Hey there, viewers welcome back to the south main auto channel, that's a 2009 dodge grand caravan. It's got the big 3.8 and every light in the dash is on all the lights. Abs engine traction, esc, elementops and the abcs uh lady had another shot. Trying to get this thing to pass.

Inspections been out for several months: uh, they keep clearing the code, so she can drive it and then evidently it you know immediately comes back on so they said what the heck we don't know. Uh sent it here. So we're gon na take a look see if we can help this lady out find out why the light's coming on, and you know, potentially what has the problem uh. She did tell me that there were several issues, i'm trying to remember where they were.

She said her hood. A jar light was always on since she's owned it and the tpms light so to ignore those two things but try to figure out what else is going on here. So we're gon na use the wide tech here uh. I know it's not ideal shining, the camera at the screen, but when i'm a little bogged down will work, sometimes it makes it easier uh, it's almost unbelievable, but uh.

So this is the topology of this vehicle. I led it id x09 uh. What this tells me anytime, you see a module, that's yellow that has code stored in it. Blue is good if you're, a pilgrim and red means no communication.

So that's interesting now the lady did tell me that she's had you know a host of problems with saying you know the battery's dead, all the time, constant jump starting and the code clearing, and it sounds like a lot of issues so we're just going to go In here i'm assuming everybody's upset because they can't talk to the abs, just a host of codes here, low battery voltage, a bunch of blend door, reser door, stuff, low voltage, pcm lost vehicle, speed message and lost common abs modules. So that's probably why and then long wheel, distance message, vehicle, speed performance, so that's all in the engine computer so in the computer can't see abs so not happy. There key fob stuff, low tire pressures, fog, light switch halo, light switch, put a jar circuit high, which she told us about and then uh steering angle sensor here: uh lost common abs module, tiplum central gateway lost, common abs, module lost com with power master window switch, Which she did tell me this driver side window switch, does not work, so that makes sense low voltage, low voltage battery codes. These are all stored, but a whole bunch of stored codes.

The only ones i'm real concerned with are the active codes um, which we have down through here. So what i'm gon na do i have the battery maintainer on. You can see we're at 13.9 volts we're going to go like this. I know it sounds ridiculous, but evidently the problem that this lady is having is very quick.

Okay, so we're coming right back. So it's repopulating the codes, no comm with abs, no comm with abs, no conway abs, and then this uh, no com with power, master uh master power window switch rather pretty common on these to lose um calm with the switch there uh the wires in the door Jam have a tendency to break so i'm not surprised of that. I'm gon na take and shut the key off turn the key back on start it up. I see the braking abs is on.

However, the engine light is not probably until we go drive it there. We go so now. The pcm has a code, yep lost vehicle, speed message. Let me see if i shut the key off back on, i'm sure a code will mature because you can see they are both pending.

So, pending pending uh, see that one went to the store code. Yeah no engine light, yeah we'd probably have to go, drive it but uh regardless. Oh there they go, they just went active. So if you saw them switch oops, they got a little click happy there.

Let's see yep, they went active, so the engine light is now back on abs lights on so we're back with what i would consider her original problem um despite the driver's door, not working so just because she's looking for a sticker, we're gon na skip everything else. We're gon na focus on why uh the abs module is offline. That is the biggest thing fixing that will uh ultimately fix the engine light that is currently wrong with it, of course, having it not have gone through a whole drive cycle. Um, that's a problem or potentially could have other problems.

So, let's focus on the no-com with the abs, which uh works on the same network. If this topology is correct is uh. What is that? Oh, that's airbag right, occupational restraint here, occupant restraint and then you got the wireless control module that steering angle sensor. Yep steering angle sensor, uh engine computer and the tipum are all on this data bus.

So that tells me that uh, you know the module's, probably not you know. Obviously, it's not pulling down the whole network, so let's just uh, go powers and grounds and ability to communicate, and if that's all there, it's gon na need an abs module. Does that make sense to you folks, i'm hoping it does. I know sometimes i ramble a lot and i've been trying to be diligent to not do that.

So much as i sit here and talk to you um i see, and sometimes i think this could bog other people down too. Is you get a car in and this thing let's say it's littered with codes like this was what like 37 codes, you just panic mode uh. What i like to do at that point is what we're going to do right now. We're looking at the customer's main concern: they just want a sticker, they don't care about key fobs and blend or codes and all this other stuff granted is it problems, maybe um.

It's not uncommon to plug into a car with no symptoms and have it littered full of codes from problems that had occurred at some point that just you know, got stored in the memory. So, let's go after the abs that if we fix that or we're able to diagnose it and she fixes it or the other shop fixes it. However, it goes that'll restore uh communication back with the pcm it'll get the speed signal back. It'll fix their complaint of no speedometer and all these lights.

Hopefully so, let's get started so the abs module lives way down yonder uh down there, where the light is: that's abs, module way down there, uh connector. I think we're probably going to put on the lift to get to it. I got us a diagram here. Uh, let's see, we have one fuse two fuses.

We have two powers. We have this full time power here uh. Then we have another fuse power there and then another fused power there. So we have a couple.

Powers looks like a couple grounds and then of course, our communication wires, which i printed this off a uh diagram for that which uh is accurate to the topology. That was on the y-tech so before we get super involved, let's uh get a tesla here and make sure that we have our feud make sure at least using that doesn't mean our power's making it there. But if somebody was fiddling in here and there's simply a fuse missing, so we need um m37. First, let's see here m37 we'll find that here m37.

It says abs, esp fuel pump relay so that one's probably not bad, because it also controls the fuel pump too. Of some some sort, let's find uh where it lives here, i might have to go, get my glasses power wow. So we have power on both sides of that fuse and m37 yeah m37, which is in this row right here. That's the row four! So that one's good, so then we have a couple big jks, fuses, so j7 and j6.

Let's see here, terrible with the camera work power on that side, power on that side, so our fuse is good there that was j7 and then j6, i believe was which one j6 come on baby this one right here, so we'll pop the lid off of it Off from it that's off: okay, we have power on both sides of it. So we have both our powers up here, uh, both our full times, and then we have uh this one here, the m37. I believe it was uh, so that's our key power. So that's really all we can do from right here, that's it now we have to go, get to the connector check our ground.

We all know chrysler underground. We could have a background make sure our powers are there make sure our grounds are there and then make sure that we have. Our uh can see bus make sure. We've got some chatter down there on the lines, and if we do, it needs a module.

That would piss pot to unplug this thing. Okay, so we need to make sure our powers and grounds are gon na make it here now this is hooked to another wiring harness. I can't get the thing all the way up and out. However, i believe that we have powers and grounds, so i think so, let's see so this is looking at it.

I believe this is pin one here on the top left and pin one should be a power source, and then let me find my other diagram here. So this is 30, so this is one - and this is 32, so 32 is also a power source, so both of those should be power sources, and both these bottom ones, which are pin, i think, 16 on the bottom left and 47 on the bottom right. Both those are grounds um, so we're going to use our high-powered test light here, this little guy we're going to probe into the power and then we're going to attach the other pin. So we're just going to very gingerly front probe it here, we'll just touch it through the brake line.

It should light up that one lights up then we'll do the other one where we're right here, touch it to the brake line and it lights up. So both our powers are good and then we're going to do our grounds, which typically i would use the same power source, but it's kind of giving it the one-handed handy here is a little difficult to get stuff. So we're going to probe into the ground got two grounds down here and then i'm gon na go get a jumper wire, we're gon na hook. This other pin right here to power on the battery and light it up.

Here we go so we're probed into the ground. This. This wire is hot well, that one's good and this light draws four amps. So it's good enough for our testing purposes and that one's good, so both powers both grounds.

Now we still have the switched power source. Okay, uh, that is, that pin number let me find out which one that one is at that is at pin number eight right, yep, so number eight, so that should be on this left side. So if that's one, what do we have here? Two three: four: five: six: seven in the whole baby, that's number eight! Let me uh see if i can get financial back here. Folks, unhook, my battery maintainer, okay, number, eight lights up yeah, so we have all of our powers all of our grounds.

Now we need to see if we have failure to communicate. So that's pins, 12 and 13.. Let's grab a little scope. I'll move you out of the way there for a second folks, so we're going to go to the can high and the can low.

If we can little networking joke for you, so let's see, let me get this un done and by little scope i meant real little scope a little. You scope, gosh dang it on the heck. Here we go. Oh crap.

I don't know if you guys are going to be able to see. Let me change i'm going to change my scaling here. Okay, so there is one side of our data bus. Hopefully, you guys can see that without a lot of great detail, now we're going to jump up one pin, we should have the other half, which i need to move it down, because that's going to be canned high, bear with me.

Okay, so there's there's our can high. It appears to be functioning at the correct voltage scale. Let's see, because if we're at half a volt per division, there's one and a half back down this can low and there we go. It looks like it's talking or it looks like the data network is intact to it, which we assumed in the beginning that it would be simply because everything else was talking on that data network.

So we can oops change the timing here to sweep on it and we can watch the little individual data packets, sorry folks, i suck at this. Let me uh bring a trigger down here on where my trigger's gone so there now you can see the individual data packets being kind of swept across the screen there. Let me get them to hold still for you, so there that's that's pretty much it folks uh! I know it's kind of a hodgepodge there for you, but hopefully you learn a little something. So this point, ladies and gentlemen, i feel pretty confident making the call on the abs module.

All the other modules are tattletailing on it, saying hey. We can't talk to you. We're calling you can see it's calling it's talking on the data bus, but it ain't answering this guy's like nope uh. It has its powers, it has its ground, it has its keyed ignition source and it has the ability to communicate the comm lines.

Are there and it's not, you know, dragging down the network anything funny, so it simply needs an abs module. If i remember correctly, i think i did a video on one of these before uh, replacing it perhaps and doing the initialization procedure. Now we don't need the whole hydraulic control unit, we can get just the module and i believe that you can separate it right here without you know, bleeding brakes and all that stuff and take it off slip. The new one on you know bolt around providing the bolts come out which these look pretty scary.

So i don't know that for a fact, but at this point we'll have to give it back to the customer, we'll give it back to our shop. However, she wants to do it, they can, you know, fix it whatever we can bring it in re-initialize, it program it and uh, and then she can carry on with the procedure of trying to get a sticker. The car's gon na need to be driven, get the drive cycle done, but fixing that should resolve the issue of the no comms, and it should also resolve the issues um with the speedometer. However, it will not fix the driver's side window, so i'm gon na have to get a hold of her.

I don't know if she wants to get in to get into that. Like i said, i'm pretty sure priority. One is just uh the inspection sticker and just abs and engine light, so, if required by the law like gravity, it's the law, and i wish it was a law for you guys who, in that comment section. So i didn't have to keep telling you but go down there to insty the facebook.

The bell forgot about that subscribe, all that stuff and just from our viewers. If i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching.