In this video I bring you along as I have a look at a 2010 Ford F350 4x4 with the big 5.4 that was towed in as a no start, no com. A few tests and a little poking around we figure why it won't run. -Enjoy!
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Hey there viewers and welcome back to the south plain auto channel, we're sitting outside in the 2010 ford f-350, the truck that built america if you're, not a chevy guy, it is, i got towed in from another shop, but evidently was there to do a state inspection Which they did slapped a sticker on it, she's got 50 some thousand miles, apparently uh brand new sticker. They did some brake work and then that was it. She no longer cranks um and there it is they towed it. Here.

I don't know any more than that. They said they tried to uh scan it to get the codes, and it just wouldn't talk with the pcm is what it sounded like. So i grabbed this little scan tool here. I've got it doing a system scan we're going to see if it tells us anything.

If we get some direction, i notice on the dash when i turn the key on the theft light flashes very quickly. The odometer lights up with just dashes, so it likely is a no communication situation, no communication situation. I can't make this stuff up folks, let's see here so open that up. I got some codes there in the uh wheel, drive abs.

We got a vin mismatch. Another! U code missing communication with the pcm junction box, missing communication with the instrument panel cluster says it can't talk to the pcm airbag module says it can't talk to the pcm. What else we got what's trailer brakes say trailer brake can't talk to the pcm wow, just as we suspected, and i don't see - i don't see the pcm on this list. It did not scan it.

So that tells me that it does not talk, and i don't know how accurate their topology is here, but we can see on the high speed. Can that pcm is not talking, but the trailer break is the airbag the instrument clutch abs. So probably not a networking issue would be my assumption. Um we're going to enter right in the pcm here to make sure it is a no-com.

The key is on currently and it is - and so it's a you know, no communication problem so they're on the right track. So let's come up with a plan here folks, so the plan here is we got out the old laptop. I brought this with me just in case uh. The think tool here does not have a web browser on it, which is slightly annoying for when you want to look up a few little things annoying like how dark this camera is um, so i'm gon na find powers and grounds for the pcm we're gon na Get a test light, we're gon na go out and do some uh poking and hoping we'll see where the pcm lives and uh.

If it's easily accessible, we'll we'll check it right. There obviously we'll see what fuses are associated with it perhaps just check. Those first would be the smartest thing to do and then go right for it powers, grounds and ability to communicate. Look at your classic scope on a rope uh one thing: i noticed folks walking around this little guy.

She used to be a town truck for a local municipality uh, so that explains why it's low mileage uh, but the thing to keep in mind with that. That might not sound. Like a you know, a big deal to a lot of people uh the municipality trucks around here - just get beat right to sugar um. You know they're, usually you know by the time they hit the auction.
They're half destroyed they've had snow plows on them, and you know every tom, dick and harry's had their little digits in there doing the wiring you know to add radios and stuff. So that's something to keep in mind. I printed this out what i think we need, and it appears that there's lots of grounds several powers like three powers, four powers and five grounds or so uh at the pcm uh. I did uh find two fuses that i see that seem to be associated with powering the pcms, we're going to check those to fuse 36 and view 76, and it says here: uh left rear engine compartment.

So it's this little guy back here. What's up missus, though question for somebody on the phone - oh it's nice and dusty in here folks: okay, let's answer miss zoe's question kind of tough recording outside folks, but it's a little bit easier than pulling this in if we don't have to 76 and 36.. So there's 36.: what's that little guy right there 76 is way down. How does this thing go? 76 is down here, so it must go like this.

So 76 appears to be of the 20 amp variety, oh yeah, and that's what it is right there. So that must be right. So, let's grab our little scope on the rope. 76 looks like hot at all times, perhaps negative ghost rider that one's dead that one lights up so our test lights good.

We got nothing on 76., neither side, that's kind of weird about 36 36 appears to be of the 10 amp variety down there, 10 amp up here, power and power, so we got power there, but we got no power on 76, which you guys will have to Play along because i can't see you uh so 76 gets its power from the pcm relay. Well, what in the thunder turns the pcm relay on, because if the pcm relay turns that on that's kind of stupid, if the pcm doesn't work, big dummy pcm relays powered off fuse number 50, which is a 30 amp. Let's check that one fuse 50., which appears to be good. Let me pop the top off it.

It's a uh jk's fuse come on mother love, it shut up, got it so, let's pop the lid off, so we can check it. It looks good so we're gon na slide that back on there, then we're gon na see if that little guy has power. Okay, she's got power on both pegs, so we have power coming into the relay, but i don't know what it takes to turn that pcm relay on or if that even really matters uh in this case yeah, because number 36 is one of the powers to the Pcm, how about this i got another one highlighted here. Let me just see where that one comes from 271, which is a 5 amp uh.

Where does that go? Let me just see, i should have took better notes. 71. 5. Amp must be this one right here and that one's got power.

So that's interesting, so i don't know if we're really on to something there, because it appears the power, that's not making it. There is one from the pcm relay which the pcm turns on. So that's kind of that's kind of something there so uh what i might try to do just for poop and laughter just power up that fuse to see if we can talk to the pcm, but that's a test like hook to power um. I grabbed our tool here, i'd it's kind of silly when it when you hit the button it erases everything you've had programmed in so it's kind of kind of a stupid feature on it.
Oh, i just heard it ding i'm going to hold the test light there. I'm just going to go generic obd2, we'll hit okay, we'll see if it uh can identify itself. So i'm just powering up the side. Oh yeah came up with a match already, so this is interesting.

So look at that. It's it uh readiness not complete yeah boom. Uh so yeah we can talk to it, pull the bin uh. Let me go get sma's most eligible bachelor, uh see if we can't start this thing up and get it inside while i hold this here hold on a second hey, jay, let's see if this pile of ford starts hey we see if this uh lease will start And run hey.

Look at that. All this guy needs is a test light, a jason and a fuse jumper or somehow okay. So we we've made progress uh. Thank you, the key's still on right! That's good! Thank you! Yeah! That's fine, uh! So that's interesting folks.

I almost half didn't expect it to fire right up right there um what we need to do so, the wires that we jumped or the wire that we jumped the fuse that we jumped is the output of the pcm relay. So when the pcm relay is on. But uh, let's see here, i'm gon na find it so when this pcm relay is on it powers up all of these fuses here um, so all i did is whichever fuse we were after a few 76 is 20 amp. We took our powered test light and we hooked it to it.

You know, therefore providing power which you know feeds the pcm. We know that the 50 amp the 50 amp fuse that feeds the pcm power relay is good. We check or the 30 yeah fuse number 50. The 30 amp is good that feeds that power relay um.

What i think i would like to try is we're going to find the pcm relay uh. I don't know why the pcm relay isn't turning on uh. These are not labeled. These are just labeled one, two three.

So let's uh grab our computer. Let's find the pcm relay, let's pull it out and let's check uh to see what we have at the relay. Do we have the two powers, so we should have power on 85 and 30 and then are we getting the grounding command from the pcm to turn it on and if we're not do we have a broken wire, or am i missing the step of the process Here, as far as what it takes to turn it on uh, both are potential uh. It says this one here in the bottom left by this freaking bracket.

Um, let's see if we can't uh get it up on out of there come on baby. I feel like an idiot come on all right. We got ta get some pliers, we're back stupid cars, louise, okay, there's our relay uh. What do we got? 30, 85 and 30 right, 85 and 30 should have power and number 85 is over.
Here we have power. Number 30 is over. Here we have power and then who's got my ground 86. Let's switch our test light, oh yeah hold on folks we're going we're switching our test.

Light to battery plus bear with me, okay battery plus, technically anything to touch, should light up, and it does. What are we looking for? This is a big guy 86 over here, okay, so the relay's not even being commanded on otherwise. This test light would light right. That is true eric, so this is not being commanded on so piece of cake.

I tell you what we need to figure out. Why? Why are you not being turned on? Let me go get a relay jumper, so we can just jump our wire to it. We can drive this truck around inside and then i'm gon na do a little bit of research as far as what does it take to turn this little guy on now. Should we still go back to the pcm powers, grounds um, because something has to turn the pcm on to turn this on and that's kind of where i'm at or what i'm thinking so yeah? Let's get a relay jumper, so we can jumper this turn it on and then get our truck inside.

So i'm just going to use uh just a relay bypass. It's turned off right now, we're just going to very gingerly. Stick it in there because we don't want to get stuck so we turn it on. We can hear the throttle body and all that junk turned on.

So, let's take all of our junk. Put it in our trunk set that down right here on the clipboard, we'll take our scan tool, we're gon na fire, this pig up we're gon na get it out of the sunshine, because i'm not a mobile tech. I can't do this crap. However, we will give a shout out to our mobile tech, guys out there uh doing this outside every day at different shops.

I couldn't do it. I've been too spoiled by having all my stuff in the shop guys. I think i was like ivan and keith perkins over at l1. Auto diagnostics, of course, ivan from pine hollow.

You guys know him brian mann, from hands-on auto training. I believe it is - and you know keith defazio with running the staten island, express back in the day when he was doing that corey over at sna, all of the mobile guys, even all the ones i forgot. I don't know how they do it, but they do a lot of mobile programming and stuff, but i don't know i went down and hung out with keith quite a few times. It's not my bag of chips, because all you're working on is absolute piles of crap.

All day long everybody else's problems. That's i guess that's kind of what i do here but come to think of it, but you know what i mean um. At least i get some breaks here in between the ones where everybody's been touching, so it still starts and runs famous last words, negative ghost rider, maybe because i got to shut it off and then back on is my assumption. Never fear! Folks, it's back running again.

Uh, so i think it's just a sequence of events of you know, shutting it off with the pcm relay still powered up so not to worry there uh, while we're sitting right here in front of shop. I'm gon na take a look up, uh some information here and see what i can find and relay that information back to you. So before i start looking stuff up, i just wanted to see how everybody's feeling now - and it appears that you know once we clear all the old uh no-com codes out of it - that we're left with two codes: uh, our classic p1000s and our monitors are not Complete and then you know something going on with transfer case circuit, which i see it sounds like it kicks in and out light lights up on a dash. So with this bypass it seems to be happy.
So that's also something uh worthy to know. So, instead of digging through a bunch of service data folks, i tapped into connector b, pin 37 wrong with the white stripe. That's going to be the control for that ptm relay and i've got us a test light put the battery positive. So i'm thinking, if we probe this when we turn that key on, if the pcm is good, it'll light up, if it doesn't lay that up, then i'm gon na have to go back with our plan.

We just stated where we looked from service data and see what it takes to turn it on, but let's go flick the key on here, oops right now the key is on while being jiggered. Look at that she lit up. So you know what that tells us. We have to 100 percent, have a broken wire and it has to be broken.

It cannot be shorted um, it has to be broke and that lights up. So the next million dollar question, or i guess to prove this theory. We could just run a jumper away from here to the relay and it should turn itself on. I tagged the jumper wire in there.

I took our test light hooked it to battery negative and i put a relay extension on that sucker and then we'll have to see which one's the pin that turns it on. Oh, it must be this one here. We got dim test light and i hear it clicking so we'll let that go we'll hook our jumper wire to it. I guess it didn't.

I don't want it to short out on the other one. So that's hooked up to that. So technically, if we get rid of this now, i should be able to start and stop with the key as designed. Let me just set this stuff down here.

The og boxer just fell, so i'm gon na finish. My projects here keys on so i could click yeah oops. Let me shut it off because it might have screwed up from clicking it on and off so much yeah yeah. It doesn't like to be taken out of sequence.

Uh wait a minute! This guy told me. I had fifty thousand i seen a hundred and something 28. live liar. Anyhow, that's that so a 100 broken wire.

No questions asked folks awesome. We don't want to lose that so now what folks um we can leave it just like this and send it on its way. Ah crapola, i hate doing wire overlays just because wherever this sucker is broke, there's bound to be more stuff, but, like i say, this truck is rotted um uh, yeah yeah. I did a visual inspection across that whole harness from that pcm all the way over.
Although there are a multitude of rub spots, i didn't see anything that was green, that pertained to the wire that we were after a lot of green wires. Coming up to looks like purge solenoid, and you know a ton of other rub spots. Uh extremely piss-poor made truck, who would voluntarily work on these things every day i don't know uh i mean just like say just the amount of rub spots and stuff on this. Harness is just baffling to me and i'm not talking.

You know the aftermarket junk, but anyways i was able to get this box up and out lots of swearing. I muthered up this thing all the way to the top to get it out, because this truck is super rotted. All i want to do is be able to get in here and bypass it and or find the corrosion in the box here. So i'm going to try to get this bottom off without too many casualties.

I was quite a while getting this out folks, the wire uh for the main power feeds way in the back that nut was rotted right off. I was able to get a twist socket on it um, but i'm going to work at getting this opened up. Let's see what we can find, i go get a couple more pocket, screwdrivers, let's see it's this relay down here, the one that we have out. So, let's see if we can just twist this around brown white.

Oh josh, you give me a pair of side cutters. Please um there's a zip tie and i want to get this tray out of the way because i see uh what i see down here. I see an empty pin. I don't know what it is, but it looks too far away to be what we need, but it does look pretty crappy and crusty down here.

Thank you. Do you need my help? Yeah yeah, okay, i'll, be just a. We got minute broken wire here. So there's a zip tie on that that takes the bottom cover off right, full dust and dirt uh.

Let's see we were down on this relay right here: brown white. I don't know what there's your broken wire pallet, a new visual inspection. Wouldn't let us down so yeah there's our broken wire brown with white uh rotted right out of the bottom of the fuse box. This jumper wire that goes over to the other fuses is all looking pretty rough.

This whole bottom of this fuse box is looking pretty rough um. I think what i'm going to like to do. I don't know yet i'm going to walk away from it because i'm a little bit hot. So here's what we're doing folks uh i just popped.

The terminal out terminal itself is clean um, you know. Obviously i don't have a new terminal, but i just wrapped the wire all the way around it cut the corroded part off and soldered it to it. The fact of the matter is this: thing's, pretty crusty all across the back, we're going to try to leave sleeping dogs live uh, we're gon na click this back up in where it belongs. Hopefully, if the clicker still clicks, let me get a pocket screwdriver here.
So now that baby's up in there we'll get everything snapped back together, the only thing we can really do at this point is just because of the amounts of corrosion here, we'll just blast it with fluid film and i'll. Just let them know uh, you know. What's going on here and what we see and what the fix is, which you know technically, is prohibitive on this vehicle. You know at this point you would just ship can the whole truck because putting you know a fuse box and a wiring harness on it uh.

As rotted as it is would be, you know absolutely ridiculous uh to do so, and then this harness also goes inside. So it would just be uh absolutely pointless to try to you know, source the fuse box and actually fix it uh properly. So just like say mostly given the overall condition of the truck and just how severely rotted it is so our fix, i think, is good for what we're working with i'm gon na fluid film it stuff it back together and have a nice day. I got her back down in there folks um sprayed it clicked it stuck it in there put the pcm connector back together, just hooked, the battery back up uh.

Of course i fixed my pokey pokey. I did technically this junker should run now. I haven't started it yet come on baby just run for me hallelujah we are the d-u-n done so we'll leave it at that folks, uh sorry to be. I want to cry baby pissy pants towards the end and i don't work on ford's a lot, but when i do i'm just pissed off the whole time, uh take my hat off, not for you, but for ford tech, mackie loco, the ford guy on the youtube Brian uh, to choose to work on these piles of every single day.

I salute you, man, i don't know how you do it um. These are probably my least favorite brand in the domestic line to work on uh, not sure how good they are. As far as a truck a lot of municipalities have them and stuff, so i just assume that is because they're, the lowest bid you know cheapest to buy on state bid, because that's usually what they buy is just the cheapest, not necessarily the best or not. Necessarily the one that fulfills a purpose but the cheapest, and you can't blame them uh and i could blame you if you didn't go in that comment section to leave your questions, your comments, your concerns, uh, be sure to hate on me for hating on boards and Chevys and dodges and every other car for that matter, because they're all junk and just remember viewers, if i can do it, you can do it thanks for watching.


By EricO

14 thoughts on “Ford F-350: No Start, No Communication”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dependable Auto Truck says:

    i always liked working on dodge until they became like all the rest junk you would think that auto companies were in the wiring business and didn't have any customers so they started building cars to get rid of the wire. its like the first hondas i always said they were in the hose business and went under so opened a car mfg to get rid of all the hoses they had

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robert Britton says:

    I was a Ford tech back in the day. When I would work on a GM product, (we worked on everything) I would curse GM engineers the whole time because they built their cars and trucks with the repair technicians. NOT in mind. Hated them. The reason you don't work on many is because they don't break down as often as Chebys even though Ford sales a lot more.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Upallnight says:

    Lot of municipalities have a โ€œBuy Americaโ€œ clause in their contract so even though a Ford may be built in Mexico or Canada the dealer can bid on the contract whereas a Toyota or Honda maybe built in America the company is consider foreign so they are not considered.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars No Name says:

    Again, why you choose not to use power probe tools is beyond me. They have a wire tracer. Simply disconnect harness. Unseat wire. Attach tool and chase it. Yo already use Mitchel on Demand and it shows you where the wire runs

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars No Name says:

    Working on the same car over and over is easy. They tend to have the same issues. Rarely is something new going to come up. I would imagine many would rather work on 1 model rather than many. When you work on many, you have to remember or try and solve an u known issue.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars superdupergrover says:

    Not relevant in this case, but if your scan tool shows no codes, no communication, nothing , check the fuses. Often (not always) it's the accessory/lighter fuse that powers the OBDII port.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robert Dentler says:

    It appears from watching multiple episodes that nearly every make turns into a pos rather quickly in your particular environment… makes for steady constant work though, as long as someone else's is doing it:-o. good job as always, thanks for sharing!

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Adam Kane says:

    I've been told that most of the municipalities around here (lower Michigan) use Ford trucks because the aftermarket/outfitter options are better for Fords than the other brands. Rams actually tend to come in cheapest of the three, but a couple fleet mechanics have told me that they they statistically have more expensive repairs more often than Ford and GM.

    Between the heavy abuse they see and the absolutely insane idle time… And Michigan winters, they all start to fall apart long before any typical consumer-owned truck would regardless of brand.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars JT Jones says:

    I love old Ford stuff, like from the 60's and 70's. Even some of the 80's stuff up to the Last gen Fox body stuff. But like you Eric, I can't stand this later model Ford stuff. It's all junk, I mean dang they went downhill in a big way. Especially the trucks, I absolutely cannot stand working on Ford's stuff, cursing up a storm the whole time and asking, "why Ford, why would you do something this way". I do think the Coyote motors are pretty good by themselves, and the 3.5 engine is ok. But the 5.0 in a truck is an absolute nightmare, and the Mustang also for that matter. The coyote engine is so big and bulky and wide, there is not room for anything. I had to change an oil sending unit on an F150 recently, and if I had a swear jar it would be overflowing that day.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars TheKajunkat says:

    I've only worked on a couple of friend's ford products in the last decade or so but every time they are the most wrench throwing, blasphemy inducing pieces of junk I have ever encountered. So cheaply built and overly complicated to do the simplest things, especially the F250 I worked on last year. I go back to my hondoos and my ty-yoters and pat them on the hood and say "good dog".

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Oldold Pilgrim says:

    I'm trying to relocate the video where Eric went out to work on his brother's truck. He spent a long time on country roads and explained how they were often sprayed with salt solution in summer to keep dust down. Could someone please give me the title or a link?

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Nun Ya says:

    Maybe one of these days you could do a comparison of the different scan tools you have and use. It would be nice to know what your experiences have been with the different brands and models. I'm sure it would help people to make a more informed decision. Thanks.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars T Hart says:

    Hey Eric! Awesome video! I'm an entry-level technician. Been doing it a year.
    I'm curious- when you applied 12 volts through that fuse to the PCM how does it not damage the PCM? Did the voltage pass through a resistor? Thank you

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Good Old Doug says:

    I did some time at a Ford dealership in school and they actually have a term for what happened here: "Canadian Corrosion". I saw it in a Fiesta that needed a whole new fusebox and harness, and then it happened to my old Fiesta right as I was selling it off. Almost every last fuse and relay was seized in place and some started falling apart from the rot.

    Thankfully, it's a warranty repair on the 2011-2012 Ford Fiestas.

    Also, I recently had to pop the top off the fusebox in a 2017 Escape and my God was it ever friggin' awful. I ended up snapping the stupid little lever you're supposed to just lift to release the catch. It didn't release the catch until I forced the remaining nub to finally move while prying on the lid at the same time. Why make the lever out of almost paper-thin plastic? Why even have a stupid lever all the way at the back? Because Ford.

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