Hey there viewers and welcome back to the south main on the channel. That's a 2008 chrysler sebring! It's got the big two four, the money lights on and it's up to us to figure out. What's going on so we're gon na be using the y-tec now i did have the all-tail plugged into this uh just to pull codes, and i see it had evac codes and i'll. Tell you right now, if you own an all-tell and you're working on a chrysler, whether it's nvld system, an ldp, esim, an esim evap system, any of the chrysler evaps do not use the altel.

Uh alltel has had a problem with chrysler evap data being correct. For many many years and don't trust it, you will go down the road of it needs a pcm and you'll be wrong, so uh either use uh something else. Snap-On works good on chrysler, evap, uh and then, in this case we're gon na like to use uh. The oem tool so just be warned uh we're going to go to all dtc's, we'll see we have this evac small leak, we're only worried about the pcm codes uh and then we have this problem with the intake manifold runner, control, stuck closed and intake manifold runner Position sensor circuit high uh bank one.

I took a little looking on the engine. It looks like this thing's brand new, so let's uh devise a plan, get a circuit diagram and then see if we can figure out. What's up so looking up here, uh, here's our schematic. I have to be writing service date on this one, which is great.

So this is the intake manifold uh. What they call a manifold flow valve or valve manifold flow should be. I was going to say it should be five wires, so we have a standard um. That's weird! I think that might be labeled wrong, sensor, ground and ground.

Oh no, it's not okay! So we have our sensor ground, our five volt supply and then our signal. So a standard three wire potentiometer and then we have our ground and then the motor control. So basically, what we have is an electric motor that they're you know turning on and off with the uh with the control and then the ground ground's, probably permanent. Here we can look yeah, the ground is a ground and then the pcm sends out uh.

You know probably 12 volts, i'm assuming or some kind of duty cycle control on this uh control wire, and then we have our regular three wire potentiometer. That way there. It's a feedback circuit, it tells the pcm like hey, you know, i'm here, i'm there. You know, let's know where it's at in some range, probably between a half a volt and four and a half volts is my assumption.

Okay, so that's a lot of guessing, but that's i'm assuming that's how that works, and then let me answer the phone stand by and then let's look at uh the monitor condition, so it's monitored when the key is on battery voltage is above 10.4 volts and then To set the code uh, the pcm detects that the uh tuning valve position sensor input voltage is above the maximum acceptable value. So that's interesting, and then it gives you all the possible things to uh. That could possibly be wrong and then it gives you the the flow chart if you want to go down and do all your resistance checks and all the nonsense stuff. So anyhow, let's uh, let's get after it, we've got a wire diagram.

Let's find this little fella we're gon na zoom in on this, we've got our wire colors, where they're at and all that stuff and i'll show you where it's at here on the vehicle all right - and i think just one thing: real quick, like a little bunny Prior to doing that, let's just pop in the pcn and then let's go to uh some data because we should be able to see data on. Let's see some feedback, i don't know, what's going on with the scan tool here there we go uh mfb, maybe no manifold. I don't know what the acting if they're going to use they'll. No, i think, maybe find it here.

Is it flow nope? I guess i'll have to take a look here, i'll scroll through the list and i'll see if i can find it for us here. We go fcv flow control valve okay, so we want fcv boom. Here we go so our flow control valve position currently is at 0.9 and it's showing uh its open position and being 4.1 and its closed position of being 1.5. So that's interesting.

If this is the actual feedback on it, okay, uh, let's see do we have control of this thing. Uh, let's see, did i miss it here we go flow control valve. I don't hear anything. Oh we got to click start.

I think these things are kind of noisy, but i can't hear i can hear the auto shutdown relay kind of humming and then going away so the command is being sent. So we're going to go ahead and stop that uh. It's too bad. We can't see some data here.

I know on aftermarket scan tools you can so there are some advantages and disadvantages to uh to both tools, whether it be oems. I know with uh with the all tell that if we do this test uh, i know in the past, i've done it and you can see data. So it's kind of a darn. If you do learn, if you don't type thing so i'm going to go back here for a second and when we say fcv flow control valve and then let's go, find this little guy and see if we can run some of our own tests and see if It's not getting the command or what the heck's going on here now i could be wrong.

This may not uh, it may not be new, but i did take a little peek down there. I see somebody's fiddled with this clamp, so um, oh and this clamp's already loose so yeah. I might be right, uh, let's see here if we can't get the uh. I might just have to take this side off here.

Let me get a pair of pliers here for us. I thought i could have got a smaller pair of pliers right ding. There's dong, we'll set our little clamp to the side swing this baby out of the way there we go. Let's make sure we're not doing any damage down here, we're not okay and uh.

This tuning valve is right here and it does look pretty shiny. It does have some dust on it, but it looks pretty new um. I tell you what let's uh, i guess we'll just get this whole thing right out of the way here might make a little easier, especially if we're doing some wire chasing or something not sure right off hand if they make these uh aftermarket. You know if we just got a possibility of having a new bad one on there, but the customer did not disclose to that.

They had been working on this. They just made the appointment for the uh for the money light. So i think what we'll do? Oh, that's: what's humming! Oh! So that's pretty interesting! Okay! I thought it was shut down really over there humming away, let's see what that does to our data. So we can see here get this turned around, so i can see it so we can see uh the position - oops not responding.

What's going on here. Why tech, oh that, bump the ding connector here? Ah, there we go so we're at five volts unplugged we plug it in and it goes down to 0.9 uh. So it's just reading the feedback. So that's interesting.

Let's uh! Let's just do some circuit checks here now these things can be mechanically stuck uh. The intake manifold, the the valve in there can actually be stuck itself, but let's just see what we have here electronically make sure it has the ability to function uh, particularly on christ. We want to make sure it grounds good. So let's get this, we got a good power source right here.

We've got a good ground source, let's get us a tessellate and get after it print this out of the diagram here for ease of use, we're going to clamp right on to a power source. Here. First, because we just want to see if we have our ground, which, according to our diagram, is pin number number one and it's supposed to be a black wire. I think it's the only black wire here so let's find out, and it appears to be so and we have a ground that can carry at least 700 millivolts and the light looks pretty bright.

So that's good um. What we want to do now is find the sensor signal, so that's, yellow and dark blue. Let me uh get this back up on your screen for you, okay, let's see here, we want to focus on this one here. So our five volts, that's our signal wire and we are going to hook back to ground.

Take get this clamp down here for you. There's there we're hooked down to a ground and our signal wire is going to be yellow and dark blue. It says it's actually sure to be one of those, and that i think, is the second one in and that should pull it down the ground and does it and it does it pulls it to ground, and then it goes back to five volts. So that tells us our signal wire is intact here i'll hold the test light on it.

So that's good um. What we would need to do now is we would have to get a volt meter and check the 5 volts supply to it and also the sensor ground. We can do that, but, prior to doing that, let's hop back into our actuator test here. Let me go get a different test light.

We've got something here that draws a little bit more current, we're going to go to flow control, we're going to select toggle and then we're going to hit start and it should be toggling currently. So we want to go to ground, which was our black wire, so we're going to probe into the black wire, which is the ground, and then we want to find the control which was supposed to be brown and purple, which i think is the other one right Here and this should be toggling on and off, and this draws a couple lamps. This is like a two and a half amp uh test light. So we see it has the ability to function all right and then let me just hit stop over here on the scan tool for us.

So we stop that. That turns off. So that's good! So so far, so good uh we're going to take we'll back right back out of here, we'll go back to our data and then we'll bring everything back up on the screen. Fcv.

Okay! Now what we'll do? She's a humming? I wonder just for pooping raptor temporarily quit wine in there oh 0.74 yeah. It seems to be kind of hanging around there. So, let's uh i'll stop this i'll go, get a meter we'll check our five volts, we'll check our ground and then we might have to pull it off to see if it's physically stuck so pull up a graphing meter here we'll go to volts dc uh. This is nothing fancy i like using this because it has a big screen and i got old eyes.

So we're going to go to we're going to get a couple t-pins here we're going to do a ground, we'll get another t-pin here and then we'll go to the 5-volt supply. So the sensor ground is dark, blue with light blue and then what do we got for the 5v supply is yellow, pink, so dark, blue light. Blue. Is this one right here and then yellow pink? Is this little fella right here and we have four 4.97 volts, and the only thing i want to do is just to make sure that we maintain that with it plugged in you know, load the circuit here a little bit or let it test it with.

It. Live so we're gon na take and back probe it from the back side just to be 100 certain here, so i want to make sure i get a good back probe on it. Get beside the pin here. Sometimes that can be a little tricky.

You can really screw up the weather pack too, if you're doing the old, poke and hope so just be a little respectful of the connector, so that is our five volt supply. I'm going to like to just use this ground click on there oops, so we've maintained our five volt supply with it plugged in and then i'm going to take and just unplug it and probably could have done both. But i didn't want them to touch together. Kind of a tight spot and then i'm going to check the ground here, so that's plugged in clip it on the ground oops and then that should stay around zero volts and it is and then we're just gon na flick it over to battery power.

In order, you know, of course it's going to be backwards, but minus 12.23, so we have a good ground. We have a good five volt reference and the signal wire functions. It goes from zero to five volts. We've seen it on the scan tool, we're able to pull it down it.

It also goes up to five on its own and uh. It has the ability to function as far as the motor, because that can take a couple amps of current and it toggles it. On and off nice and bright, however, it's not doing what it's supposed to do so we're going to take and pull that off, see if it's physically stuck and if it's not then well, guess what guess? What lady you need a new motor so we'll turn that off. Let's see because we're just pretty much down to the point of uh, does it need a manifold or does it just need the tuning valve or the control valve or whatever it is chrysler calls it? The control valve there we are there's that, like i said that one there is different, whether it's supposed to be or not.

Who knows, take this thing off, there's that so it has a piece here that goes into the intake and it must engage. Let me get a little flathead screwdriver to see if we can't feel that thing, i'm gon na take and pull that back out. I want to look in here in the intake. I don't know if this is broke or if this is supposed to come out, seems kind of odd.

It's been a hot minute since i've done one of these. I don't ever remember a secondary piece here just pulling out if i can look at service data, but right here that thing was all loosey-goosey in there. That's interesting! Let me look in there with a mirror and there is the female half of the slot in there. That i can see so that's good, i'm gon na take and lubricate this o-ring just so it gets a little smoother operation.

So i can tell you know: is it binding? Is this thing buying and what the heck's the deal? I threw a little bit of ky for cars on there, silicone grease i'll see. If i can't guide myself in i'm, going to stick a flat blade screwdriver in it, it doesn't feel like there's a lot of movement there. My guy, i don't know how much it's supposed to move right off hand. Well, it doesn't really feel like it's moving a whole lot.

There fella, let's uh, go like this. Let's plug this thing in all right should plug back in. Let's see if this has the ability to move now, so it does appear to be doing its thing. I don't know how far it's supposed to rotate that's about as far as we could rotate it in there, i'm just holding back some resistance on it, because i'm kind of curious what it feels like uh, the other thing, while it's toggling, let's probe that signal wire.

Just so we have some live data and see. Is it indeed, you know just stuck at five volts, because maybe the intake only moves that large, as this part is junk unenhanced, so we're going to go to a ground put that back on ground. We will get us the probe and the signal wire. If you remember correctly, it was yellow and dark blue.

Then we're going to get it ground again, because snap-on makes their leads like super convenient, not really, they probably have some of the worst leads on the market. I do have some nice ones from aes wave who makes them for some of the snap-on tools, which those are great, so that's still toggling, yellow and blue. I told you so we're gon na back probe it hopefully we're in the right hole. Baby, we're gon na go down the graph oops nope nope nope there, it's graphing, bolts dc, i'm going to show you here in a minute bear with me baby, so we're not in the correct wire.

I thought it was yellow and blue there we go interesting. It's going from zero to five volts. Let me get a good probe on that, because this should be our ground wire. Oh gosh, you guys can't see.

Can you um? Let me just double check something here. This is our five volt steady. So yes - and this is our signal - wire - get a good probe on it, it's probably because we're allowing it to make a full sweep. Let me get this where you guys can see it.

Hopefully you guys can see it. Okay, you can anyways right get that set up there, so it's going from zero to five, i'm wondering we should be able to. It's got a pretty fair amount of torque on it here. Okay, let me take and shut that off, because what i'm doing is nonsense.

I'm gon na stop it from toggling and it did rest or it is resting in the five volt position. I'm just curious. Oops meter fell off here. Sometimes service data doesn't won't disclose how it regulates where it starts and stops.

So we can go through the whole spectrum of the potentiometer there. It does appear to have a little glitch in it right there, as you guys can see. Once i get to a certain range it does glitch out. So that's pretty interesting um it does.

It does have a glitchy spot in it right there about it's in the one volt range. I think it was, i think, we're coming up on it somewhere here right about there. So it's in about that one volt range i'm holding it nice and still, but you can see as we sweep that potentiometer across it. It definitely has a spot, that's crappy, so i'm just taking and sweeping it up and down.

So that's its max range 4.6. We take run it down on its low end and it's got some weird stuff going on there. So this thing is definitely seen better days. I'm still questioning whether or not the intake is binding there.

This obvious has obviously has a very short throw. I hear it thunking in there, but i mean besides the besides the slop of my screwdriver, i mean i'm barely turning this thing. Yeah i mean that sucker i mean it is just barely rotating. I'm not super pleased with that.

To be honest with you, i think, because i mean there's a little bit of slop and everything and i think by the time we take slop out of it, we're not really we're not really turning anything here. I'm gon na see, let's see if we can't get a longer screwdriver in there into that female half. That's in there. I know you guys probably can't see it, but i want to see how much it's actually physically.

Turning that, because i do know, i think, the earlier models of these or perhaps even some of these models had, i don't think it was a recall, maybe as a recall, um or maybe an extended warranty on the actual intake manifold itself. Let's see if i can reach in there with something, so that thing is rotating, like i said, taking the slop out of my screwdriver and stuff, maybe not even an eighth of a turn i mean i can hear it kind of thunk in that way, and that Way i mean it maybe only rotates total uh like a 16th of a turn. Out of you know, 360 degrees, so it barely rotates. That's i would have to compare it to a brand new.

One is the only thing that i could say would tell us one way or another and that's the same thing i get out here. So it is fully engaged, but it certainly just barely rotates the only way to know for sure i can look in service data. It may or may not disclose how much they actually rotate. We could compare it to the entire sweep of of the motor to see how much that rotates to get a full value from open to closed uh or you know, get a new one.

If i didn't already say that and actually compare it to c and then you know check the new one, obviously before you pull the old one off to see how much that's supposed to rotate. But it's quite clear to me that the potentiometer in this has a glitchy spot down near uh. The one volt to one and a half hole scale so definitely needs a motor intake is still pending in my opinion, so i believe, in my opinion, i'm gon na err around the side of caution. Let me turn this off.

I'm gon na tell my customer. I would you know, recommend to them. We get an intake manifold. Obviously we need a uh, you know new control valve and then i'd get an intake here and this car's got a lot of miles on it.

I would wouldn't be surprised if, once we compare it to the new one, we find out that we need. We don't need to replace it. So i think i am going to quote them on the motor and then the intake manifold, also because it's easier and better for the customer to uh take money off the bill than it is to add money to the bill. So that's how i'm gon na handle that one say hey.

You know here's where we're at and here's what i'm thinking but i'd be willing to bet we're gon na need the intake manifold just based on what i feel and then i also just off camera was checking the sweep on this from its half a volt range Or it's one volt range up to the four and a half range and it's a much bigger sweep than actually what i'm turning that valve inside the intake. So i wouldn't be surprised if that's what we're gon na find, so i'm gon na put screws back in it, put two back on it. Let's see if we get the job, if we do we're a little ways out on appointments anyways as far as fixing it. So we will see - and this guy honestly does quite a bit of his own work - i've done some diags for him in the past and he's done the repairs.

So i don't know if we're going to get this one 100, but if we do you'll be the first to know so now that we have that sorted, we have to look at uh the po456. I think it was. Let me see here obviously get a printout here for the customer. Yeah po456.

That's a small evap leak. Uh got a little experience with these, so we're just going to cut to the chase. Uh easom switches go bad, typically, we'll throw large evapolate code uh. These cars have a fatal design flow, not fatal, like you're gon na die, but fatal in the sense that it's put together wrong and we're gon na see.

If i'm right on this - one - which i think i am purge valve hides way down here when they put these junkers together at the factory, they run the transmission shift cable really close to what they call the purge valve harness. So that's the vacuum hoses that come off the purge valve and they touch, and they rub like this and eventually rubs a hole in it uh. So you see that a lot of these sebrings, let's go, have a little look. I may be wrong.

I may be right: let's see, are these long ones and she's long? Let's go have a little gander here now, i'm using my left hand uh and i'm going to try to do it through the viewfinder. So there i'm going to push this. Is the vacuum supply hose and hence enhanced, and we're going to be looking at that? Not this hose that i'm wiggling but the one right below it. You see where the two cables are kind of kissing each other down there.

Like you kiss your sister and you see how it's gon na have a rub, hole right through it, you see how that's kind of curved right around to fit over that hose. Well, it ain't supposed to be like that fella and i bet you dollars and donuts and enhance on and hence that the uh that she got a hole right in it. I almost guarantee it. Let me uh, let me go get a mirror what's going on.

I need you, we need you, the people need you. Okay. Can you help us this way? Mrs though walk this way ready there, you go oops too much hips, let's see here uh, i need you. If you would might get us a mirror.

Yeah uh black handle one will be good all right. Miss, though what we're doing showing the people how we just diagnosed this one with experience, um, hmm, i think you need to be camera. Lady, let's switch, are you ready, camera girl, mm-hmm? Let me uh. Let me get in here.

First, you stay back for a minute because i don't even know if we can show people, i don't want to put the car in the lift you see um. Maybe i can you're avoiding me putting the car on the lift by holding the little mirror yeah it's what we do. Okay, i'm a mechanic we'll take every shortcut. We can to not save time.

Um gosh dang it. I tell you what let me see if i can just stick my pick in the hole. Oh boom. There we go proof's in the pudding, i'm in the hole baby.

What what are we seeing? You might have to enhance? That's that's the top button, but you have to say that when you push it, when you push that to the right say, enhance enhance okay, too much and then you say unenhanced. Let me get my hand down here. I can't get in um. Can you see where the end of my pick is by any chance? You see it down here? Oh boy, you're, unenhanced, i'm looking see, i'm wiggling it.

You feel me. No, i mean i can't see it. I mean, i see it. Oh there's a hole in the viewfinder baby, there's a hole in the in the tube right, yeah, okay, that they just need a confirmation.

Yeah um, i don't know, can they? No, that's all good. It's good, okay, just all right back out unenhanced! I don't know about your video rock you're, probably worse than me, i'm pretty terrible anyhow. I just wanted to show the people that we don't even need the avoca smoker that experience based diagnostics brought me led me to where we're at, though until i got through all right, that's it show's over. I wouldn't tell him thanks.

Mister though you're just going to have to trust me, the transmission shift cable rubs a hole through that hose. I remember the first one of these i saw i thought perhaps somebody put a in it, something like that and kind of had the wires crossed, but i've seen it enough now to know like it's just a thing when we replace them sometimes we'll take and stick A piece of like fuel line over it uh to keep it from rubbing through or you can kind of tie the cable back out of the way. But you know, let's think about it. It's an 08.

It's going to be the first time it happened. It's got! 166 000 miles on it. It's not going to live to see a second one, trust me and then also when you go to order that from chrysler, they call it an evap harness. I don't know why, but you get both vacuum hoses on.

So you get the vacuum hose that goes to the to the intake manifold, and then you get the vacuum hose that clicks onto the hard pipe. That goes back to the vapor canister and you get the purge valve and it's only like a couple more dollars than buying the whole purge valve itself, so pretty tip for you call get it. If you drive on these cars, go out there and wrap some rubber hose around it or or pull the shift cable out of the way. What not? Anyhow, i got a two o'clock coming in.

We got ta, go comment, section questions, concerns and see facebook. You know the deal and just remember i can do it. You can do it thanks for watching.