In this video I bring you along the process of swaping out the infamous oil cooler / filter housing on the Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep 3.6 Pentastar engine. Process is very similar in the vans as it is in the cars and Jeeps. -Enjoy!
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
CHECK OUT OUR "SMA SWAG" STORE! Go on Teespring and get your very own SMA merch!
https://teespring.com/stores/the-sma-store
If you don't like Patreon feel free to use the "PayPal Me" link: https://www.paypal.me/SouthMainAuto
The South Main Auto Amazon Store:
https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=https://www.aeswave.com/Miscellaneous-p9347.html
Thank you for all the continuing support!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.

Hey there, viewers welcome back to the self made auto channel. That's a 2011 chrysler 200. It's one we just had in the video previously for the front wheel. Bearing is our used car guys, uh bought it from the auction.

The money light sound needs a sensor like they all do, and everything on craigslist uh. So this one is having a problem with the oil pressure sensor. Unfortunately, we can't get to it, see it or test it. Without tearing everything apart, i can tell you this kion engine off.

It has 99 pounds of fuel per oil pressure according to scan data, so uh, which is also, i think, translates to like five volts so either the sensor is unplugged open, circuit, faulty something we need to get to it. So we can, you know, figure out what it is. I also know this one's up in the air. It has an oil leak and i think this is all going to kind of be related here.

The oil pressure sensor goes into the oil cooler and oil filter housing, which is very notorious on these things for breaking uh. The oil pressure switches are quite a common problem. Also, the customer bought us uh, a new oil pressure switch. However, i think we're gon na end up needing you know the whole housing but, first and foremost, we need to get to it.

Uh pull the air intake, the upper plenum, the resonator, the lower intake manifold fuel injectors all that crap's all gon na come out. So we can get to just the sensor, find out what's wrong with it and then you know kind of take it from there, and i guess first thing: first, we'll pull this big honky tonk off there. There's that sucker we'll set that to the side. Our goal.

Hashtag goals will be to get this little guy off which to get this off. We got to take this. I think they call it a resonator assembly. We got ta figure out how that little guy comes off and then the rest.

I think these are. These are pretty easy um. I am seeing some chewed up foam here. I think before we get too far so because we could be dealing with mouse damage too.

You know there could be a chewed wire there and there's lots of seeds and junk here so before we open up anything and expose it. I'm gon na take the blow now so we're gon na blast a lot of this dirt and junk out of here uh. At least as much as we can and then we'll work on getting this crap off, i think what we'll do is we'll get this out of the way right here. I can't remember what holds some suckers on it.

I see a push tab in the front. We might have to look in service data. I cannot 100 remember a little clip back here. Oh there's, another clip on there should just pop straight up.

Get your fingers on it. There we go i'll, show you so there's where the one clip goes. It kind of snaps together the other one and pulled all the way out uh. Let's see you have two different style clips.

The inner one here on this vacuum hose is a regular christmas tree style fastener, the other one is just the female half of that. So we'll set that to the side and then hopefully we can see what holds this baby on yeah. It feels like just like a rubber donger down there. Male peg rubber donger that style.
I unplugged what appears to be an intake air temp sensor and it looks like there's a plastic clip right here, we'll see if we can't pull the center out of it yep there. It is so regular plastic rivet that holds that in there. I probably should look on service data before we just yank, but we got one christmas tree fastener from the power steering there, and i think i mentioned in the first video. We did the hub that this bolt was loose uh, so we'll snug that up when we get there - and i do believe i'm just going to move this vacuum line out of the way, because we have to move that anyways.

I do believe that this is just uh. You pick it up, pull and prey. We say when you're dealing plastic come on baby, get your hands back here, yeah yeah, it looks like we got. It pulled up off the plastic tabs in the back.

So i don't know what that thunder can be. Holding us right now wouldn't be much i'm going to have a throttle about a year. It's a real sweet design. Not gon na lie.

Yeah baby genius genius. You got ta pull a wiper cowl to get it out. That's why i hate cars folks there we go slips right out, nice and easy. So that's what i was talking about.

You got these two rubber dongers here. This is the one that was up top it hooks onto throttle body, no clamps or anything appears kind of got ta wedge it around the corresponding male half of these are down on the backside of the valve cover. So we will see that soon enough, but that baby comes off easy peasy. Let's stick it to the side, guys over at chrysler.

Looking at this and just laughing and laughing, that's okay! Laugh all you want if you want to watch a good guy on youtube motor city mechanic, dave he's a mopar guy, fantastic videos too. Really talented man so check him out. That's all he works on this crap every day i couldn't imagine. Actually i can.

I don't work on chrysler's every day, cause i'm not crazy, so we're gon na get some stuff unplugged. Obviously uh we're gon na. Do it's like a map sensor, throttle body we're gon na get this kind of stuck over here to the side. We already did.

One vacuum hose here: i don't know if that runs down to a purge solenoid or where that goes goes somewhere. It's down, yonder uh, possibly a brake booster hose here. It looks like so we'll see. If we can't give this a wiggle, maybe we don't want to break it there we go, let's break boost your hose and then it looks like a vent hose there.

I don't know if that rubber is supposed to be that shape or what what's up miss though you got ta, take your son to work. Take my son to where he's 14.. He should have his own car yeah and drive it too. Why not? Let's see if we can't crack that baby loose from the intake like that, give her a wiggle, let the clamp go.
Perfect now looks like we have a bracket back here. A couple of 10 mil bolts or 10 mil nuts 10 mil wrench, rather they're, not 10. Millimeter they're, actually six millimeter, but who's counting uh. So we'll do those a couple brackets in the front a couple screws on the top 79 newton meters on them.

It says here's that i do not know if we need to loosen that entire bracket or not uh. We're gon na play it safe and not loosen it for right now, anyways. The fact of the matter is, though, one of them is gon na have to come loose either these front ones or the back one. These look like you're, probably a little easier to get loose, so we'll loosen these brackets up right here.

Of course, we could read service today. That would tell us exactly what to do, but we'll see we'll see if we can learn. Let's learn us a little on our own. That way.

If we make a mistake, we don't forget until the next time we make the same mistake. Let's see it looks like 13 we're going to need some power tools, we're going to loosen the two bolts that hold these two brackets on here on the intake. Let them kind of slide away that way. We can hopefully tip up the intake and slide it right out like that.

That makes sense. I think it does. We all agree good. We got us a screamer folks, oh sweet, the good news that bolt was already super loose.

That makes us wonder something that has this pipe on it, which we should have enough stretch to get it off i'll. Do it right at the tip right where we want it and no negative. I got ta get a different sock, something a little bit stubbier or something more swivelly. I don't think we need to take the bolt out.

I think we just need to loosen it. Yes, there look at that. Um problem is when that water pipe goes on. Whoa easy fella, so the one over here i think what we'll do, instead of trying to force that pipe and stuff off it will just loosen that stud up with a wrench.

I think that would make more sense, because we just need that bracket to fall away. So i think once we crack it loose might be able to grab at the end of it. There we go and tweak it turn it twist it pop it come on. We almost got it there.

We go. Look at that just had to loosen up a little bit so now, both these brackets are pulled away. We should be able to loosen the upper plenum just like that in case you didn't see it technically, it's probably not going to work that way, but in our minds it does look at that see just like a concept. It worked.

So the oh got the big diaper there uh the bolts, are captured in this intake and i think they're like a wood screw yeah they're like wood screws, because it's just plastic. It's like putting together legos with wood screws, we're going to take the diaper off here. Try not to flick anything down the intake. There looks like the mice have gotten after this or something who knows, i think what we need to do is unhook the fuel line, and then we have some screws that hold this little guy.
All together, i don't remember. I think we got four here that hold the fuel rail. I don't believe they hold the intake down, though i don't think so. Let's loosen them up see what comes loose here.

That's one way to find out. Oh, i probably missed one sure did and she's loosey-goosey now uh, i think those ones just hold the fuel rail down could be wrong. We'll just leave them kind of like that. Let's see something here yeah, i do believe so.

Um yeah, i think, we're in good shape, so we got everything kind of loose here intakes loose, we're gon na unplug. All the injectors get the wire clips off the harness here. Uh, probably unplug. The coils just set this harness back out of the way we're going to unplug the fuel line where it goes in here.

However, we're not going to remove injectors from the rail because we're going to need to plug that fuel line back in because we're going to go kion engine off to do the test on the oil pressure sensor. Once we get this garbage off here, i'm going to work on getting everything unplugged, it's not that big a deal! If i do that off camera just go through unplug all the injectors unplug, all the coils, like i say any of the wire clips that are kind of holding it to the valve, covers and then set that whole harness out of the way. So we get this out of here, pretty easy. All that stuff's cracked, loose fuel line remains make sure you bleed the fuel pressure off first or pull and pray because it might spread just keep your hand over it.

Oh, not bad at all, not bad at all. Hardly any ppin on it all right: let's go get the shot back, we'll give her a little sucky sucky and we'll take this off. Try not to drop a whole bunch of stuff in there uh. But rest assured.

If you do a neutral drop boy, i tell you they put a lot of stuff down the intakes and these cars just don't blow up so a little piece of fuzz, i'm not as worried about it as i used to be, i think we're in good shape. No we're not we've got one wire clip. Maybe i thought about taking it out there we go now she's out not even broke. There's that oh yeah she's oily oily oily down there uh.

So here is our lower intake manifold, complete with injector, so we're gon. Na start back to the side put that up there tornado, oh, what a mess um about a 95 chance. All the oil down here is from this oil cooler super duper common uh, yeah, yeah yeah. So it does, you know, have coolant and antifreeze or coin and antifreeze there.

It's no duh uh. It does have coolant and oil flowing through the oil cooler. We need to see if we can drain some coolant. We've got to see if we can get this peacock or petcock out of the radiator to find out where the coolant is going to drizzle.

Here. Obviously, we don't want to break through here. Everything's plastic. Okay, i'm going to go, get a drain plug.
It feels like it's going to work. It's going to turn and come out, so i'm going to drain pump. We don't need to drain it all the way, but we do need to get it down below the level of the intake. So we can pull that cooler off without getting all the coolant in the oil.

And here we go and i don't have any dribbles yet come on baby, i'm just afraid it's gon na go right in my armpits well drink all the way out. We got nothing drizzling, that's awesome, see. If i can. Oh, they always just started drizzling right.

There come on baby i've seen one drip, that's handy, that's about his hand. He is not even gon na say it. I miss it. Oh that's out all the way, let's poke a hole, let's blow up into the hole, see if we can unlock it.

Maybe it's just constipated anything hey see that probably missing my bucket. This needed a little tube, oh yeah! That's all she needed so we'll! Let that pee-pee for a while get a half a gallon or thought of it. Don't have to get it down. Super far like to say, and then we'll block that off and rip her down.

So what we'll do now we're waiting to finish ppm we'll take the cracker loose because it should be down. I see we're down below the level of the jug there. We will get out the uh e8. I think it is inverted torques start cracking this baby loose wrong way.

Buddy now, there's two electrical connectors here on the end uh, which i've unhooked. Now there is a coolant hose on the bottom of it. It's kind of a pisser to get to i'm hoping that we can raise it up. Get to that hose and everybody will be happy.

There's five bolts. It does have a plastic donger that goes down into the block, i'm gon na. Let it sit here and drizzle for a little bit more before we taking the anchor off um i'll, give us a pair of pliers ready. So we get the hose off.

Uh we'll get. The new part have a look at that. I opened up our new one for us because you guys want to see what she looks like. So it's the oil filter, housing uh.

They they. These things break a lot because people tighten the jiggers out of the top here, where the oil filter goes and snaps and they leak and they piss all over. This does have the new oil pressure sensor in it. I got this one from uh right from napper.

It is a genuine oem, uh mopar one. That's in the box, uh not uncommon with napa stuff, especially in this uh tech expert line. Usually it's just re-box oem stuff, you you pay more for it, but the fact is, you can't get them from chrysler, because these freaking things are always on back order, at least at our dealer. They are so we get them aftermarket.

I think there is an aftermarket out there right now that the whole thing's made out of aluminum. I think i saw somebody post that the other day i was like that's pretty handy uh. You know providing it's made well, which we don't know, because we don't have one uh we'll set this to the side aka on the floor. We'll give this a wiggle here, baby yeah baby, not too bad, only a little mess.
I'm gon na get uh a pair of pliers, we'll get that hose off as soon as we get some stuff out of the way we get things cleaned up, going back together be a little easier for us here. There we go we're gon na have to drain the oil. I'm gon na set this to the side, so we don't make a mess. So i'm gon na use a flue extractor to suck up some of the oil down here in the valley.

Now that i've sucked the majority oil out there's a lot of sludge and crap so go get your vacuum that you don't love, which we keep one around here just for junk like this, because it makes a mess - foreign, hmm uh. So so all right folks. So i think we mopped up the majority of the mess down in the valley. That's like the pisser to get down there and clean these things always are when they come in, because they're usually full.

You know because the oil sits there and fills up until it spills over. Then you see the leak underneath and then you take it to a shop, and then it gets misdiagnosed as a rear, main seal blah blah blah. Here you are now that we've done that, though, but we have had these come in uh, where they've had, you know previously been diagnosed with rear main seal, but it usually what it's oil leaks in here on this cooler that end up spilling over leaking out. Uh of the bell housing, so i'm gon na take get our plugs back out of here.

We're to get the ports here, cleaned off, make sure they're all cleaned up. You got a couple: coolant ports and restore oil, make sure everything is clean and hunky dory uh. So yeah, i believe we have two oil ports. I think this is the oil.

That's just oil drained back down we're gon na get the tops of them: cleaned off. We're gon na use our carbide scraper here the newest one from astro tools. The 95 32 excellent scraper do not stand this thing up on edge when you're scraping off aluminium just very lightly. Very gingerly use it uh.

It works extremely well. So we're just going to come right across the top of these make sure they're, nice and flat and clean, like i said, we're going to try to avoid as much as we can dropping down in the holes, but you're always going to get a little something in There it's inevitable, unless you want to pull the engine out, turn it upside down. We try our best to do the best. We can all right looks good for my house.

Uh we'll get the new filter housing. I will wash my patties a little late for gloves. We'll lube up the o-ring where it goes down in here, get everything set on there, we'll get our torque down to factory specs. There we go.

We need to get this hose back in here. Give it a little hug like this. Let's see if we can't do this, let's see if we can just get a different pair of pliers. I always try to use these uh needle nose.
10 million dollars in special tools always uses a pair of pliers. Is that the way it works aka the finger snappers, i hate these clamps they'll, get you um there we go, take the tension off it make sure you slip it all the way in come on baby there. She goes you'll, feel it hip bottom uh. There's that get the clamp back where she was i'm pretty darn close to it.

There we go a little bit off there we go now. Nobody will ever know. We've been here, don't break anything off uh. I do want to take one more look at my o-rings before i set it down, make sure we didn't bump anything.

O-Rings look good. I put a little bit of o-ring grease on this one here. One last look at the mating surfaces make sure they're clean go to bris. They look good liner up there you'll feel it line up.

At least you should get all these started. Let's see we plugged into the knock sensors right. I did unplug them down there. Uh just to get the oil and junk out of the connectors plus i had to reach behind them a little bit all right.

So all of these are started now, except for this one yeah that one feels like it started. I'm gon na get the torques back. We're gon na torque that baby down and get everything plugged in uh prior to putting this intake on, though we have to check to see if this oil pressure sensor is working or if we need to go a little further with our diag um or maybe we Got luck? It's just a bad switch so now that we have it torqued to factory specs we're gon na plug in everything that oil pressure switch. I think a temperature sensor there, or maybe it's oil temp.

I don't know if that's a little temp or coolant temp be honest with you, it's a temp center of some sort. We should be good. We need to block off the fuel line before we go kion engine off uh, we'll probably just plug the injectors back in uh. If you flick the key on now, it's going to make a mess, also we're going to have a host of codes that we don't care about.

We have codes for intake air temp map sensor, throttle body all the injectors, coils uh, not a big deal. It had a p05 something in it before, if i remember correctly, grab a torque wrench. Let's have a look, looks like we're in good shape. Now uh oil pressure sensors down to half a volt instead of being up to almost five and our oil pressure is at zero.

Why? Because it's not running so we should be in good shape, except the calculated oil temp for the trans negative, three uh. Sorry there bob it's about 80 out today. I suppose: that's why they call it a calculated value right. The calculation is just a little off.

It will probably take in more parameters for that training temp. Once it's started and running and reads all the other temp sensors. So we're going to get this back off without getting a face full of gas, possibly not bad, not bad! So now, folks, uh, you just got ta toss it back together, show's over at this point, um i'm gon na take and clean up the lower intake. We have to clean this up, some more also we're going to use a little bit of the good stuff.
I like to use a little piece of a scotch brite we'll go around here. We'll get the ports cleaned up, make sure everything looks pretty good going back together. I'm gon na get the lower intake cleaned up, get our new gaskets on it and do o-rings uh. If we need to we'll see what them ones look like, it is used car guys, so we like to use as little new stuff as possible.

Uh, i'm just joking about it, he's a good egg as far as eggs run and then again who likes runny eggs. So the gaskets on the intake were not looking too reusable, particularly particularly the lower where it bolts to the head. Those babies were flattened right out now, the upwards, if we were doing just the plenum, probably could have got away with them. They still looked quite smooshy.

Malleable, i guess flexible, i don't know you choose your word uh, so we're just going to go through sticking. The new gaskets we already cleaned the intake manifold, different, different gaskets upper and lowers should be able to figure it out. I should hope so all right. Let's put it on, i'm gon na go through we're gon na start.

All these bolts by hand we're gon na look on service data, we're gon na get our torque spec uh. Just like. I expect you to do uh for your particular vehicle and then we're gon na get these all torqued down after we get them all started. I'm gon na take a hook our fuel line up, so that's not petering all over and we don't forget and we'll hook.

This wire clip up right here, so we don't forget and then we'll lay our harness back over, get everything plugged back in so once you've torqued your intake to factory specs, if you're a ding dong and you loosen up your fuel rail bolts like myself, we're gon Na make sure that those are snugged up now. Those are just that very coarse, uh wood screw type fastener, so do not overdo it. They will not take a whole lot. Everything is just plastic, so just you know word to the wise uh.

If you're not using a torque wrench uh like we would tighten them up tight enough, so they hold but not tight enough. So it breaks. That's my advice for you and don't pee into the wind. That's my other advice for you.

Ah, let's see here did that go below or above that fuel line, i'm gon na say it went above, don't pee into the wind. That's that's solid right there. Okay, all the harnesses in the clips are in everything's, clicked everybody's happy. I'm happy you're happy that uh we're ready for the upper intake, which we got ta slip it in like this, because we wan na get it in in these two holes uh with those two studs off the back of it.

We're gon na make sure the bottom of it's clean and we'll set it down. You know we'll torque it to factory spec and then put all the other fasteners in now. This is from mopar, so it should have a filter in it. We better double check, though.
Just to be on the safe side usually come with a filter in them. Yep still has a filter in it. I don't want our o-ring to get all bound up on us, so we're gon na give that a little bit of o-ring grease here from toyota rubber grease in case you wonder this car is going to be confused. It's not! I don't know how to identify toyota grease mopar parts from napa wow, so i said that i'm here to tighten it down to the 25 nm's.

That's newton meters, hey it's that guy uh. It should just say, don't be a ding-dong uh. So don't it's a wolf! Just don't tighten the hell out of it. You'll never have a problem.

Trust me, you don't need, though, unless it's somebody you don't like upper plenum is now clean uh. I did put the padding thing back on there. Give the mice uh some good stuff to make good nesting material, we'll call it we're gon na get that slid back in there. We might have to hold some of them bolts up, which i think we're going to have to do.

Let's see here, i think we're about to hold some of the bolts up to keep them out of our way, makes it kind of the capture. Bolts are kind of nice because you don't lose them, but they can also be kind of a pain in the hoo. So we're going to push them push them up, turn them just a little bit just enough to keep them out of the way. I thought i had him there, but guess again: fella! Okay, we'll try this again boy! It's nice! That's nice! Right there! Now these things make sure you start them by hand.

It's going to be real tempting to want to stick a half inch ugga dugga gun on there, but don't trust me if they don't feel like they start my hand, sometimes spin them backwards. You'll feel them click up over the ah, you know it's two inclined planes you'll feel it click up over it, and then you can start it. You'll know what i mean: you'll figure it out, figure it out or strip it out. That's always been my model, all right.

That seems good now we'll go through if it doesn't feel right stop, and these are supposed to be torqued to seven to nine newton meters, so we'll get at least according to that little diagram right there. That's that now put the two nuts on the back on that bracket. The two nuts on the front on those brackets tighten the brackets themselves up and then put the rest of the garbage on we're home free. Once you got all that stuff taken care of we're going to lube, this up, save a little bit of pain from the next guy or the next guy, so they slip out of them.

So it has doners like this like. If you see these down on the back of the valve cover - and i will put a little bit of lube just around where it goes on the throttle body to keep that from sticking on the throttle body, all right, then we'll see if we can fish it In the one silly little spot that it comes out of, maybe i might have to just push you get it right. The two legs on it go right beside well, you can't see crap, as i was saying, the two little legs where the rubbers on it yeah. The coil that's on there.
If you stick the coil right between it and kind of get it down in there and then get it around the ignition coil wow. I was trying to be all smooth about it all right, never mind just force it that don't lie. Ah goddamn stupid cars there that was easy, just slip it right around we're gon na on the throttle body, then we're gon na have to hug the motor for the engine and see if we can feel where those feel its nipples back here line it up with Those little rubber things there was uh. I think two clips on this.

If i remember right, yep one back here that baby's in this one will click in should all right on baby there gosh uh find a ratchet. Well, maybe this one worked. I think that eight millimeter we were using on the intake. Yes, sir, make sure that's on all the way there we go head notch it lines up.

That's it ship it not. Yet we have to drain the oil put the peacock back in the radiator. We got ta eat some lunch. We got ta grasp this, though lots of things on my agenda.

Folks, i've got the oil draining right now. I did close up our little petcock that lives up under there and that's sealed off no longer dripping which we didn't get a lot of cooling out of it uh, but we're gon na take let that drain for a while, but take care of tools. Let the camera charge back up. Uh go harass.

The mrs oh eat some lunch. She got some tires. I got ta change few other cars i want to fix and get out of here. Oh wait for that then we'll come back and revisit this we'll fill up with oil, we'll fill it up with we'll fire.

It up make sure that we clear all the codes, because it's gon na have a bunch of them in there and, most importantly, make sure that the oil pressure sensor works. So the check engine light should stay out. I got something down there on the belt bone. In a little bit, pretty toasty, where we at here almost fully warmed up 180 degrees, good oil pressure, temp everything looks good in that regards.

I've already gone through cleared the codes uh through the cover on all we're left to do at this point is double check for leaks and uh check the oil and call the used card guy get this baby on the market. Better shutter off, though, because the gas light is on and the gauge is pecked down below e, whether the gauge is lying or not. I don't know, but we need enough gasket in the parking lot now we can't take a two because we've got no plates uh. My used car guy uh, one of them uh this this used car guy, does a little bit of his own work um.

So it may take care of. I don't know what's walking over there on the belt uh and i don't have no idea how long his car's been sitting a while, i think from the looks of it. So maybe it just needs to be driven and that way they say didn't need to drive it it'll go away, but if it doesn't uh, i'm sure it'll get taken care of we'll assume. So anyhow, i'm going to assume that you're going to go in that comment.
Section you're going to leave the comment, the question, the criticism, the concern, the ringing, the bell, the hitting subscribe, sharing, the video, the instinct, the facebook - you guys know the routine at this point and just from our viewers, i can do it, you can do it thanks For watching.

By EricO

8 thoughts on “Dodge / Chrysler / Jeep 3.6 Oil Filter Housing Replacement”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Forrest Schell says:

    Iโ€™ve been watching the channel for a while, absolutely love it. I just had my first encounter with this issue roll into my shop. Another shop (maybe 2) told my friend / customer he needed a new engine because it was burning oil. They showed him the oil saturated plug (cylinder 1) and everything. Well, from a look at codes and some digging into the common occurrence this has become – I have determined the intake gaskets are also no good. So the oil is not only leaking out and hanging out on the block like the rest of these, but itโ€™s also leaking back in the engine via vacuum leak in cylinder 1! This thing ran horrible so he believed them! Swapped out the destroyed cats, plug, and runs great. Now moving onto the rest of the plugs and what started all this mess! Oh, and itโ€™s also leaking coolant even faster than oil ๐Ÿคฆ๐Ÿผโ€โ™‚๏ธ Really glad I came across this before I ordered a plastic one, in hopes there really is an aluminum one!

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John Ridley says:

    Wow I've never worked on a Chrysler product before (*). Watching this video I was just WTF every 30 seconds. It's like at every design opportunity they had the thought "how can we make this needlessly complex, easy to break and hard to work on?"
    (*) I did own a 1979 Plymouth Horizon, but as my dad said at the time "Mopar apparently realized they had no idea how to make a 4 cylinder engine so they bought VW Rabbit engines." so I guess I was working on a VW engine. That thing I changed the timing belt, twice, in a gravel driveway, once taking the head off for the machine shop to work on. It was super easy to work on.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Manny Puerta says:

    Note that an improved, more reliable and more reasonably priced option is to use a 2014 and up oil filter/cooler housing. Unfortunately, the newer version requires a different filter, which wonโ€™t fit the older housing. If the owner doesnโ€™t do his/her own oil and filter changes, the unsuspecting mechanic is going to break something trying to make it work or run through a period of confusion until the issue is figured out.

    If you do your own work or have a mechanic you frequent on a regular basis, the 2014 and up improved filter/cooler housing is a better option.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars mike s says:

    Eric, you knock ford and their designs, you hate working on them, but then you dont complain about this abortion of a design ? This car is a joke, what a crap design. 99 % of new cars are crap. My 1990 stationwagon , with its conventional V8 and rear wheel drive is never a pain to work on, but then again, how would I know ? I dont have to work on it often, as its a tried and true design. Dont get me started on the over computerization of new cars. Cars dont need the headlights controlled by a PCM, thats stupid.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars R.a. Wheeler says:

    Anyone taking this engine this far apart would be best to service the plugs and clean the intake. It's worse than working on a Toyota 3.3L v6. At least the Toyota is probably far more reliable too. That 3.6 isn't nearly as tough or serviceable as the old Chrysler 3.3/3.8 engines. I guess it's the price one pays for more power.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Art Houston says:

    It was 21 years ago this past July when I rolled my snappy box out the door to go and fly airplanes. We used to say that "j-e-e-p" is just "junk," misspelled. After I left, I did a lot of re-writes of ASE study manuals to help those I left behind in the industry. At the time, I had four master certs, and I felt pretty satisfied that I had done a good job. Now, the only really good people I see in the industry are guys like Eric who run shops. Unfortunately, the future does not look good for finding thousands of techs who can rise to that level. There are too many higher paying jobs that draw off the young men with that kind of aptitude.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Craftsman McVMAX Von-Cherokee says:

    Was all excited to see the jeep one….god I hate those 200s in fact most newer Chrysler products….your Jeep the big heavy duty ram with Cummins and the old ugly minivans before the Volkswagen rip off cubes where the 3.3 or 3.8 would out run the car and trans and rusted out shocktowers were like the last good things they made…..

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eric Beard says:

    I didn't know where to ask this… my ac made sretch noise very quickly. I smelled brakes pulling into Napa.

    I realilized it was my ac on my 05 sab 93 with 250 000.

    I added pag 45 oil charged and noticed Schrader was leaking… I added some r134 with cheap gauge..

    It worked fine for 3 days now won't engage. Fuses and relays fine.. my volt meter broke and the Klein I borrowed won't read my battery.

    I put test light on the prong o ac and one side strong, the other seemed to blink a few times.. it was hooked to ground

    Pounding on it won't start engaging… I unplug the pressure valve and fans speed up…

    I watched your videos and ready to buy power probe

    I've your test ights out of old headlights lol

    Think I need clutch I got a frame and an an inch to work with.

    Any thing else I could try other then running fused wires from battery to compressor

    Thinking fans, pressure switch or broke wire

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.