it out and replace it. So let's try that um. I don't know if we'll be able to get one today or if i'm going, to get permission from this customer to do that because, like i said they were expecting to have the computer replaced based on the other shop's diagnosis.

So what we'll do folks is we'll? Do a quick ohm check on here. I don't know what the value is. We know the intake. One is good though it's probably in the mid 20s is what i would suspect.

So, let's check the known good value here. I don't suspect that we're gon na find it as off so 9.5 ohms all right. That's not a good one! So much for my hypothesis of being in the 20s huh, i would suspect it would set a fault code for a circuit problem. If this was too far off come on baby, that one is at 44 ohms.

Well, you do have a problem there, lady. I believe these are the same part number. I don't think the connectors are any different. I can't imagine that the coil resistance would be any different.

The connectors are exactly the same, so the uh, the solenoids have to be the same. So let me let me verify that if that's the case, then we're done we're done folks. Indeed they are the same. So i just called my friendly ford dealer local ford dealer uh, both solenoids same part, number uh being that the intake works.

Fine, i'm gon na have to go with that. You know approximate 10 ohm value and the fact that the one that's broken is around 40 ohms. Then you know there's that's it at this point shows over. We know what we know.

We know it's receiving the command and we know it's not moving and we know electrically uh, it's it's not open, but it's getting there and that explains why the pcm hasn't uh flagged a fault against it. Electrically is because i think all it's looking for is you know power in power out. You know as long as it's receiving that 12 volts back on the command wire or on the control wire. The pcm assumes the circuit's intact, and you know away.

We go regardless. It's best to go through and figure out why it needs it. You know what actually failed so uh. So that's that and don't fail me by heading into that comment: section: the institute, the facebook, the bell ringing and just from our viewers.

If i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching.