Hey there, viewers and welcome back to the south plain auto channel, got us a 2002 chevrolet, it's the 2500. It's got the big six, so it's got the service four-wheel drive, light on and the fella had to add another shot, a long ways away and uh we're getting things scanned here. Just got that hooked up. So we let her scan and they put a uh transfer case motor on it.

They told him i needed that and they put one on it and that didn't work, so they put another one on it and that one didn't work. So then they told him that he needs to have the transfer case, split tore down whatever that means, and then he says, hold up, wait a minute something ain't right and then uh. He decided to come here. So we're gon na have to have a little hander at it and see what's really wrong with it um so we'll let her get done scanning there put the power supply on so our battery doesn't go dead, she's scanning right now.

Let me get you guys in a better position here without some glare. I guess that's good advice for all, if you're at a shop - and it doesn't oops ding dong, if it doesn't sound right, it probably isn't so now we're going to let it scan again. He did say on his way here, which was a really really long drive that the engine light did come on, but his main concern. He says he wants to get that four-wheel drive fix because he can't get up his driveway okay.

This time we're gon na hit report in that fault, scan survey says uh, let's see so these are his um engine light codes currents. I think two sensor, two po three hundred and some knock sensor stuff anagia. Imagine that this is what we're. After though uh we wan na look at this c0323, he did tell me he yanked the fuse on the uh abs, and that was the other thing.

The other shop told him is that his four wheel drive will not work on this truck without a new abs motor. So he knew that was kind of fishy, because apparently this fuse has been out for years and the four-wheel drive's been working. Just fine, which is true in this case the uh abs, doesn't really have anything to do with the four-wheel drive on this particular truck. So we're gon na look at the co323 transfer case, lock circuit low.

So that's interesting, so um these transfer case motors have a lock circuit in it that prevent the motor from actually turning um. I believe they have power supplied to them and they're, probably ground side switched. Do we have a lock yeah? So we have a truck uh transfer case, lock, actuator control here transfer case lock, control currently see the front axle is engaged. That's interesting transfer case lock is enabled.

Sometimes you can hear them. Sometimes you can't um. So that's interesting. So what it does is, it will actually physically lock the motor from turning.

You know that way you don't get unwanted uh shifts. So what we're gon na have to do encoder gear position. It says four high, which is interesting because i see the four wheel drive light was on when i pulled it in, but it was. It was indeed in two wheel drive.

I was doing some burnouts during the parking lot to be sure. Yeah four wheel drive high indicator on quarter gears and four high. That's interesting! We're going to kind of disregard. Some of that does have an aftermarket motor on it now which kind of stinks.

But let's, let's see if we can't figure out what is going on with the lock circuit itself, we know we have the ability to control it, but let's find out um find out what we can find out. We'll get some wire diagrams up here for us and see where the power and all that business comes from transmission transfer case two-speed manual. We got a selectable one, uh transfer case selectable, okay, so here we go. Let's find the uh lock circuit control.

I might have to pause the camera here and do some poking to see where that is um yeah the ignition run, four-wheel lock black with white. Is that the one we're looking for? No that's for the front axle actuator shift motor. Let me find this for us folks, okay, learning lesson number two or three for us always lessons to be learned. Why we have multiple sources of service data is because mitchell, remember, rule number one, never trust your service data and never trust your wiring diagrams.

So multiple transfer case options in these things, besides just being selectable or manual. Ours is this code np8? That's our rpo code npa. I think they make an np1 also which, for whatever reason, was the only one that mitchell showed which doesn't have uh this brake control circuit in it. So this is the circuit we're after it gets its power up here from the atc fuse.

20 amp comes down orange wire down to a connector near the transfer case, and then it is controlled by the lock control, lock, solenoid control of the transfer case, control module and indeed it is ground side switched through this tan wire. So so that's the circuit that we're looking for so what we need to do, first and foremost, is we're going to check to make sure we have power, we're going to make sure that we have power. Oops where'd, you go holy cow, we're going to make sure that we have power at this fuse and then we're going to make sure. If we do then we're just going to have to go underneath the truck we'll find where these two wires come in orange wire.

To tan wire we'll see if we have power there, we have power, then we'll use our scan tool uh, which we never trust and then we're gon na command it on and see. If we have a ground - and if we do, then i don't know what we're going to do. I suspect one of those two are missing. Based on the circuit description under uh, the code set criteria, the customer did state that he watched an sma video and he saw that these were prone to having some mice nest under it and he picked it up, and he said indeed, there was a big old Honking mice nest under there mouse nest and um had a broken wire or a wire that was chewed chewed up, but he said he doesn't remember what color it was, but it wasn't chewed all the way through, oh, but it did make me aware of that.

So we need to find atc atc right there. Uh, let's see here fella, do i got this going the right way. I do have it going right away. Why does some that's a oh wait, a minute something right here? Oh i see the the this relay smell.

Oh somebody's got brand new fuse in there power there power there all right before we get burned on this one. Let's pull that out, make sure we got both legs on it and then also make sure that the because somebody's put a fuse in it make sure that those pins don't look spread. I got slid on that the other day boy yep. So that's fine front axle.

Actuator i can hear stuff going on under there. So that's good. We know what we know here and that's all we can check up top there's nothing more to see here, folks time to go down. Let's hook up the power pro before we do in case, we need a power in the ground while we're down there trying to find some optimal angles for you folks under here.

So this is the transfer case motor and you can clearly see it. It's not brand new, so uh once i got up in here and i seen that this thing was used uh i went in and asked the customer. He did state that the shop told them that they sent two new ones back and put the old one back in, even though it was busted. They said so long story short here we are, and now i got the whole story.

However, whether or not this transfer case shift motor works or not, we still need to diagnose this code, which apparently has been plaguing it. Older motor or new motor doesn't seem to matter so we need to get to connector c1, which i think is the same, because there's two pluggers here yep, so it's gon na be this plug up here. It's gon na be the one that the motor circuit runs on too or the bigger power wires, and we need to unplug this guy. I might have to uh move you folks out of the way, let's see here, the mother lover, let me move you out of the way baby.

Let's see why i can't get this one undone shouldn't be a problem. It looks like the little tab is coming up. There put that in ah yeah baby, okay, so patriot, full dielectric grease classic. I don't know what i'm doing shot move pins, look, okay and we're gon na be looking at the orange and tan circuit here on here so c and d, just like it states right there.

So there should be some sort of resistance value. I'm sure it's in service data, but it is a solenoid. So let's just see what it is here, we should be able to use our power probe. I think it's feed test yeah as long as it's.

I think this only goes up to 10 000 ohms, but we should be in the lower numbers, maybe in the 30s or so so clip that on one pin clip that on the other, oops get it there. So i don't touch it my fingers and screw up the value, so there's that side of it and i'll get this side and i'll tell you what this value is about the right two here. Let me try this one more time because it can't be over. Ten thousand, it's kind of looking like it was blinking that way, let me make sure that the power probe is working here.

0.0. There, this one says, come on you, ding dong resistance. Is this thing open? Am i being serious right now because it's not reading any resistant value across that that's kind of curious, maybe when they put the new motor on they had a different problem. But let's see here it's reading over 10 000 ohms because it's not reading uh.

Anything! That's! Concerning we can look in service data to see what that value is supposed to be uh, i'm going to switch back to a different mode here and we're going to see if we have power on what should be the orange wire. So it should be the top left in this connector up here. We should hear a tone and then the other wire, that's interesting. They both have what appears to be power.

Let me get a test light, because we never trust nope. I tested the wrong wire, so the top right here should have power on it and this bottom one should be the ground side switch. Okay. There we go okay, perfect! Let me get the scan tool here and i'll show you where we're at so i got the scan tool.

I think i've got the plug configuration. I had it figured out wrong there at first kind of pain in the bing dong to get up here, um so yeah, so the one on the top right. That's our orange wire! If you remember the wiring diagram that full-time power, this one runs off the fuse and this one down here is our ground side switch. I got the scan tool here and i'm going to turn it on right now.

It says it's enabled and nothing here has changed. I'm going to turn it back off now it says it's disabled and nothing has changed. So it appears that we have our power, but we are missing our ground side switch from the transfer case, control module. We turn it on turn it off.

Nothing changes, okay! So what we need to do now, i see looking at the die. I don't know what you guys can see here, but on the diagram down here there is another connector, this connector c151, that's the connector. We need to get to uh. I don't know where it's at, but that's what we're going to find, and then i mean, as long as that's feasible, to get to not really going to worry about the resistive value that we're reading, currently um everything's kind of snug on this chevy.

I just want to do kind of a visual inspection, also see where these wires run. I'll probably do that off camera, because it's a little tricky just to see. If there's something blatantly obvious, you know rub through uh the wire that's going to be. The offender is going to be tan right yeah.

It appears to be tan, so we'll find out where this connector is i'll. Give this a visual inspection where this runs up and around and see if we uh see if we see anything here folks, i wish i could get you in a better viewing angle. Bushy toy i mean so i want to make sure everybody's on the same page. So we have a code for this circuit, all right transfer case uh shift, motor or transfer case control.

Module is not seeing power right here at this point and technically it should because we have power from the fuse. It comes down goes down. The orange wire, which we know is good because we checked it right here we had power here. You know we had power up here and then typically, the power will go through the solenoid and then back out on this wire until it's commanded on and evidently the you know, control module is not seeing power there plus we noticed when we turned the transfer case.

You know lock on, we did not have the ground side switch to here so uh. I did mention that we have this other connector, the c151 we're gon na we're gon na find out where that is. I did do a visual inspection uh where that harness runs alongside the frame, didn't see anything obvious. So we have a couple options.

We can find c151 before we go to do that. Uh. One thing that we could do is we could plug this back in down. Here that way, we make sure we have power in and power coming out and then we could see when we get to c151.

Do we have our 12 volts here uh? If we do then great our you know, then we narrowed it down to the short section of you know harness here uh. So at this point we either have a um. We have a faulty control module, this could be bad or we have a broken wire. Those are two options and that's exactly what has to be wrong with it.

So, just looking for curiosity uh, i did find in service data under how to you know, fix this code. The resistance value of the encoder motor lock circuit is 18 to 25. So we were right, it was about, i guess, about 30 but 18 to 25. So that's pretty interesting.

We do have a broken encoder motor, so the encoder motor itself or the lock solenoid inside the motor is no good, but i think we still have two problems. We're about to ready to learn another valuable lesson, we're gon na back back out of here and she let me down what i wanted to do for the sake and purpose of testing. Is i wanted to substitute a value across as a light, so we have power on our top pin, which that's our orange wire up here uh. I can't see because the camera's, in the way i was just in the hole there we go and then our bottom pin where the black wire is, is the control side.

However, it lights a light: a 2 amp light nice and bright. So that is very concerning, for a couple reasons: a uh i thought i understood the functionality of the power probe and it's beeper and the amount of resistance that it takes to turn the green light on. I'm gon na have to revisit that. So we're gon na quit using that for the time being uh, but this has changed.

This has changed our diagnosis here, a little bit because that circuit is carrying current enough to light uh. You know a couple amps here. You know two and a half amps of that light bulb real interesting folks. As most of you know, i am not a huge power probe fan to a certain degree.

I thought i understood that one quite well, it's a little bit embarrassing, but this is why we always use incandescent bulbs instead of meters and such let's still go at where we're going. I did print this out a diagram for the c151 and it's supposed to be up by the fuse box somewhere. So let's go find that and unplug it. I think it's under this cover, i thought with the power probe and the four anyways whatever we're using.

I thought when i read it, the total circuit resistive value was under 10 ohms. It would not only display the reading of zero volts, but it would also illuminate the green light and sound the beeper, but only in those situations so uh. You know, for example, if you're using you know meter and you you know, especially like a power probe. If your tire is wet, you touch it on it.

You know it's high impedance to a certain degree, it's not as high impedance as a regular meter, but it would show zero volts, essentially a ground uh, but we know that that can't carry current. So i thought they had changed. Some features on it. What i'm going to have to check? I thought i even tested that in a video, perhaps to make sure that we could trust it to a certain degree, but all right so we've lifted that baby up.

It's got some of your lovely new york salt there. This is supposed to be a big old, honky connector, which i think is this one right here. So, let's see get you guys around where everybody can see and everybody's happy 12 way black. How many we got there? One two, three, four five six times two is twelve and what we're looking for actuator lock control, it's gon na be in terminal c: that's axl, lock, control, that's not the one.

We want lock solenoid controls and pin e abcde. It's going to be near the end: it's going to be tan, so there's a tan one right there, which is next to a gray one and tan, is next to gray with black, and then it's also next to this one here, which is f, which is black. So this should be the circuit right here, this tan one, you have the dab do so what we need to do is just unplug it and see if our light goes out. If our light goes out, then we know the short is not in the lower side of the harness, so that is currently unplugged.

Let me look underneath it see if the light's still on and yes, the light is out out. So if we plug this back in our light will come back on if i can figure out how to plug a connector in that's back in. Let's make sure our light is on, and it is it's nice and bright very, very interesting. So at okay point at this point: we need to go inside and get to the transfer case, control module and see what the dleo is there.

Why is it keeping this circuit engaged? Do we just have a bad transfer case control module we're inside the vehicle? I believe these little guys hiding behind the headlight switches, we're going to take this thing out, set that to the side and then we're gon na figure out how the old headlight switch comes out, which i thought he just popped out on these chevys. I might have to go, get us a light. Okay, so here we are so this whole little didn't have to pull the cluster. I was hoping we could get a little better access to it, but it's been a long time since i won these old chibis apart.

Uh anyhow, the whole headlight assembly switch assembly here comes out very gingerly, so there's multiple clips. You know all over this thing, so you have to be. You know just be careful. Use your mind.

Not your muscle here is the connector we're after so we're going to see if we can't what in the thunder, i was just wiggling on that and it freaking flicked the headlights on so that's kind of curious yeah. We just literally just oh, you know what i bet i was hitting. The high beam switch, never mind like what the hell is going on boys. Let me uh, i got ta, get a little screwdriver to get that release, tab and we'll unplug that, because this is that is not our circuit, that is the powers and grounds going in.

We need to unplug this one a little bit and then see if our light goes out. If our light goes out, then well, we know that it's in the module and indeed our light - did go out and i plug it in the light comes back on. So that tells me we do not have a short in the wiring because we still have a power supply there. Therefore, if the wire was shorted rubbed through touching something metal um, you know it would still be lit up.

So i'm gon na go read a little service date. I want to make sure i'm not overlooking something, but this leads me to believe that we likely have a bad uh transfer case control module. So i went and read your service data through the you know. The c0323 code, and essentially it's you, know everything that we did.

I don't know what's up anyway, it's music playing don't want to get in trouble on the youtube um, so i went down through it and it's the same. It's the same exact thing. You know the flow chart is exactly what we did. They go through.

They check for power, they check for um resistance of the lock solenoid, which we know is no good. We know our transfer case motor is junk and then at that point it has you do some voltage checks uh. You know basically like how i said you know power in power out. Are we receiving voltage back at the module, in which case we are not because we're receiving a ground which sets this code for signal low, and we know that the wire is not shorted, because when we unplug it maintaining power at the transfer case, when we unplug It the light goes out, so our ground is in here it's in the magic little box.

I say we take a trip to wilbur to pull the bath. Who doesn't sponsor us see if we can find one of these with the same rpo code, this np8, which is what's in this truck? I double checked that ran the vent, i'm going to look in the glove box to be sure and then yes, it does have the auto forward drive, so it has to be so. Let's see if we can get one of these and, like i said, i've got a transfer case, shift motor on the way already they'll be smoking out. Here we got our list.

Let's go see what we can find all right, so i found us an o2. She is the four button gaby so hopefully, hopefully she's right i'll get this uh little guy unplugged from there. What do you guys be able to see down there? Hopefully a little better busy place today, people everywhere we don't have to be as gentile on this one. I think i got a ton of these trucks here, i'm busier than a mother lover at the shop today.

Oh boy, somebody's already been back here. We got lots of wires chopped. Look at this uh set it to the side here. She's got the crime stopper easy start time, stopper pre-installed that factory a little bit there.

Hopefully this is the ticket. Supposedly it fits over 1 202.. So we'll wiggle that a little bit they're kind of a piss pot to get out of here, there's that whoops all right, one: five, seven: four: nine: seven: zero! Three! Let's get out our cell phone because i did take a picture of it. Here's the picture of ours - i don't know if you guys - can see it now, because it does a flippy thing.

One: five, seven, four: nine seven, zero three sweet same number matching numbers we can still take it to the car show we are back. I guess i can't turn the parking lights off good. I don't switch back in there click the parking brake down shut it off back on headlights are off the orange light. Underneath is off.

Obviously, let's plug this in a little snow blind. So i can't really see underneath the vehicle right now. Oh, can you guys even see i'm just i don't see the orange light flashing under there. However, let's provide the module the power in the ground.

Okay, i don't think i see the orange light on, but let's go have a look before we stick that back in there. Okay, i don't see an orange light glowing. Let's turn this on. You may mold.

Oh there we go there's orange light so off on off. On hallelujah good thing, my little voice in my head was wrong. Okay, so we have two problems. Folks, we have a bad transfer case control module.

We also have a bad motor. Let's go get the new motor. We got the new motors. Let's go over here, get out our trusty power probe now that we don't trust it anymore.

Okay, she is so here's our new motor sitting here and we're going to check the brown and the orange wire. So this is going to be our full-time power and then our control - which is this one here - and we want to see how many, how many homage it has. I told you i was guessing in the 30s but 16.5. This one has our other one was infinite, or at least more than 10 000, because the power probe only goes to 10 000 ohms.

I'm a little disappointed in this uh. I have preached to you guys preach it boy. If you don't know how your test equipment works, don't use it and she got. But you have to follow the facts and the fact was just you know we we have to believe what we test and trust our equipment and trust what we know, how we know the circuit to work or how it should work.

In theory, like i say, i did probably sound a little doubtful to you guys, because i was because i wish there was a couple more things that i've checked prior to pulling the trigger on this, and sometimes some of the strategy that will mesh up is usually On newer stuff, usually this older stuff doesn't have a default strategy or anything funky like that, but sometimes it does. I guess you just always kind of keep that in the back of your mind that service data, like i say, doesn't always portray all the correct information or all the exact scenarios, because they're just written by engineers that don't you know don't think outside the box. Sometimes of how things can breaker that's what i would assume. I don't know you see it more often than not.

It gets real frustrating because you're, like you know why, in the heck, wasn't that in service data or why didn't they mention that this could be a potential problem or this is how it works. You know stuff like that, because that gets frustrating what i want to do, however, prior to putting all of this stuff back in we're going to swap that motor and we're going to make sure everything here functions as it should before. We stick off plastic on simply because this plastic only has about one life cycle before it gives up the ghost on you and you know things start breaking right now: nothing's broke and uh, that's that so, let's uh get under there. I'm gon na eat lunch first and then we'll come out and uh get after the shift motor there lunch is over.

I took in uh talking to a call there. I popped the front drive shaft out so in case you're wondering what's going on there. We get in here a little bit easier and then i also unplugged the motor the six pin connector up there on the motor. So this one here that one's unplugged, i know you guys aren't in the optimal viewing zone but uh it's the best.

We can do for right now, we'll probably have to ship the transfer case back. It's a two-wheel peel. I think it's in four-wheel drive at least the front axle is engaged anyways, i'm not 100 sure what's happening here. We'll get this thing out of the way.

I guess we can see yeah, it isn't four wheel drive because right now i have the truck in neutral and the out the front output. Shaft is moving. It's interesting. I swear when i pulled it in it was a two-wheel drive, so the sucky part is.

Is this gasket? I can't see it the gasket's kind of busted, but nobody had a stinking gasket for this in stock, so we are going to have to reuse that which isn't a huge ordeal and uh. Let's get the new one. Now, let's see here what position is this one? So this one is clocked a little bit differently than this. One is correct right that one's right there.

It needs to be right there, so i'm gon na reach up there with a pair of pliers, we're gon na shift it manually to get it to where we need it uh. Whatever way i'll turn, it will be the wrong way and then we'll turn it back. The right way, hopefully that gives you a little better deal uh, so they're pretty easy to move. You can just reach up with a pair of uh.

Whatever these things are called crescent, wrenches a pair of crescent wrenches, and then you can move the uh transfer shift fork manually, just like you could in the old fashioned days when they had levers sticking to the floor now. I think that i have it oriented correctly. I could be wrong: we'll try to fish this baby up in there with the gasket on it and see if i'm right, maybe wrong, but you may be right. Let me tell you what i ended up doing.

I just could not get the shaft lined up perfect. So i ended up taking the scan tool and actuating, fortunately, with bi-directional controls, uh moving turning the lock circuit off and then using it to control the motor back and forth. I've got it kind of in between gears right now, so to speak. Um the motor moves extremely fast, so like when you, you know, hit the button on the scan tool.

You can hear the motor, you know you know and move, and it would only take about a half a second. So i had to keep my hand right up here on the plugs. I only wanted it to move to clock it back just a little tiny bit, and so i would keep my hand up here on this plug and the second, you know i'd hit the button on scan tool. Then i'd just i'd pop the plug out.

Just a little bit just to make it quit moving pain right now, but let's see here so i want to get it started here a little bit. Then i'm going to take it because i know it started on the shaft, then we'll take run it one. One extreme to the next here: let's see so the scan tool we're in two wheel drive so technically so yeah our front axle is disengaged. We can spin that i don't have the drive shaft back in it.

Yet folks yeah get this down here where we can all see lighting socks in this place, so yeah, so we're in two wheel, drive front front: wheels, aren't moving pinion's free. We should be able to go to four high. Let's move our drive shaft, so it makes the shift okay. The shift is complete four high indicators for eye now this should be locked up yeah, so that's locked up now front wheels turn all right.

I don't know if i'll do four low without our foot on the brake yep there we go. I just had to turn the drive shaft and now she's in four low front. Axle should still be locked and it is okay. I'll go back to two-wheel drive.

I got ta turn it there you go. She just made the shift back to two wheel and now the front axle's unlocked okay, we're good. We did it right and there we are folks. So there's the encoder bar what a pain in the hoo-hoo to stick.

That thing up in there and, like i said it kind of sucks, we couldn't get the gasket that goes behind it. However, the o-rings that seal uh the shaft on it we're still in good shape. So i'm not super concerned um, but there it is. You know pain in the neck, probably been a little easier if we took drive shaft all the way out but uh.

I think we're in the home stretch now here baby. Well, we got no two wheel. Drive indicator must be. That must be.

The indicator. Light is out yeah because that works that works. Clearly it makes the shift which we saw underneath but dang it. We should have grabbed a stinking button while we were there, it's funny.

You know because that actually crossed my mind here we got a hookup all snuffy here, that's this little tube here for the side vent. I crossed my mind. I was like you know. These buttons are pretty failure prone.

It probably cost three dollars at the junkyard. I should have just grabbed it, but i'm like, ah whatever you know we didn't. Our diagnosis did not lead us to the button um. I probably could just go.

Ask the customer. We got a waiter he's a waiter today, so he's been waiting a little while um wrong wrong ones. Here, dude um, i could go ask him. If this two-wheel drive button has been out for a while.

Sometimes people don't even know you know because they just don't they don't notice, you just reach out and whack the button away. You go, there's that and these are for the headlight must be. Let me squeeze that tell you what before we give it the final push and click it in. There still got codes and everything, of course, except powertrain, because we had to clear him out, but i did save his engine light code, so we'll trick that down uh.

Let's see active test, i believe there is an indicator light test. There is okay, so let's uh just check real quick here, just to be certain all right, neutral indicator is on so that's the red dot right there. We know all the other indicators work, we're going to go two wheel high indicator and it is not on otherwise it'd be like right there, so that tells us that it either has burned out. Well, it's been in our care and control.

Two wheel, drive high indicator on off. Escape live data transfer case live, let's see. If it's supposed to be on see if it's commanding it, i assume it is dual drive high indicator light on so right there you can see it is supposed to be on and then, when we go to four wheel drive, can i reach the button? I don't know what i'm proving at this point. We know it all works.

Am i right? Okay, so it says it's in two wheel, we put in four wheel, two wheel, drive indicator, light off four indicator, light on and then back to two wheel yup. We should have grabbed him as thinking button, because that's all wrong with it. Now: oh yeah yeah, all right, we've got permission to click her back in here folks, i did talk to the fella who owns it and he did say that that's been kind of intermittent. He thought it was all part of the whole voodoo uh gm.

You know getting crazy on him. Uh type thing thought it was all related, because some days that sucker was on and some days it was off so get down um and push that make sure that bottom one's clicked in all the way here. He just thought it was all part of the same thing but uh. Clearly it's not, but he said not to worry because way.

Back in the day he um had another full drive problem, thought it was in the switch and actually has a brand new switch for it at home. So he'll uh pop that apart at some point there and uh put his switch in so so that worked out good, so he's he thought he had in his truck. He came out here and looked around a while for me didn't find it so it must be at home. Yeah should be sucker.

No more serious four-wheel drive light on two-two wan na run anybody over snow's melting. So that's good. We will go down to the south main auto snow test facility aka the east park. Oh, we got some virgin snow over here.

Hey look at that little little bump in the little two-wheel drive light. Just came back on fancy so technically a little number one in a chevy, never roll the window down. We should be a two-wheel drive. Okay, we are we'll click.

The four high button front axle should engage. Oh she's hooking out boys, she's hooking. Now back the neutral. We got the four low no way to prove that together and then give her some neck jerks there we go she's in four level.

Baby come on make this shift honey. Look at that. We even fixed this two-wheel drive light all right good deal. Now we will leave our test facility, that's uh snow, the town, scoops up the snow banks and moves them all here, so they should be here until about june ish.

There you have it folks and there you have that. That is your effort to fulcrum and load. All in one little box uh by that i mean it - replaced the simple mechanical lever uh that used to stick through our floor where we applied our own effort, and that's that so i don't know what's wrong with it. I don't know if these relays are what controlled that or if it was these transistors here or here hard to say, despite the large size of my nose, i still can't smell after having the rona uh.

Mrs always says this thing stinks smells like burnt toast and electrical stuff um. I don't know this. One up here has some funky color to it. But who knows? I don't know, i'm not an electrical wizard guy with that kind of stuff.

That's more big clive type things and then, of course, the transfer case shift motor which we tested that out proved. It was bad. I could see where a guy could get slit on this. If you were just you know, pulling codes and winging parts or pulling codes, and even let's say you had a meter and you checked, the resistance seemed like hey this lock circuit's open.

You know, we checked, it was over 10 000 ohms put a motor in it. Still doesn't work same coat, i don't know, what's wrong, stick another motor in it don't know. What's wrong, uh, let's tear the transfer case apart. I don't know how you arrive at that conclusion, but somehow it did unfortunately, for this fella.

He uh brought it here and we're able to figure it out, but uh. Unfortunately, for us we had a great place like wilbur's, you pulled a bath, not a sponsor, always fun going to the junkyard, more fun in the summertime and less fun when it's cold out but march is on its way. Folks - and i want you to march on your way down into that comment - section wait on there the questions, the comments, the concerns, the instinct, facebook and just my reviews. If i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching.