Well, here we go folks, we're back on the caddy been offered for a little bit. We've got to uh carry on. We got to do some of our service work here, so we want some fluids changing this thing, so we're going to start right out here with the front diff, first and foremost before you drain. Something make sure you can get the fill hole opened because that sucks, when you can't we're going to let this pp here we're going to go hit the drain on the transfer case and then also the rear differential, get all that stuff drizzling out of there and All this fluid all over here is from the leaking hydro boost, which we have to change that.

Also it's that's pissing out of there pretty good, and it's got some coolant leaks too up on the heater core connections. We need to fix those. So this is your typical chevrolet front: diff fluid they're, always nasty and gray, and the biggest thing is you want to make sure the end of your magnet doesn't look like a giant porcupine, though this one has a few prickers on it: uh, not terrible, but uh. Pretty normal, i would say, anyhow we're gon na let this drain pull both these out set.

These aside, this stuff is thick, like molasses, so usually take quite a while for that to drizzle out and we'll go pop. The plug out of the transfer case. The transfer case just takes a standard 3 8 square, crack our drain loose here and again make sure the fill hole which somebody has been checking or playing with there. You can see they've got it being down in the case, pretty good.

You have to be careful with uh, you know pipe style plugs, especially on magnesium or aluminium. You can pretty easily crack the case and then the other thing with transportation too, i guess with any food, is make sure you have the correct fluid before you drain it out. You know, does it take atf? Does it take? You know special transfer case fluid. You know gm ran that auto track 2 stuff for quite a while i'll pull the drain on that she looks pretty dark and we'll also pull the fill hole.

Oh fella make sure you don't miss the bucket there. We go i'll. Let this sit here and drizzle here definitely dig a little mud out of the fill plug here. We're going to stick our 3 8 square in there remember every tool's got a hammer side and then make sure we get that baby loose.

No, we can so that's good. Take that out all the way we're gon na set that baby right there, so we don't lose it and we got ta pull the cover off this one, because putting the drain on it right here would have been way too easy. I think these are 13. Some of these, i think you have to wrench out.

Perhaps we'll see i'm going to go through, i'm going to crack them all loose, and i have to be careful some of these because they can have a little loctite on them and you might have to apply a little bit of heat. But this truck is in pretty good shape, rust, wise, which we're fortunate and then we're going to come through with a little air ratchet we'll zip all these out we'll get our bucket ready and then we'll crack the cover loose and let her drain. I left one bolt up in the top here, make sure it's speaker tight, that sucker came out quick it hard. Actually, i should probably run it out.

Let's stick it back in there, let's be on the safe side slot these lock tight bolts. There we go fan. Oh, of course i leave it the hardest one to get to, let's see so leave that in just right. This keeps the pan from hitting the bucket and splashing in the face.

Technically so make sure you got your bucket ready all right get behind there. Had my bucket ready take my own advice. Usually they crack a little bit harder than that, but the good news is the whole pan didn't come down and splashing our butt. That should come off there just like so so we'll let this drizzle for a little bit and then the magnet in here does not look like a porcupine.

So that's good! Now it's just a matter of putting things back together, folks, so we're going to put the drain plug back in the transfer case here i did put a little bit of liquid uh thread lock on it. So this is some permatex uh. They don't sponsor us. Uh seal and lock thread compound that'll.

Keep that baby from ppin keep it from rattling out of there, like i say, be careful when you're putting in the pipe plugs, because you can just keep going until something explodes and that's what you don't want and wipe that off there rag right here and then We're gon na fill this one. This one takes just standard atf we're going to be using some belveleen max life. I it is my habit when they use atf i'll use the same stuff that we're going to be using in the transmission. You know in case the seal goes and they start intermixing.

So now, just kind of my thoughts on that so we'll grab some of the fluid and get her filled up. We're gon na be using our little fluid transfer pump, which works quite well. Once you got your bucket, lined up i'll, put a link to this baby in the description this works on a standard standard, cordless drill, we're just gon na. Do this.

You just fill this one until it starts peeping out of the hole always misses the bucket there. We are folks let that achieve its level, let her drizzle there for a minute pull the fluid back out of our tube here kind of cool thing about this pump. You can just run and reverse and clear your tubes put it right back in the container, so we're going to take the other plug, i'm going to put a little bit of thread sealer on it and then we'll stick that one in there. I don't know if they have a torque spec on a pipe cell drain, plug or not.

I just like to use for common sense, a little short handle. That's what you can do if you can't, if you can't control yourself, choke up on the handle, your ratchet a little bit there, that should keep you in check and then we'll just spritz off the uh overflow here, just to be sure when we drive it we're Gon na take and just double check everything for leaks and dryness. Now we're going to take and clear out the hoses. We need to clean out the hoses on our fluid transfer pump here and then we're going to go right to the front differential and fill it up so same thing on front differential.

You know clean your plug up, get the porcupines off the magnet. Now these use a plastic washer, so you know, if you want to replace the washer, replace the bolt, you know replace the differential, whatever parts you want to change there, otherwise just put it back in torque it, the factory specs and all that stuff and then we'll Clean off the little drip there hanging on the bottom, you don't need pipe sealer on these or thread sealer make sure your top plug is already cleaned out, ready to go, and this takes some standard, run-of-the-mill 80w 90. brought to you by valvoline uh, not a sponsor At this point, it's a good time. If you wanted to change it to synthetic, you could go ahead and do so if you felt inclined to do that and that same thing we're going to use our fluid transfer pump and we're going to pump it up in there and uh same thing as the Transfer case you just you, do it until it peeps out the hole, i think the only one that's different is going to be the rear, diff, and you know the engine oil.

You never want to fill that until it comes out the cap there. She is fine. Gosh that was almost two quarts about one point: nine quarts so planning on having about two quarts around there. Let's just peeing out the hole, like i said, make sure you already got this plug all cleaned up and you know you got a new plug and new washer new wrench and a new car and all that stuff to put on there and then we'll take this Right down here move this jug out of the way, so we don't make a huge mess, we'll grab the torque wrench and then we're going to snug her up and then we'll get torque wrench we'll get all torqued factory specs, make sure that's all good again, we'll Clean everything off so we can identify any new leaks if there is any now the rear, diff we've got to go through and get all the rust and the crust outfits i'm just going to go along with the scraper here on the pickup trucks.

You can come up here with a whizzy wheel, but these ones - you don't just you just don't - have the room, so i like to cover up the differential with some rags, keep the junk from getting on it. You know we're just going to go around this until it gets clean same thing with the cover the cover i'll just take on the grinder and we'll just use the wire wheel on the grinder and get it cleaned up. Get everything ready to go together here. Like say, we clean this off on the wire wheel, just get all the junk off the magnet and then we're going to spray a little gasket adhesive on here.

Let that start tacking up when we finish cleaning off the rear deck and then we're going to use a paper gasket, so they have from the factory. If you don't have one, you can always silicon it or if you feel more comfortable with silicone, that works equally as well, permatex, not a sponsor. That's who makes this stuff conveniently under the label. I think spray tack, they call it.

They do make a gear. Lube specific silicone and a transmission fluid specific silicone if you're so inclined to go that route. I just like the way this stuff smells. If i'm being honest so yeah, we got a good coating on there.

We'll wait for that. To get real tacky, then we'll stick! The gasket on it and spray the other side gasket and stick her up there, yeah we'll just let that dry, then we'll just sneak it on up here, make sure you got it about where you want it when you stick around there, if that stuff is sticking, We're gon na stick our bolts in i did put a little bit of loctite on them a little bit of the purple. I think it is the 222 loctite. I think it's part number very low strength, loctite and get this thing slipped around here where we need it then we'll go through and just torque all these to factory specs, of course, and then get to filling it up once that is done, it just again becomes A matter of just filling it now this uses 75.98 full synthetic, can rear end on this chevrolet.

Now this one, you do not fill until it comes out the pp hole, so bear that in mind not to look at some stack on a quarter inch below the hole, something or other so we're gon na start putting some in and then periodically have to go Check and i'll go get the spec. I think it would have been easier just to put the hole at the spec, but now, according to service info 15 to 40 millimeters below the surface of the hole so 0.6 to 1.6 inches. And they tell you to check it with a pipe cleaner. Because you know what shop doesn't have a bunch of pipe cleaners laying around right yeah, so i just take a zip tie.

Bend it in your classic l shape come over here, stick her down in level with the hole see where we're at we're, not touching the dipstick. Yet so we're going to put in a little more, it doesn't seem like rocket surgery when we have such a big variance of where full is 0.6 to 1.6 inches seems kind of ridiculous. I believe we've achieved the level yep so right at the tip here. So about three quarters of an inch down, we want to be sure.

I guess we can add a bigger l into this. You can probably get out your tape measure, but when they have such a huge variance in what it's full, i guess the eyeballing is close, because you can see the difference between 15 and 40 millimeters but yeah there. We are so we're about about three quarters of an inch to that mark out more like 7 8 of an inch that was close. So that's two little marks past the three-quarter mark, so good enough, so free tip friday, for you put a little uh thread sealer on your plug.

Stick it in torque it to spec, hit it with some of the brake clean. So we can inspect for leaks. Try that off around there here comes the free tip everybody hang on. This is one me mom taught me you're gon na take your grease gun, give her one pump of grease right there in the middle smoosh it right in that leave it right flush.

Trust me. In a couple years, your mechanic will thank me, or at least the next time he checks it and he doesn't have to dig rust out of it, dig out a gob of grease with some dirt on it way easier uh at this point, what you would normally Do is take it for a shake rip. It around town bring it back in because kind of double check, stuff, uh, maybe not necessarily fluid levels, but because you know they're, full, just fluid leaks, make sure all your drain plugs are nice and sealed up and that's it uh. The only thing you've got left to do is head into that comment.

Sections the comments, the concerns - you know it all folks and just from our viewers. If i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching.