Hey there, viewers welcome back to the south main art channel, that's a 2015 charlotte. It's got the big one for it's a cruise, it's the lt and it's got some oil leaks and some coolant leaks uh. So these engines are pretty notorious for ppin all over the ground and uh. It's leaking coolant out of the left side.

Water outlet, housing there, it's all plastic, so we got new one of them from chevrolet uh. It's pee and oil. Out of the valve cover the variable timing. Variable the vtec solenoids are the variable cam timing.

Cam actuator solenoids are on the end of the head. It's leaking oil out of the turbo. It's leaking oil out of the oil pan. Somebody stripped out the drain plug in it.

We're going to do some preventative measures too. So, instead of doing just the valve cover gasket guy elected to do the whole valve cover because it's uh pretty notorious for that pcv built into the valve cover to fail. So we're gon na be changing that the pcv tube we're gon na put the cam timing solenoids in it, instead of just the o-rings and then we're going to replace the oil pan. Instead of you know, just drilling it and tapping it and putting the helicoil in it to you know to try to have a more proper repair now the turbo on it is pp and oil also not as bad and he elected to wait for that to completely Fail which you know, inevitably it will you get the dreaded p0 299 on these with the turbo under boost code and um, and i think that's it.

That'll get us started. So let's get motoring first thing. First, we'll remove this drain plug. It looks like it's one of those stripper plugs.

Oh, it's not very tight. You know that they put in at the express lube when they strip out the drain plugs uh. The thing is, though, it's going in all cattywampus. You probably can't tell in the video here, but it's in all cockeyed, so we're just gon na take and get rid of this thing.

If you guys ever seen these or not, you probably have, if you, if you work in a shop, you've, seen them and you cringe when you see one. So these have kind of a tapered thread and they've got a couple little reliefs. So when you start putting them in the aluminum, it just kind of you just kind of make your own threads they're kind of a one-time use. Throwaway type deal gets the guy out of the jiffy lube or out of your bay, and then you know you fix it at a later date or, however, it works out for you, i suppose so we have to remove the converter to get the pan off.

I don't you might be able to sneak it out, but these converters aren't horrible to remove so we're just going to do it. We've got the oxygen sensor here. I think it's the oxygen sensor in this car. It looks like an o2 sensor, not an afr.

We've got the band clamp here. I'm going to take this heat shield off this thing's still a little bit toasty. The girl just dropped it off not too long ago. We're going to get that off.

So we can get a little panther pee on the clamp. If we have to heat it up and then we're gon na try to drop the whole exhaust as in one piece, i think he can on these that way we don't have to fiddle with gaskets and crap. Underneath. Let me get some torx inverted torques.

There's the big turbo now the bolt for this uh v-clamp is down here at the bottom, we'll get a wrench or a socket. That's going to fit that! Rather those you got to be kind of careful with they'll uh they'll snap off on you pretty easy, and then we're going to get this connector onto the o2 sensor there. So i have kind of a funny connector you have to well, it's not funny not like haha funny, but you have to slide up on the little slide there and then to get it out from the bracket. Has these two little tabs on each side that i reached through with the pick this we're not going to reinstall until we change this water housing, because that's what it clicked into so we'll leave that out.

We'll just snip the wire down around here, sweet baby that one was actually not bad. Some of them get really bound up on there. Let's get it broke loose there jiggle this around, it's still a little toasty okay, i did not buy a new clamp. Foolishly, i'm going to spray a little panther pee on here and see if we can't get that to work loose because we've got to be able to get this clamp to open up just a whisker, more running out running out.

That's enough nice! The bolt came out. Hopefully, the threads in the bottom of that are still good, if not we'll have to order a new one from chevrolet for tomorrow, now we'll find out yeah. Sometimes the stainless steel stuff on the uh exhaust systems can be a real pain in the neck uh. We might have to give that a little thunk one of those to get that to crack loose and then we'll go underneath and pop the rest of the exhaust off so looks like it's missing a couple.

A couple of these plastic push tabs just for this little splash guard here sweet. So that's just the bracket off the side of the cat. Here i think there's one more on these cars. Isn't there yeah there's one that's up behind this converter um? Well, not behind it, but just a little bit more of a pisser to get to.

I think that's the only one or the only other one, rather fortunately, the uh oil cooler see the oil cooler up here behind the turbo that leaks oil, also, which uh. When i talk a customer when the turbo blows, that's when they're going to do the turbo and the oil cooler you'll see that once we get the cat out of here, so we're going to crack the exhaust here now. This holds the hangers. For this mid section of pipe, and even though the exhaust on this car is in pretty good shape, uh for new york, we don't want to mess with these connections uh.

You know here or up front or the flex pipe. So i'm hoping that if we release these, my hope is once we release these. That will allow us to move the system enough to get it unhooked and then just let it down we'll support it, and so we can do the pan and then just put it back up, be the least invasive way. It's gon na leave one of them in there kind of light for right now i don't know if i'll be able to wiggle it far enough or not, because we got ta clear this bracket um.

Typically, you unhook them right here at the bottom of the flange. We might ultimately have to but boy if i don't have to touch those bolts. That would make me happy if this bolt will come out easy that holds the bracket on then we'll be in good shape. There's two of them.

The one on the other side came loose, pretty easy and it feels like i can spin it out with my fingers because then we'll just take the whole bracket with it and i think we'll be okay. Yeah there we go, i'm gon na drop the bolt there. We go caught the boat, look at that and then we'll take the other one out. I'm gon na need a little extension.

We'll take the hole. Are you? Can you guys see up here where we're at a little bit see behind there, but you just have to trust me and then the bracket here should be loose now the oil return pipe for the turbo goes over this bracket, and it's plastics. Don't let this just when you take the bolt out, don't let that come down and bust that ear off they're, very, very chintzy, where that holds it all together, so be mindful of that. Now we need to unhook the rear o2, and then we can let the whole exhaust down.

I just kind of want to see how it hangs folks, because we don't necessarily need to take it all the way out. We just need access to the pan, which we have now so technically. If this is supported, we're not stressing out the flex joint, i think we're going to be okay and then we don't need anybody to help us. So this does loop up over the rear axle.

A lot of times the exhaust systems - you know, if they're under the axle or they're over it depend on where the muffler is. You can take it all out one piece this one, i think we're going to be okay, leaving it like this. If i don't feel comfortable with that, we can also tip it to the side and just rest it on a you know, muffler stand or, if you're doing this on the ground, you just bring it down. You know if the car's jacked up set this right on the ground, just be careful of this flex pipe, don't let this converter just dangle off that flex pipe.

We got to get our wires through that front o2 sensor. Well, that's stuck! Let me uh reach up there and get that there she goes so what i should have done is, i should have got the stand now we got ta yell, hey mrs oh big emergency and you need me lack of planning over there on the shelf there. Young lady, at the very top we grab one of them, uh green straps. For us, please, oh wow, okay! So what we need to do? Hopefully everybody can see we're gon na come up and over the frame right here, not really stupid plastic.

We're gon na come up over this front engine mount right here, bring it around town. This is really piss poor planting on my part, okay, keep her going all the way to there we're going all the way and boy yeah just hold the uh hold the exhaust. Here, if you wouldn't mind it's not hot, i would have told you if it was hot. You know um hold on real tight yeah when it said hold on tight, it's slippery.

No, that's it old girl we just needed to, and then we can kind of give it a little extra support for this twist. This room, oh you're, not a sailor. Are you no? No? Well that shifted sail honey, i'm not a sailor! There look at that! Well, that's it! That's it baby! That's all i needed you for that's all. You need me for and one other thing one other thing a couple.

Other things wow you're, embarrassing me. So what's up, we haven't seen you in a while i mean i have. I see every day i wake up next year, um, i'm gon na stay tonight, it's a little late, all night, all night, long baby. You know me what time is it six o'clock? What six o'clock are you making dinner at home? So we're going to take out the bolts from the pan to the bell housing here, there's another one up top here.

We don't doesn't go through the pan, but it goes on this little tin bracket. There we're going to take it off. Also, oh, it's a bigger size. It must be an actual bell.

Housing boat must be like an 18. wherever it was, it wasn't very tight at all that should release this. Like i said it's just a little tin bracket goes by the cv. Shaft here covers up that bit of the flywheel: that's in there crank sensors right there, and then we have all these inverted torques.

I don't think we have to pull the harmonic balancer, but we're gon na take a look. Let me get a inverted torque socket or at least take all them out. I imagine the pan is going to be glued on there, pretty good, the ultra gray, silicone man - that's some wicked stuff, so this is an er e10. All the bolts are out front side on the front, the sides and then the back.

You know what i think, there's a couple. Okay, it burned me in the past. I think it's a couple. Let me get a magnet there now.

I believe all of the bolts are out of it, so we can start crying on it get up here where there's a gap, hopefully, hopefully it wants to play nice. Oh look at that. She wants to play nice, that's the front. Half the magnet broke off the bottom of my light, so it's not near as handy as it was.

Oh there we go. Look at that. That's not too bad folks, not too bad at all there. She is she's off, not a lot of part numbers laying in the bottom of it.

So that's good! I'm gon na go stick this in the oil drain. Now it's just a matter of getting all the old silicone off, so i'm gon na go through with the flat carbide scraper and just get all that off now we're gon na leave the windage tray uh right in there. The silicone comes right up next to it, though, we're just gon na go through and scrape all that off, get it all cleaned up, ready for a new pan once that's all cleaned off. I just kind of want to experiment.

This is our new pan. It comes with the new plug i want to see before we silicone it up, which way it's got to go up in here. You know how do we, how do we get it in here without smearing off the silicone, so i kind of just like to test fit them. If you will so we'll get that in up behind the balancer and then funk yeah, we should be able to there's lots of room.

If we stick it in, let it kind of scrape up the back this way, yeah, we should be okay. Last thing you want to do is get it in there and find out that you know you smudged all your silicone off. It takes a while for this oil to start kind of oozing back out, so we're going to dry this up real good now up fr on the front of the engine uh where the oil pump is. They have a groove all the way around where the pickup goes make sure you take a little flat head pocket, screwdriver and clean all the silicone out of that hole and here's the you know the screen for the oil pickup and then it picks up all the Way down here in the bottom of the pan, so i'm going to clean this off with the brake parts cleaner and then a very thin film of ultra gray.

This is a machine surface. Both sides, so don't go gobbing a ton of silicone on this thing. It needs very little actually so we're going to be using the permatex. I believe the spermatex ultra gray max torque one of my favorite adhesives silicones to use this and the i'll tell you the other good stuff.

Well, there's several good ones: uh the toyota fi pg their form and place gaskets, pretty awesome. The motorcraft gray stuff is fantastic, so we're just going to put a real thin layer all the way around this baby, and then i usually just take my finger and i just spread it around. Like i say, this is going to be very thin just this way here i can make sure i have no gaps, there's no, you know little air pockets or anything. I guess imperfections in the silicone and i can make sure i cover the whole surface, but b be mindful not to go bananas around the oil pickup.

Last thing you want to do is have that jam, grate, full of silicone and starve the engine oil and make it explode. We've got a little bit of time, not a ton of time, but a little bit of time here, and this is not a bit of an angle, so this is the only edge that gets a little bit wet. Make sure you have this all 100 prepped scraped off and then go over it with some brake clean and a wire brush. You know just a wire toothbrush get all that silicone out of here.

It's quite a rough surface, so it should bond quite well. You know the machine marks on here i mean you can drag your finger across them, so it should make for a good bonding surface. Everything looks clean and dry, let's slip it up in there, stick a couple bolts in your pocket and remember which way you test it sort of spin those up now we're going to stick the ones in the transmission there and we're going to pull it. That way, just a little bit and then we're going to go through and just kind of snug.

These up, then, we'll get the actual legit torque process, but we want to make sure that the surface is tight and all our silicone kind of has made its bond and there that should hold like that. I'm going to start spinning all these in by hand now, like i say, just gingerly snug it up and then we'll get the process as far as what you know is proper to do. I guess so all the bolter, the install procedure is pretty straightforward. It tells you to tighten down all of the oil pan, bolts to 18 inch pounds and then torque down these bolts in the and then go back through and tighten these down to 89 inch pounds.

So i'm just gon na go through very lightly snug these because that's you know frankly, 18 inch pounds is just finger tight, then we'll go through and we'll snug these ones up and then back through and finish off the oil pan. So i think they only want these lightly tightened, so you can still pull it this way, if you have to there are some alignment pins that they sell from the oem that you know helps you in this process, but not really necessary. In my opinion, we got those then we're going to go back through and snug up the pants, some more and then we'll grab our torque wrench and go around all of these they're, not very tight. Like say, 89 inch phones.

I think it was, and these were like 40 40 - some 43, maybe depending if it was automatic or stick this automatic. They say you have less than 10 minutes once you apply the sealant all right. So now i'm pretty feel pretty confident that that is a slippery light uh. I feel pretty confident that we got a good seal on there.

We got good just a little bit of silicone coming out that oil. There don't worry about that trust me once this all dries we're going to be golden, i'm going to go through and get this all torqued on. So one thing you want to do just look along the edge of that pan. You see the little bit of silicone that hangs out.

That's good and you just kind of want to look all the way around and make sure that you have silicone protruding out. Of course, everything you can see. You can't see the back half now that coolant. That's leaking down there.

This coolant right here we're fixing that that's coming out of that upper water housing but, like i say, he's going to do this oil cooler at a separate date because that's leaking and then, of course, it's leaking out of the turbo. Well, i bet you dollars the doughnuts. I bet the inside of turbo's cracked right now, anyways see if we can, let me see it in there yep so yeah. The turbo's already got a crack in it right on the wastegate, so you guys can see that right.

There gm says that is normal uh, i'm here to tell you once that crack gets a little bit bigger, it's gon na start, throwing under boost codes, but uh really really common on these. Sometimes these things look like shattered glass on the inside that that crack will be all the way across the bottom and it'll crack all the way across the top of the housing over to the actuator or over to the rod that goes through for the wastegate, but Yeah that one's got a pretty pretty healthy crack in it. Hopefully, you guys can see that but uh super common on these cars and, like i say when he does the turbo as soon as that turbo finishes uh itself off once the turbo's off, then we'll do this whole mess right here. The oil filter, housing and uh cooler and such, but it looks like the oil pan, turned out pretty good um, i'm pretty happy with it.

We just got to get all this junk back up on there, all right, that's back in those brackets and then we'll put those put both of these on here both of these nuts and then i'm not going to tighten these down until we go up and get The upper clamp put back on the turbo, but we'll get these started here for the time being and then we'll put the bright brace there. So we'll leave that, like that and take this ratchet, strap off we'll get this brace back on underneath here eventually you'll give up on the oem bolt you replace it with a regular eight one, two five nut and bolt, and when we do the turbo, that's when We'll buy the new clamp, the new or the old bolt rather was just too galled up the threads on. I got freaked out so i just took that uh integrated nut off and then replaced it with a standard, uh bolt which would be totally fine and, like i say this clamp the sucky part. Is you can't get these clamps off easily without taking the turbo off? Because you can't sneak them past the end of the housing without taking this water pipe off, it's kind of a silly design you can, you can get them up here.

I've done them before you spread them way apart, and you know flip them around and pull them out the front, but that'll be completely fine for this vehicle. Let's throw the heat shield on it now, underneath we're going to leave all the plastic crap off it until tomorrow, i'm going to let this sit overnight and let that silicone dry or cure whatever you want to call it and then probably not going to show the Process on the valve cover, because i think we already have a video on that on chevy sonic uh from way back when i think we back him reworked here, she did one of those and i think showed how to do that. So i'll. Try to find that video and link that, because it was a video that showed the comment, failure on these when the pcb diaphragm ruptures and creates a lean code.

So i think in that video. If i remember correctly, she did a little lessons on her best understanding of fuel trends and shared that with you guys and then i do believe there was a video on how to replace it. So we're going to snug this up snug these up, i'm going to rerun the wire back up here for our o2 sensor there or afr, whichever it is, we got ta plug in the one underneath and then, like. I said we'll wait till tomorrow to fill it up with oil and then run it and verify that we have no leaks um.

One thing we've got to do, though one thing i want to do is i want to fix the coolant leaks and all that stuff before i get the engine all heated up, so we're going to take care of all of those tomorrow and then come back and Finish this, these connectors can be a real pain in the neck. There there's that, like, i said, we're not going to click that just yet we may even have to disconnect it tomorrow to get to what we have to over here. Okay, everything looks good up here. I'm gon na leave that off.

As a gentle reminder for the morning, the rear o2 sensor plugs in right above the cv, axle right there on that little bracket, just below the starter, and i think we're good. Despite some of the oil and crap that's on stuff. She's gon na smoke a little and i smudged off some of our perfect bead of silicone with the side of my hand, uh, not a not a big deal, it has nothing to do with how good it seals, so, i think we're gon na get it give It the benefit of the doubt and let it dry overnight or cure, whichever it does or whatever it does. We'll see you tomorrow.

Here we are the next day uh other parts and pieces that have been put on like we didn't do the valve cover uh video and the cam timing, solenoids uh, i also was in my groove, so i did a uh. Did the water outlet housing too, so that baby's on there that's not too difficult to do, remove the air pipes and and such so that's all back together now the new cam cover's on filled it up with oil. It's time to fire it up. It's full of coolant and uh, of course, the pcv hose, so it's fired up like i'm doing, one of them cold, start videos.

Of course we put a new uh oil filter in there also, but when he comes back to do the turbo and the oil cooler, it's going to need the you know: filter housing, gaskets and stuff there too, but this should resolve the majority of this fella's oil Leaks for now fans running there must have the defroster on. I took and cleaned off the oil around all the other stuff up here, we'll let her run we'll go underneath it as it warms up and we'll make sure that everything's high and dry make sure. I cool it, it's high and dry. I blew it all off the top of the there.

We should be in good shape. I did put that plastic thing back on there'll be some smoke as you start burning off here. I think everything looks pretty cool. I'm going to let it get uh good and warmed up.

I think we're going to be in good shape for the shape. We're in folks don't see any immediate issues. So that's good! Now we can let her warm up. I did double check that drain, plug probably triple checked it there.

You have it folks uh replacing the oil pan on your chevrolet with the big one for not a horribly difficult job to do at the end of the day, if you can leave all that exhaust stuff, it is a little fidgety trying to move that bracket now, If you're from an area where the bolts don't turn the dust, then you can simply unhook the converter or pre-plan for that. As i didn't uh, you know to get new nuts and the new gaskets and stuff, but typically, as a general rule, i'll try not to mess with those flanges just because once you touch them well now, you're buying the whole getting caboodle and nobody wants to buy A kitten or caboodle whatever a caboodle is uh. Anyhow that comment section head on down there do what you do the instinct, the facebook. You know where to find us folks and just from our viewers, if i can do it, thanks for watching.