In this video I bring you along as I diagnose and repair the ABS light for one of our used car guys new auction car. It's a 2011 Chrysler 200 with the big 3.6 -Enjoy!
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Hey there viewers and welcome back to the south main auto channel. That's our 2011 chrysler 200. It's got the big three six! It's from our used car guy uh, a couple lights on the money lights on and the abs lights on abs. I think i've got figured out.

I'm gon na show you what uh, i think it is and then we're going to tear into it. We have a code stored in a c0 or i'm sorry, a c1042 right front tone, wheel performance, it says uh. When i drive it down the road uh looking at live data, you can see this wheels going bonkers. I was going to throw a scope on it, so we could look at the speed sensor and it was pretty obvious.

Somebody's already been in here. Somebody's already had their digits the speed sensor, the screws backed out not quite tightened all the way. So it's probably stripped out uh up under the hood where the connector is. You have to move the power steering reservoir, the bolts all loosen that and that's kind of wiggling around uh, but i think i got a better idea.

That's going to be pretty definitive! So i'm going to get all the speed sensor data up here on the screen for you, so we're going to have a look at the left wheel. I've got that up on the screen and i'm just going to try to spin it steady here by hand. There's going to be some accelerations and de-accelerations, as i spin it around here, but you'll see, there's no drop out. You know down to zero.

So that's what a good side looks like. So now, let's go over to the passenger side and i'll show you what's happening over there. So now that we've seen what good looks like we're gon na take, let's see if i can get this set up, so we can all see it and i'll have fun. We're going to lower that down and we're going to look at this right front wheel, which you can probably see coming across the screen, already wait a minute wait a minute there fella it looks a little funky uh.

Let's change the speed on that and let's make that line super dark darkness. Let's see, is that going to be dark enough, so you guys can see it. Oh, it is yeah baby uh. Let's just change that to a 2x now i believe, there's a broken magnet on the bearing pretty common.

You can easily see that with a scope, but what i'm wondering is if, when we spin this, we can reference the bell stem, and by that i mean you know, use that as our as our mark. So every time we spin it around, you know every time the valve stem is in a certain spot. You know we have a drop out and that's going to tell me that it's not a glitch so to speak, but it's actually sensors working, but there's one spot on the back of that wheel, bearing that it doesn't pick up and that's what we'll do so i'll Spin this here and we have dropout drop out, so it seems to be about the same spot every time. So that's not a coincidence, because you can see when the valve stem gets right about here.

We've got no signal, so there's gon na be a big chunk of a big chunk of magnet missing, because when we come past it you know now we've got a reading, so that makes sense to you so every time it comes past that same spot. So it's got to be a broken magnet on wheel. Bearing speed sensor is obviously working and you can see. Hopefully, you guys can see that when i spin it probably not because my arm was in the way, but trust me folks, trust me, so i just peeled the wheel off what's interesting, you can see somebody had been on this axle nut.
You know the threads are kind of wiped clean. It's got track marks on it um and, like i say they had the speed sensor all loose. I don't believe that i'm wrong with our diagnosis, even without going in there to you, know, use the scope so we're going to take a look. Let life take chances peel, the caliper bracket, peel the rotor off undo the axle nut and we're going to undo the wheel bearing bolts and try to gingerly, get it off and inspect.

The magnet thing thing looks like a fairly new caliper over here bolts out. We got us a hook, we'll pour over press the piston in a little bit. Hang it on up now, we've got to massage the rotor face a little bit, just a whisper. Look at that baby off there, yeah they're, not not too horribly old car's been sitting in a while.

So she has the typical rust on the inside we'll set that down get the axle nut, socket break out door. Again, that's nice and free wonder what they were doing here. How would you get that far fella and not just fix the gold dang thing? So i think just looking at this we're gon na have to give this one a handy, because i think it's going to come out and hit the cv axle. If we use a socket we're going to go like this, we don't get stuck, don't get your ratcheting wretch stuck, especially if you're using one like this without a reverser on it, then you'll really hate yourself, so i'm gon na work on getting all these bolts out.

Oh you, mother lover. I did it oh look at that test. That's a whisper that was a close one. Fella, don't do it again.

You ding dong, so i'll work on this. Maybe i got an idea that idea involved a little bit of squirrel piece, so we're gon na spray a little on the ends there, probably a little late for that, but it's okay. We all know that it does nothing but we're going to use a quarter. Inch drive - maybe oh yeah, look at that lots of room with a quarter inch stuff.

I think technically you're supposed to pull the knuckle off, but if you can get the bolts out without ruining the cv, boot then you're in good shape stick a little extension on there and now we're in good shape for the shape we're in. I got all the bolts out of it. I'm gon na remove a wheel stuck here, whoa fella, calm down, then we're gon na see. If we can't just push this bearing off a little bit here should be enough room back here without doing any catastrophic damage.

We're gon na dig up that plate. Just a smidge give us an impact, oh baby, why don't you use two screws erico, because i'm lazy, uh, plus they don't really line up being a five stutter, don't really line up where i want them to? Oh, no. You did it jerk hole should be out enough. Why don't you get a bigger, wussier hammer there fella there we go we'll push a little on.
The bottom should have just used two screws, not gon na lie. Come down here. Give her a little push. Push push push.

Oh, she come, don't break your speed sensor off the only advice i can give you that pushed it off there right nicely and lucky lucky what i see a big chunk of magnet missing. You see that folks we were right. We were right. Let's see if they screwed up the screw here, huh comes out.

We need to see if it'll go in, oh look at that. They just only decided to put it in finger tight. So what i think is here's what i think. Here's my my thought.

It's the bolt was loose. It's got marks all over this where they tried to get the speed sensor out. Obviously they tried to unplug it under the hood, and i think that is because it had a speed sensor code. So they're, like must be a bad speed.

Sensor they tried taking it out, said ah screw it send it to the auction. I don't know if that's 100 percent true, but i've seen it a hundred times um just because you have the code for the speed sensor. Folks, remember it's a tone: wheel, performance code, uh and that's pretty accurate description like hey, wait, a minute, something's wrong with my tone wheel. So just use logic like i say if we were spinning that wheel and it was kind of glitchy but never in the same spot, then i think all right.

You know we got something else going on um, but we didn't so here we are anyway quit talking. It's not like you ended world hunger, so i'm going to go through get this cleaned up clean up on the inside, give her some of these on the outside, make it shiny, get the new bearing in and then we're gon na move on to fixing the engine Light, which is probably a little more interesting than this old, and just like that, it is clean and shiny i'll give her a spritz of the old fluid film here. Knocking diesel out there napper, not a sponsor. There is our magnet all the way around.

Now we slipper in a little bit of blue loctite on them put them in the same way. You took them out except righty tighty this time instead of lefty loose, you can't see so it's gon na be this way. Anywho, i'm gon na go through the dodge diesel, guys leaving so i already put the other ones in while i was talking to him, but i saved one for you. I didn't want to steal all your glory uh, so we'll get uh the torques back up turn the camera off.

For that, of course, we'll get the torque spec we'll get these all torqued to factory specs. Obviously, then, we'll get the axle nut on there we'll get that torque to factory specs, so that we'll move on with our life so give that a little spritz make sure you clean out the inside face of your rotary before you stick it on. You don't want it all going down the road like this all wibbly wobbly, we'll just put on one of those lug nuts hold that straight for us and then we'll slip our caliper back on after i find the bolts for it slip that baby down bring it Around a little loctite on the bolts never heard anyone, they say so we'll get this put back on and then we'll throw the wheel on and turn the key on, and we should see a nice smooth, steady reading. Of course, that is, after we get the torque spec for these all right wheels on.
Hopefully you guys can see that we'll give her the old spinner. Oh, look at that: no more dropouts, no more glitches, like i say, you'll, see it tracking up and down because i accelerate and de-accelerate because i don't have a good, even spin, but there we go. We proved it it's fixed and that's that so we'll leave it at that folks. We just have to take and clear the codes out of it now which i'll do off screen.

Just like i torque every bolt off screen, you can't always use processed data from your scan tool, uh to make a diagnosis per se, but sometimes you can, but you just have to use a little bit of logic. So you just got to remember, like the process data that you know the pcm is seeing, and then you know going to the data link and then back on your scan tool, and you know finally in front of your face - is way different, typically than the raw Data that you would capture with the oscilloscope, but there are some cases where the process data is good enough to make a call - and it was in this case. So hopefully you understand that and you're happy and if you are happy, be happy down in that comment. Section leave a happy comment, a question, a happy criticism or a happy concern.

I don't know why everything has to be happy. Uh i'd be happy, though. If you found us on the institute, the facebook, you click subscribe. You ring the bell and just remember: if i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching.


By EricO

8 thoughts on “Chrysler 200: Front Wheel Bearing”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars S. J. says:

    You are 100% correct Mr. O. The scan tool more or less points you in the right direction (or should) and then our logic is suppose to take over & verify the information the scan tool is showing. The scan tool will show the symptom or fault & it is up to us to figure out what caused it. Your proving it also prevents comebacks. You are happy & the customer is happy!

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars audifixr says:

    Car goes into dodge dealer for abs light, tech diag’s as a speed sensor… tech replaces sensor… fault still there.. tech diag’s as bad abs module… customer declines repairs and asks for old sensor to be put back in… car gets traded in and sent to auction… Eric O comes in with the fix… the end.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jon Miner says:

    Congratulations Eric O. You are approaching 600K subscribers! There must be a relationship between honest mechanics and world peace. We can only pray for more of both. At least you are doing your part. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Davey T says:

    I have a Jeep GC with a bad front wheel bearing. The original wheels didn't have a drain so the CV shaft nut is total rusty junk! Threaded shaft doesn't look much better. What do you recommend to get that ##$*&U off?

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Schwalm says:

    Why did you use threadlocker on the bolts for the hub assembly? I have been using anti-seize on the hub assemblies I have done without an issue. And when I damaged a wheel bearing in a car accident, I was happy I did cause the bolts came right out; of the other 5 I have done on my family's cars, I've never see a bolt back out in a hub assembly. Have you ever seen hub assembly bolts backing out where no threadlocker was used?

    As a side note, yes I understand that blue loctite is not that tough to get past, but it seems unnecessary and more work for the next guy.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lorenzo De La Cruz says:

    I always use a little salt water. I had a YJ Jeep made in Canada and I think that is what they use to keep all the bolts from coming lose. I don't think any ever came lose and they had to be cut, broken, or drilled to get out. Thanks for the show!

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jan Svendsen says:

    Wish we had just 1 honest reliable garage in my area. I prefer small owner operated garages, that's where I have always gone for any service to my vehicles. No luck in my area of Florida. Every place I've gone they have pulled some crap, I guess because I'm a woman. One place tried to sell me 4 new tires because my tires were expired. Not worn out or dry rotten. No expired because they were almost 3 years old! Had them take my car off the lift and never went back.
    Absolutely love your videos but they do make me long for a mechanic/owner garage like yours. Your thoughtful, honest, intelligent and respectful of the cars you work on.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars romeo_ alpha01 says:

    I just drive by Avoca just now on my way to Lake Erie! Eric you’re so lucky to be surrounded by such nice scenery! Anyhow, next time I’ll deliver some goodies from my travels across the US, maybe Ammo? Lol greetings from CA

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