Hey there viewers and welcome back to the south main hall channel sitting inside the 2012 chevrolet, it's 1500 uh, 5'3. More than likely uh the money light is on we're just letting it do a little scan here. She's got a hundred and some thousand probably one three. Six: six, six: three! That's how many miles around 136 and some change uh.

Apparently the guy told me that he's having problems with his auction sensor had it at other shops, they threw a bunch of parts at it and it still instantly throws uh the code. So therefore, it must be something something else, so we're gon na look and see uh and that's where we're just about ready here, we're gon na get the report skip the mileage and let's see what the survey says, what do we have heated auction sensor resistance bank? One sensor, one insufficient activity bank, one sensor, one an engine misfire well that doesn't seem too awful, uh too awful difficult if we have failed current current dtc current. So that's interesting, so problem with bank one sensor one. So it's gon na be driver side front sensor.

Let's go, i don't know if looking at any live data, it's gon na help us i'll. We can poke in there real quick start it up here and see what we have. So that's interesting bank one sensor, one, the heater is drawing current. I think two sensor, one is also drawing currents around about one amp.

So that's interesting, i think two sensor, one short to volt test. Okay, i think one sensor, one short to volt test, not run yet so that that's really kind of bizarre there. Heater command is only at three percent on bank one. Ninety two percent on bank two, so that's interesting and it's so it's at three percent, but it's drawing almost one amp, where the other one is at ninety two percent and drawing almost the same amount of current.

That tells me that there is probably very low resistance in one one in that whole circuit. That's that's interesting. That's interesting and i see the o2 is not really functioning as it should. So why are we looking at two and one because two doesn't have an issue right now? You know what i'm saying see if it's responsive at all, so even o2 sensor wise, it doesn't seem to be very responsive or it's very slow, probably because the heater is not working.

Let me sit here and pump the brake to make it force it into a lean condition, all right, so that leaned it right out yeah, not super happy with that. Anyhow. This is what i think we're concerned with the bank. One sensor, one heater command the amount of current that it's drawing versus what it's being commanded versus its companion here on the opposite bank and the fact that it hasn't run the short to volt test, let's uh and and we can suspect that it's probably not the Actual o2 sensor itself simply because he said it's new, but never ever assume, that's what new means or maybe never ever works.

I don't remember seriously. I'm thinking folks, i'm gon na roll the vehicle ahead pop. The hood here, obviously pick it up in the air. We're gon na unplug that o2 sensor visual inspection on the harness, not mess with much and then start it with unplugged.

If it's still drawn current, then we know there's a short somewhere up through the harness kind of my thought might be a far shot, but it's an easy test and should only take a minute bank two sensor, one way up there bank two sensor two driver side. There she is bank one sensor, one pretty common one to uh rub on the front drives yeah. Of course the sensor is new, there's the harness for it. Let's set the camera down and we can see bank two sensor, two, i'm sorry bank, one sensor, two so driver side rear that one is also new and you got to watch these ones folks, because these have a tendency see where that hits the frame right there.

They have a tendency, look at that, so these have a tendency to rub through on the frame like that one is but uh, it's not rubbed through the wires yet, but that's a pretty common rub spot on these chevrolets on the bank two side, our efforts are Gon na be focused over here on the bank one side, i'm gon na visual, inspect this, because, if somebody put a in it, they very well could have not put the harness back where it belongs. Something like that everything looks kind of like kind of like she's a virgin, but sometimes they lie to you folks. Sometimes they lie so i didn't see anything underneath up up above the training just like that inside the wires. Look like they come up.

You know up near the bell housing area - i'm not going to get back here and fiddle very much because, obviously, if there is a a wire, that's shorted, we don't want to unshort it. I see some things up here, not so much. Looking like a virgin see. It's stuff like this.

You want to look for folks where somebody has done. You know, power, steering, pump or something you got some hard pinchers. Some rubbers don't touch that. Don't touch it as much as you want to you look for areas of new tape.

You look for areas where the body shop guy's been there um. You know if uh, just like little subtle clues like oh, you see. None of these bolts that hold this fender on are painted, and then you know you come over here. You know you kind of look for similar things.

You know, has a hood been painted? Are we missing emissions labels? Can you tell you know, has there been body work on the fenders? Do you see kappa stickers? You know stuff like that? Is there the same amount of rust on one side as there is on the other? You know where harnesses run so just any place. Somebody could have had their fingers as far as just not putting a harness back where it belongs. You know now that the factory routing is always perfect, but a lot of times when i find rubbed through wires. It's you know, just simply human error.

Key back on back inside here, we'll come back in here. We'll go back here, go back to our oxygen sensor and we want to get that data again. We just want. We want the heater command for one one and two one, and then we want the amps.

We just i don't know if unplugging it's gon na screw it up. So that's interesting. It's still commanding it at three percent. Of course there is no current being drawn right now.

I wonder why it's not commanding it at a higher percentage. I want to see if we've set a different code, heater control circuit. So that's interesting! That's good! That's with unplugged! I am starting to wonder a little bit here. Folks, oh we're going to disregard the pl 300 for right now, um wow that escalated quickly come on baby um, i'm starting to doubt my all tell here a little bit.

I went into active test because i wanted to see if we could just turn on the o2 heaters and i went through several of these and it just it kicks me out almost immediately saying that my timer is up, which you know so i try to turn It on and then five seconds later i get a error indicating that you know the test has expired and clearly it's not even turning the test on regardless. If i shut the key off and wait - and you know this is common uh - typical gm uh - you know garbage here just so. I know we're not getting burned with wrong data that we're seeing i'm going to grab factory scan tool for the record tech 2. Oem scan tool for this actual genuine one same exact thing kicks out of the test, shows the percentage of all the other auction sensors at 90, whatever percent heater duty cycle control that one at three percent, and as soon as you try to turn the heater on With special functions, it doesn't do it even if you're looking at a good one.

So not a scan tool issue just wanted to be sure, there's a few things in this world folks that don't lie five-year-olds and yoga pants. There's a couple things that do lie: scan tools, service data politicians. So with that being said, we need to carry on our tests now. Uh assume what we're seeing is correct.

It's kind of bizarre um. One thing i want to know is: if we erase the codes uh, you know it's in a default strategy where it only gives it a certain percentage because of uh, because the code set uh, so we're gon na. Do that and then we're gon na go uh and do our regular circuit checks. So i hope that makes sense to you.

Sometimes scan tool functions are limited because the pcm is in some sort of you know, self-protect mode for lack of a better term. Won't let it do certain functions with certain codes being set. A lot of that info is in service data. The easy way to do it is we know we have a problem with bank one sensor, one we're going to go ahead and uh clear the codes and then we're gon na see if we have functions back if it responds any differently or if it's still kind Of stuck in this three percent duty cycle limbo.

Well, it appears to be able to see that circuit. I think we're being kind of foolish for not going just checking the new o2 sensor at this point you can see an open circuit very interesting. Let's go for it now the old ohm meter out here folks, what we're going to do. The o2 sensor is unplugged we're going to check the resistance of the heater so uh on the o2s.

I don't want to yank the wires down up there on the o2 sensor. It's going to be your two wires that are the same color in this case. They're two, i think two black wires get my hand up here. They are the two black wires.

Let me see if i can get my leads up here. You know what let me get uh a female probe. We can stick on there and then we just hook them right on our meter, we'll see what we have. There's one there's two.

As everybody says, 12.3 ohms, 12.2 ohms, so that's good, baby, yeah 100 duty cycle that would be about an amp at this temperature. So that's good! I'm going to assume that's good! That seems normal! Let's go here next! I brought us uh if i can find it somewhere, bro hold on fellas hold on. I brought us a test light because now we're going to see, i believe these chives have full time power here, which we think i think we know that we have so it's gon na be the pink wire on a chevrolet, very gingerly, probe the front touch around The body here somewhere as we should have and look at that so we've got light. We've got enough to light a quarter.

Amp test light, i'm kind of curious if we come across the other side of the heater circuit. So it's going to be the one right. Next to it should be this gray wire. Let me pop into the bi-directional test here to see if that has decided to work at this point, i'm gon na go active test.

I'm doing that hi baby we're gon na go to heater, we'll turn it on. Hey. Look at that it lights and that shuts off. So that's interesting folks, i knew now you wan na go inside huh, with our light bulb in there we're at a half an of hour.

It's going to be the end rush current on it, which i find is plausible, quite interesting here folks. Judging by that light folks, i would say that the three percent duty cycle is correct. It just bumped it up there a little bit. That's interesting! What it's doing! We see that reflected on a scan tool.

Okay, we can very interesting that we just saw that kind of fault it just boy. That's that's bizarre at a three percent duty cycle that that thing's drawing point six amps huh. I got ta think about this one man. I plug it in over on the passenger side, so bank two one and it behaves the same way so about a half an amp as you can see there, and then it fixes the duty cycle at the three percent, regardless of the load.

I even put in a 100 milliamp uh substituted load. It must be a default strategy, i'm not going to get too sidetracked for that, but the interesting part is: is it shows that heater circuit behaving the same way? I have to believe that the heater circuit on bank one is intact and functioning as it should. Oh miss o you just pretended right in the back. We go thinking about cleaning my filthy car.

I need a super hot camera woman. Do you know any? Oh, hey! Look there's one come on: that's the gold button right there you ready. Are you? Are you ready? I am so here's what i'm thinking folks. It appears that the o2 heater circuit functions.

We test it with substituted load on a known, good side and known bad side, and it seems to work. We also know that in the very beginning, when we looked at um, the o2 sensor, it didn't seem to be responsive. We pumped the brakes we got pump and pump and pump in to make a lean condition. We saw this half of the engine fall.

Lean o2 sensor went to zero, but we saw bank one sensor, one kind of stayed around 450 millivolts a long time ago. I should have looked at code set criteria, but i didn't, but i assume so what i want to know now is: can we take the o2 signal and check the rest of the wiring, so we have power there? We have uh, we have power for our heater. We have heater control now we need to know. Do we have sensor ground and sensor signal? We force that signal low.

We force the signal high. If so, at that point, i can only assume we got a bad o2 sensor come on over here. So this is. Oh you're gon na have to shut, never had a camera lady.

This is kind of fun. We've got our o2 diagram so right now we can see bank two sensor, one. It's functioning it's working like it. Should everybody over here they're happy they're having fun we're.

Switching bank one - currently, we still have it unplugged. So it's stuck at its default value of 450 millivolts over here we've got a wiring diagram. We have our power coming in. We have our heater control here, grey white, we know that's functioning or it appears to be.

Must be in some kind of default strategy being at three percent, so now we need to know. Do we have sensor ground tan wire? Do we have sensor signal the signal wire here purple with white? Can we take that purple white wire short at the ground, make this go to zero short it to power, make it go to 1.25 volts or whatever its maximum is. So that's what we're gon na try. So i'm gon na come up here.

I'm gon na! Do this without getting burned badly, we'll get our wire around here. You may or may not be able to see this missile, but you were my best hope of potentially seeing this okay, so we're gon na run through this real quick. I could be wrong, but uh. Here's our pink wire, very gingerly front pro now.

This here should light the light we touched something metal. So there we go that lights, the light we have power. We know that we have heater control, because when we probe into this, we can see that we have a very dim flashing light at our three percent duty cycle. Okay, so that tells me yeah! That's that's about right.

There fella uh real bad way to do this sensor ground. Is it working? It's tan, we're still hooked to power. Don't ever try this at home boom. Look at that lights that thing up like a mother, so that tells me that's good.

While we still have the test light in power, i'm going to short it across the signal wire and then mrs doe's going to look at our scan tool. We should be at one point whatever volts and we are so it drives it high. So it's maximum value that it can read 1.275 now, while she's still looking there, i'm gon na plug it, we go back to 450 and i'm gon na short it to a ground. It should go to zero and it goes to zero okay.

So now i'm going to plug the oxygen sensor back in way up top here come on baby. Let's see what happens, what a hit split screen we want uh. We need to get something we're still three percent. Commanded o2 heater is on uh.

Let's see we want bank one, one heater is drawing three quarters of an amp, but you can see our o2 just essentially flat line. So let's ditch this oops whoa, hey calm down. Let's look at one two, one two: are you getting all this missiles, though? Is it exciting? Is it i have no idea? What's going on? That's two one, one, two, okay, the band's running. I can tell you that let's let this little guy down, let's force a rich condition for saline condition, so this this o2 center right here is our upstream.

This is our downstream both on the same bank. Let's see, what's happening, stand out of the weight missus! No we're coming down, go ahead cut. Do you got a glare, uh, yeah too much? It's too much. You hold it.

So you don't get a glare, so bank, one sensor, one not being real, responsive, not doing what it's told these one of these uh. What we're gon na do is give it some of this a little bit of brake, clean, uh right down its breather, and we should wat these should peg right out 900 millivolts plus. So i'm gon na come in the intake manifold. We're gon na give it a little two.

Oh she probably doesn't like that. Does she how come it's not pegging out? How come bank two is not pegging out? Maybe i'm not getting enough in there. Oh yeah, there we go just had to get rid of a little more, so i'm spraying some brake clean in it and we can see we're coming up about 900 millivolts as predicted, but we can see on bank one. It's just she's that it's not working.

Now. It's gone right back lean, brake, cleaner is removed, plug this back in folks. This is where your back plate look at me folks, just because the o2 is new doesn't mean it's good. I feel in my heart and in my gut, which is getting bigger by the day, because my diet is poor, that we just simply have a bad o2 sensor.

I think we can prove this because i do believe that one day each man has something different. I believe that bank one and bank two use the same o2 sensor. Perhaps we can just do the old, swap tronics try agnostics as we like to call it and see. If does our problem change from bank one to bank two? I believe it will, if it doesn't, i'm going home so instead of swapping those around folks uh.

First of all, a big round of applause for mrs olsen being camera lady of the year uh and next i was gon na, say the o2 sensor. Instead of messing with the old one, that's rusty on this side and potentially being wrong uh, which i don't believe that we are ordered a new one from napper, not sponsoring us. We still have to pay for it. I've got a denzel it's coming up and i was correct.

They are right side to side, they are the same part number bank one and then the bank twos are the same. So you can interchange those if you wanted to try some diagnostics them around and then seeing if the problem follows it. However, we've had it running for a while. It's hotter in a banshee i'm gon na.

Let it cool down we're gon na go work on some more chevrolet's got a parking lot full of them today, all with lights on so that's fun. I did get sidetracked on this a little bit um. Looking at scan data wondering things there are things that you have to keep in mind that pcms do have like self-preservation default strategies. If they see circuit problems, stuff, isn't right, they'll shut things down uh, you know you get misfires boom they'll shut down, injectors they'll shut down coils, you know, especially when you start getting circuit codes.

If stuff seems like hey, this just isn't right. This is you know. Something's weird here it very well could be a default strategy. Put it in your pocket, don't forget about it and then you know just kind of move on to your process um.

You know. So that's where i got sidetracked a little bit. I think still could be very wrong and you know 100 incorrect and chasing around in a circle here, but it appears that we have a non-functioning o2 sensor, even if the heater wasn't working in that o2 sensor, just the o2 sensor was working by itself. The two wires we should still be able to force it rich should still be able to force it lean being that unplugged that goes to 450.

Millivolts tells me that the signal wire is not short of the power nor ground and that we could drive it high and drive it low uh. Using the test light uh tells me the wire's intact. The pcm can read it plus the ground is good. I think we have a bad o2 based on the data we collected here.

He comes folks. This is the ultimate and chevy thunder right here. Next door wait for it wait for it. He usually does not disappoint when this guy takes off.

Oh here we go here. We go that guy. Never lets me down all right enough screw around folks. Here we go uh fresh napper.

It's there, the old ones there fired it up got some data here. Oops appears to be working right off the get-go. So, there's that one we'll get the other bank here gone through done, the o2 heater learn reset. We can see bank one sensor.

One is now being commanded at 70 percent. Drawing about an amp. Our switching ratio is not quite like that of the bank. Two sensor.

One, however, we have to also remember that this is process data which sometimes isn't as fast as we hope it would be. Well, it never is rather, what's neat about the oem chrysler tool, it tells you what the refresh rate is or how fast it's actually updating the data. So we'll let things get heated up here. I just fired it up, so i might take it a minute to burn all the shipping go off.

It start working got ta, follow the facts. Folks, hey ms lowe. I can't show that i'm covering i'm blocking you, i'm blocking you there's too much. Hiney sticking out there what you got going on here, you're really scrubbing down huh from your filthy children, yeah um.

We were right by the way. What was that action sensor? Just like you thought? Oh yeah, so good job, hey you gon na scrub up the old jeep very soon. No, i just cleaned your truck. I know you're such a good wife and you make me dinner.

Look at the jeep. That's all mud, i'm doing sick stuff! Yeah! You clean it! You'll, look like a mall crawler poser, all right, thanks, michael! Let's go back inside here folks for a second, i want to show you something get my foot untwisted here. I want to show you so i'm going to pump the brake pedal. What i expect to see is, i expect to watch the o2 sensor drive low because we're going to create a lean condition because we're just making a big old vacuum because off engine's going to start loping here a little bit.

You see that so it went lean. Now, with the fuel trim being totally corrected, it's going to go rich for a while. That's a quick way to tell you know is my o2 sensor responsive. You can see the value, and now we got to wait for that fuel trim.

Correction again, you know if we had fuel trim on the screen, you'd see it start trimming trimming trimming, it's cutting it back like hey how come nothing's moving here and it takes it a little while to recover from a big vacuum leak like that and eventually here It'll start back into its cycle and there we go simple as that folks, just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. I think we've learned a few things uh a just because it parts new doesn't mean it's good and yes, the part i took out was a denzel same same number as what i put back in, and he put that in in an effort to correct this problem. So pretty deceiving if you know you're pulling codes, you're the advanced, auto, the guy, the parts counter says: hey, you know this code change this part, you put it in hey. I still got the code anyhow.

All we can do is follow the facts. It got dark in here real quick kind of kind of making it weird. Let's see if we can change that, we can't i'm not a videographer, but we hopefully learned a couple things: a stuff about default strategies b. Never trust your scan tool or politicians, but always trust, five-year-olds and yoga pants, because they don't lie um and don't get sidetracked.

If you see something that's weird now all the default strategies typically can be found in service data. You know under code set criteria. You know when, when this happens, let's say when this circuit code happens: when this o2 heater performance happens, the pcm does this, you know fixes the duty cycle at three percent or whatever you know whatever you're, seeing if it's kind of an anomaly and you kind of Get it to do it on the other side assume default strategy. You know it doesn't like your substituted load, whatever don't get too hung up on it, don't get stuck there just move on and follow your facts.

Do your circuit checks. You know we have power. We have control on the heater, it must be good. Do we have center ground? Yes, we do don't do it with a test light like i did, and b our c or d wherever we're at uh in this case is our signal wire grid? Can we drive it high drive it low? If we can, then we know our circuit's intact, all four wires.

That o2 sensor are good. They're there they're functioning, it is either a failed pcm. It can't process the data something's goofed up there or the component itself is bad, in which case we look compared upstream versus downstream we've seen it was completely unresponsive in independent of the heater circuit. That o2 sensor should work.

It should be a little slower, a little sluggish, but it should function. So therefore, i made the call on the o2 sensor and that's that we fixed it. That's a lot of rambling ramble down to that comment. Section ramble some comments off the keyboard.

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