Hey there, viewers welcome back to the south main auto channel. That's a 16 ram, not a ram dodge charger how's that i think it's got the big 3.6 in it uh it's here, because the abs track light is on it's also here, because the tail lights don't work or at least two of the lights. The right side works, the plate, light works, but nothing on the left side or that center tailgate. So it says that led assembly across it.

So we got to check that out. I don't know if they're related, but that's what it's here for, give you the run down here. I've got the all tell plugged in and scanning, so i turn the marker lights on come back here to the back. Now we don't have.

Oh you see it. Just blinked that one down there that tail light there that one in the middle that just blinked and then this one works and the plate light works, but i did notice last time i turned them on and did this also they just kind of flickered. A couple. Two three times, and then that was that and then of course, abs and traction light is on which you know.

That's that's that so i let her go through a system scan here. So, let's see because those lights are controlled by the body, module bcm does have two codes in it. So let's go to the report here and see if there's anything worth looking at regular speed signal failure for the abs. So that's good to know, and the body control module left tail lamp, one control circuit short of the ground, and that is an active code and then his tpms light is on also because he doesn't have any sensors in it.

Okay and then a bunch of codes and stuff that we don't really care about, because what we're here to fix is abs. So we need to look at this right, rear speed, sensor uh, probably the magnet has fallen off the um bearing which is pretty common and then we're going to look at this left tail lamp control circuit short of the ground. Now one thing to note uh before we even get into this is this vehicle is a dirt road driver, so this guy lives on a dirt road uh, it's five, six years old in new york. So that's a lot of dirt and a lot of salt.

So i wouldn't be surprised if we're gon na come across some corrosion and now comes the boring part. So we got ta look uh at this code. What was it a b16 d7-11? That's our code, uh! If we don't know how this system works, we can't fix it. So you know: we've said that a million times and it indicates that the driver circuit is shorted and we go to the description or ethereum operation.

It says when the body module receives an input from the headlight switch when we turn on the park lights, uh requesting park, lap, illumination, the body, control module, provides a voltage output through the park, lamp driver and license plate lamp circuits to the tail lamp assemblies and Lice plate lights, a ground path for the park, lamps is present through the harness to the body's sheet metal. So that's the theory and operation. What does it take to set the code when the body control module detects greater than 1.2 amps on the left rear park? Driver circuit four retry attempts have failed, so that is probably when we see this four retry attempts have failed. That's probably when we see it flicker on uh, which is a good thing, because that tells us that the bcm is trying to turn it on and likely.

There is a high current draw. That's my that's my guess. It's monitor continuously monitored ignition on and when you turn the park, lamps are on and then the action taken it shuts. The park, lamps off um, left tail lamp assembly center tail lamp assembly left rear side marker lamp.

So this is so that left driver circuit must feed the left tail light the center light, the left, rear side light. So that's interesting and then the right driver must feed just the right side. So that's interesting um here is a diagram for us uh. Let's see here left rear park lamp driver.

So it's going to be this wire white with gray right. That's a stop! Stop right, right, right, yeah, so left park, lamp driver so that comes down white wood. Light gray feeds this one, this one and this one. So there's three items here: center tail lamp left side, marker left rear and then something else left tail light assembly.

So exactly as it says, i'm gon na tell you where my gut's gon na take us, because i know this is the dirt road driver. It's taking me to this little guy, although i did see that flicker, though that's interesting, i did see all of them flicker. Well, i say i say i say what do we say. We got to take a guess at something here, folks, not necessarily a guess, but we got a plan to work and work to plan.

Isn't that what we say so my approach to this would be um. Obviously, the pcm or not the pcm, the btm body control module, is seen as short on this circuit, seeing too much current drawing and shutting it off. I haven't looked in data, i don't know if it displays the amount of current each light is drawing or the total circuit. I guess that's neither here nor there at this point.

What i would do is how accessible are the lights? Can we unplug them um? Can we unplug that one and that one and that one and and does that code disappear? Does it turn to an open circuit code? I don't know uh, but we need to start exposing the circuit and we need to come up with the most logical explanation being that we know it's a dirt road car we're probably dealing with corrosion, but we could be dealing with a wire that's rubbed through and Indeed, is shorted to ground, but i say we go with this tactic. First, let's look at that light because we've got to get to it anyways, so let's go to the most likely culprit. Let's look at it see if it's green and crusty and nasty, because that one is probably i think, that's probably an incandescent bulb. I don't know it may be an led assembly, but we got it.

We got to get to them anyways because, ultimately, if that's not it, we've got to unplug the other two. So i say we do that. I think this may actually be led. On the other side, it's pretty dang bright for being an incandescent bulb, plus i'm thinking the 1.2 amps would be a little bit too low uh, because a regular 194 is going to draw about 300 milliamps, not sure how to get to the sucker.

But we're going to see if we can't just take a quick peek through here, hopefully pick up some of these almost not as flexible as i thought, there's a plug on there or not uh. Let me get some more stuff out of the way here. Folks, mike is a better professor. Any lights come on all right lights, kick on, we did unplug it just like you can see we head to.

It feels like i'm pretty brown in the female half of the connector. Here it does look pretty nasty up and i don't even know if you guys can see uh. Let me one fastener on top of this fender liner, i can't see how it comes out, so i only took the plastic clips out, but let's have a little gander. Yeah inside you know what i think i might think i might see your problem.

Lady. Is this connector? Oh no, it's not burnt through no, it's just uh. Looking super nasty uh. I tell you what i don't know.

Let me unzoom you here i'll, tell you what i don't know, even though i have the marker lights on. What i don't know is if well, i said, after the fourth attempt to shut it off. So i say with this unplugged we'll leave this out: let's shut the marker lights off and back on and see if they stay on that connector is pretty corroded in the pins uh. I doubt it's drawn.

You know over an amp just across itself. If that's not the problem, it's going to be oops here i should kill, because i don't know what the process here is back in the run position. Hello, guys backyard, squeeze back on there hey. What do you know what he's saying, huh she's lit up like a christmas tree now, like a red christmas tree, look at that.

We got lucky folks, logical deduction, your problems there, lady, you need a new light and connector yeah. I mean that was pretty easy. Let's continue on, i guess we'll look at this wheel, speed issue, so i've got both wheel, speed, sensors pulled up here, i'm going to move the left rear wheel. This is the one that supposedly still works brakes are a little rusty.

We can see that one works. You know herky jerky, but that's me and then we'll move the right side, which i think was moving at the same time yep. So there's no signal here on the right, rear chrysler is super handy because they put both of our connectors right side by side, so that makes it great. These are active, wheel, speed, sensors.

It can be a little tricky to test. If you don't know the circuit design and the active wheel, speed sensor can be a pain because when it sets a circuit code, sometimes some manufacturers shut the voltage off. That goes to the wheel that set the code, so that can be a huge pain and send you on a wild, goose space. Let's say you're checking, for you know the 11 volts here or 12.

Whatever this system works with, and it's not there, you might go chasing it down like hey i'm on to something, but lo and behold when it sets a code, it shuts the circuit off. So i don't without even looking at theory and operation. The easiest thing to do is we're just going to swap left and right make sure the wiring from here, because we have one good speed sensor. If that makes sense, we know this left side works.

So if we just hook that to the right side, turn that left wheel, if the abs module sees the signal - and it shows up on our scan tool - everybody's happy - we know the wiring from here to the module is good and our problem is either the sensor Or the magnetic ring on the axle shaft, what would be really sweet is that these connectors plugged into each other, but i doubt that they will so i'm going to work on getting these red. The red locks out here we'll work on getting each one unplugged and then we'll probably have to use some jumper wires, which is not a big deal to get it to the other side. So there's that one make sure we've got no corrosion. Everything looks clean and green in there and then, like i said, we'll get this other one unhooked as long as you're following along with me, it'd be really nice if we could just plug it in, but i highly doubt they made these connectors the same they're two Different colors, even bing, all right, so we heard it just said another code because the dinger went off inside but like i say, i doubt that these are the same yeah.

Now this one has a this side here has a locator tab on it. So let's get our aes wave uh? U test kit we'll get a jumper harness, we'll just jumper it from the good side to the suspect, bad side. This was the female end. Now one thing i will make you aware of is this doesn't always work sometimes either.

I think it was, i think, it's toyota, if you're doing this, you have to cycle the key. You have to clear the code cycle, the key and then you have to wait a fair amount of time for the system to reset it. That can also send you on a wild goose chase. Just when you think you're onto something so be warned, and also some of these are polarity sensitive, so make sure you're putting them in the connector from the male and female half the same way in which they would plug in uh.

You know as far as the latch tab, so some of this stuff can get a little confusing, but you know just use some logic here folks and i think you'll be okay or what i say fake it till you make it right. Grab a jumper wire two jumper wires, bring that one up there we'll bring this one up here and then, let's see we're gon na hook the red one on the latch side. Just in case, that's how i say it is, and i'll hook the black one on the inside here black one to there all right now without clearing codes. Let me get you guys spun around.

Actually, let me just turn this left wheel hold on bear with me. Folks, hey look at that; we don't have to clear codes on this one. This is the case sometimes, but not always so now i'm turning the left wheel, the best i can with the brakes in the condition they are and you can see the signal is being received on the right side. So that's good.

That tells us the module's good. The wiring is good: we've just narrowed down the problem to just a little bit of a little bit of the car here. So that's the quick and dirty way. Folks but, like i say, lots of variables to that code, clearing key cycles making sure the polarity is correct, active wheel, speed, sensors are a little different than your magneto resistive, or your permanent magnet generator type, ac pulse or whatever, whatever you want to call them.

I guess the old-school style, abs, sensors, so there's that we're going to leave this one unplugged, because now we need to determine do we have a bad wheel, speed sensor or do we have a broken manual over here in the people's republic of new york? It could be either or bad sensor bad magnet. I see bag magnets more often than not so we're going to take. Try to loosen up this axle and push it out where we can actually see it. You can't see it from underneath.

I take it, but you can see it from underneath, but you've got to push the axle in first. So we're just going to stick this up here, just to hold the axle in for us. So it's a little easier to see. Hopefully this pushes out far enough.

So we can see the magnet oh baby - oh twice, dwight's in it all, if not it's a big fat waste of time, but hey you never know that they have a little look-see uh. Guess, let's see what i get you guys up there um, let's see and hence and hence the magnets m.i.a folks, it's supposed to be on the outer edge of that cv axle. Is she gone? That's there. I don't even see remnants of it up in there, but it's gone for sure there she is.

I did find it laying up in there. It was right tight up against the hub hard to show um. I can show you what it looks like, though, so this is the magnet that's supposed to be on the outside of the axle which it's not, and you can just see all the rusty crusties on the inside and it builds up to a point. It finally splits and then that's it now, if this side's going, you know the other side's right behind it, but let's see what they want to do, uh to do a cv axle in these folks.

I think we did another video on it. Uh you don't pull the knuckle and stuff off you take the rear differential out and to do that. You've got to take the exhaust off. So before we quote this lady we've got to have a little look, because the exhaust has to come off to drop the axe or to drop the rear differential out of it to pop the axles out.

There's two bolts: these two bolts here are a son of a mother to get that one there and that one there and they're all loctited and they have a tendency to pull every damn thread out with them. So so so buttons on my underwear, i think she'll come apart. It's not too she's, not too rotted yet, but it ain't gon na be long folks. It ain't gon na be long well there you have folks a couple of experienced logic based lucky guesses, uh we're gon na need that light assembly there on the left, rear of the bumper cover and the pigtail that goes with it, and then we're also going to Need the right hand, cv axle so i'll give them a quote.

Uh parts availability is looking pretty low as far as the axle goes, so it'll probably be a while. I don't know if we'll record this or not, but i think we already did a video on a charger putting the rear axles in it. So, look for that or maybe i can find the link for it and then, as far as light uh, that's just gon na be a matter of you know soldering on a new plug, and you know that's it in the meantime, i'm gon na leave it unplugged. Take a rubber glove just stick it over the connector, zip tie it and shove it back together.

So that way there, the fuzz doesn't pull them over every time they're out and about and that's all i can tell you folks. I want you to get out and about in that comment section tell me what it's all about, while you're down there subscribe the bell ringing, the inste, the facebook and just for my viewers. If i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching.